Location of 175 Osprey bilge pump

[Robob]

I have 3 bilge pumps and 3 access hatches in the floor and have identified the one for the bait well by the through hull in the stern and it works fine.

I know the one for the fish box works because it drained wash water overboard. The are all very quiet. I think it's under the console and the main pump is under the seat. I'd like to be sure.

The boat is out of the water on a cradle. Is there a way I can test the main pump other than putting the plug in and running the hose into the bilge?

Thank you,

Bob on Tampa Bay :)

[Robob]

Bump:-)

[flounderpounder225]

Rob,
On my 245 Osprey, I guess I have the same set up, one pump for the fishbox, one for the livewell/washdown system, and the bilge pump.  Usually the main bilge pump is located in the aft portion of the hull.  If I open my access hatch in the stern where the batteries were, and the oil tank, it is down below that area, pretty far down, on my 245 I can just touch it if I remove the frame of the hatch, it gives you more room to get your upper body in there.  As far as testing it, your bilge switch should have two positions, auto and manual on.  You may have corroded wiring, a bad float switch etc.... try and run the pump with the bilge switch manually, if nothing, the next step is to locate the pump down there, chase the wires up to where you can stick them with a test light or meter, start at the breaker/switch, and see if the pump is getting power, if it is, then it's replacement time.  If you replace it with the same model like I did ( a Rule) you might not have to unscrew the base of the pump from the hull, most of the rules just twist to unlock the pump from the strainer base.  Do your wiring obove board, and reach in and lock the new pump to the old strainer base.  Good luck.
Marc

[seabob4]

Bob,
Now, the 175 wasn't my forte, but I do know a little about her.  The 3 pumps you refer to are the livewell pump, the fishbox pump, and the bilge pump.  Now the bilge pump should be located directly below the pie plate forward of the motor.  The float switch should be adjacent to it.  The float has a test lever on it.  Push down or rotate (sorry, can't remember, but I think we were using the blue "Sure-Bail" floats at the time) the lever, and it should turn your pump on.  Also you can turn the pump on manually from the helm.

The livewell pump should also be in this same general area, attached to the pick-up in the bottom of the hull, with a hose that runs forward and feeds the livewell in front of your console.  Turn them on one at a time and put your ear next to the pie opening, you should hear them.  It won't hurt is they are run dry...

I'm assuming your fishbox pump is attached directly to the fishbox drain fitting, although I can't say for certainty.

Hope this helps...

[flounderpounder225]

Bob, when I replaced my float switch it was a blue sure bail...

[seabob4]

Marc,
We used those for a long time...

I remember we got a bad batch in, you don't know they don't work until you do a systems check on the completed boat.  MAN, did I have some float replacing to do!

[Robob]

It helps a ton:-)

I found the bait well pump and water intake through hull fitting at the hatch by the transom and didn't think to look for another, the regular bilge pump. It makes sense that it would be at the stern.

I'll fish around some more back there.

Thanks a bunch,

Bob on Tampa Bay

[Robob]

Okay, I found the bilge pump right where you said it was, under the hatch near the transom. As you suggested, I found it by turning it on and listening.

Now the problem is that it won't turn off. I put the hose in there and it pumps water like a gusher.

It's a Rule pump and the float turns about 90 degrees but doesn't seem to have any effect on the pump, it still runs with the instrument panel switch off.

I disconnected the battery and will tackle the switch tomorrow morning.

In your experience, is it more likely that the instrument panel switch is bad or the float switch on the pump?

Thanks,

Bob on Tampa Bay

[flounderpounder225]

I'm betting on the float switch has shorted contacts and is not opening.  If you can get to the wires coming out of the float switch, cut them near the butt connectors that may already be there if it has been replaced before.  Strip some insulation off the switch wires, take an Ohm meter and connect it between the 2 wires coming from the float switch.  Now, move the float switch up and down slowly manually, the meter should indicate an open or infinite resistance with the float in the down position, and should show full continuity or the switch being closed as you move the float upwards.  If this is good, put new heat shrinkable butt connectors back on, you can buy them at autozone or west marine.  Others may have a different way to test it out, this is just the way I would proceed.  Good luck
Marc

[seabob4]

Marc, you're correct.  If you're showing continuity with the switch in the "off" position, time for a new one...

[Robob]

Thanks for the advice.

I'm having the float switch replaced.

Bob on Tampa Bay