69 flatback rebuild

[slvrlng]

Matt, fill the original stringers then run a couple of layers of 1708 or 1808 biax across the fill holes. Then epoxy strips of coosa (or whatever you decide) on top of the original stringers. Then lay your sole on top. This is what I'm going to do on the 19-6. You can use plywood if you choose. Just seal it well. Epoxy excels at this as it has a secondary bond that poly doesn't.
If you don't think its high enough add another layer.

I agree with Fitz that the new foams are much, much better than the original.The new ones are closed cell and the old ones are open cell.

[Capt Matt]

Its done:  ripped all the stringers out. Have a little grinding to do but one more day and I should be able to get the inside sandblasted and be ready to start laying glass. There was so much wet foam under the stringers that i would have never been able to get out if I would have left them in. After reading so much about foam filled I'm over foam period. I most have removed 1200# plus of wet foam. The stringers came out easy with very few cuts as the tabs ripped right off the floor.
With how many hours I put on my boat I'm going to feel much better when she is in the water with brand new stringers and not a single piece of wood in the whole boat. After the transom comes out there will only be about 300 pounds of original boat left.
Will post some more pictures soon
matt

[LilRichard]

If you have them all out, I *highly* recommend adding some new glass in strategic areas - specifically the chines and keel.  I found my glass was think there - and was starting to show some wear.  

I added three layers of 1808 in inreasing widths on my chines... they are stiff.  I did this because I saw James Cline's rebuild in person, and he showed me where his chines were flexing, and stress cracking some.

[gran398]

Good advice. Good build.

[Capt Matt]

Took out the transom out last night, only some minor grinding left. The I'm going to have the inside sandblasted to give me a great surface to glass to. Amazing how strong that 41yr old transom was. Three sheets of marine ply glassed together, it must weigh almost 200 pounds. Anyone want it before I dump it   lol
 Starting to put my materials list together.
A piece of 2 inch coosa board blue water 26 will be first to make the new transom.
Below is the picture of the stripped boat or at least what is left of her.

Matt

http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/zz28 ... C00887.jpg

[dirtwheelsfl]

man that looks familiar. get a floor chisel and smack all that loose crap outta there, it saved me alot of grinding...

[LilRichard]

FYI, someone else told me about sandblasting the inside, but I am not sure (not saying this is a fact) that you can glass to a sandblasted surface.  Sandblasting will clean a lot of stuff up, but personally I would still grind it for best adhesion...

[Capt Matt]

Had the inside of the boat and the underside of the cap sandblasted today. Makes that 41yr old glass look brand new. Did get the template made for the full transom. I've been really busy running charters and have had no time to work on the boat. My first day off I'm going to buy materials and start putting her back together.
More pictures to follow soon. What a great resource this site is.
Thanks for the input everyone and I'm sure I will have lots more questions

Capt matt

[222 ccp dgraf]

nice build, looks all to familiar. I'm doing a 222 ccp. I ground my whole inside bottom and then sandblasted the hard to reach inside corners. Glass does not blast easy it is very hard, I tried many medias and found that the cheap play sand worked best. Took way longer to get the sand out then to blast it. Prep all your areas with acetone in a spray bottle then whip it up with a clean rag and you will be fine. Nice work.

[Capt Matt]

Transom is in. Check it out. Triple tabbed. I raised the middle of the transom 3inches to give it that classic curve.
The company I had sandblast the boat did a awesome job, and the fresh glass makes laminating easy and forever. The inside of the boat looks like brand new glass.
Next I'm going to redo the cap, removing wood from the very front and replacing it with some kind of composite, probably a piece of the coosa I had left from my transom. This will be a wood free boat.
Feels good to be putting it back together.
Anyone have any thoughts on tying the cap into the stern cap? Don't know if I should continue the lip on the cap or shave it down and make the stern cap flat.  I'm gonna make it 18 inches wide so my cabinet is big enough for hydraulic pump, oil tank, washdown pump, battery switch etc.
Capt Matt

http://s836.photobucket.com/albums/zz28 ... C00927.jpg

http://s836.photobucket.com/albums/zz28 ... C00929.jpg

[LilRichard]

The wider the better in the rear, because remember it tapers down (due to slant of transom) as you get closer to the floor / sole.

I did not continue the cap rail around, only because I dive out of the boat and wanted a flat surface to put my gear on, drag tanks over, etc.  

Looking good, keep up the momentum!

[Capt Matt]

Asking for opinions!!!
what composite material  would be best to build stringers out of? I've been looking at closed cell foam maybe 2 or 3 inches wide or even 3/4 inch bluewater coosa board doubled up.

 The foam looks like it would be easier to cut and shape to the hull than the coosa and is probably lighter

I'm going to run 4 stringers wide and bulkbeads to make a grid system.

Any info is much appreiciated
Capt Matt

[dirtwheelsfl]

i dont know that 4 stringers is the way to go, boat seems kind of narrow for that. id go with 2 as wide as your gas tank. i think mine are 28" apart on center. you can see how i did it on my rebuild. 2 sheets of 1" corecell was enough to do stringers and bulkheads and have some leftover.

[LilRichard]

Listen to DW, he speaks the truth.

[Capt Matt]

Here is the stringer plan: I'm going to do 2 stringers wide made out of 1 inch wide coosa board then one stinger in the keel coming back from the bow to the fuel tank bulkhead. Have been working on the cap the last week and reglassed the whole inside of the boat with 1708. Every afternoon I want to glass it rains Flipped the cap and foamed in the voids, sanded it smooth and ran biaxle. It really stiffened it up.  Used my trimmings from the 11/2 inch coosa transom under the front of the bow cap to mount my cleat and make it nice and solid to stand on. Plan on glassing the cap to the hull inside and out in the next few days. Every boat I have every owned the cap has bounced loose when only screwed together. I will put more hours on this boat once she is done in one year than she had in her first 41 years. Pic's posted soon.
Thanks for all your input everyone
Matt