Mounting Leaning post to floor

[South Bay]

I'm looking for suggestions on how to better anchor my new leaning post to the floor in my 1995 Osprey 200

14 of the 16 screws seem to be anchored correctly but I'm concerned about the safety of them

1- Do you think I should cut in 1 0r 2 new deck plates in so I can bolt the mount down?

2- What is the sub floor under the fiberglass floor?

Thanks for your suggestions

Gerard

[RickK]

SeaBob4 to the white phone please

[seabob4]

Gerard,
Your leaning post mounting pads sit directly over the fuel tank outboard stringers, as far as I can tell.  The outboard mounting holes may be accessable.  So do this.  Locate the leaning post where you want it, and drill (1) hole with a 3/16" bit on the outboard side, port and starboard.  If the bit passes through the deck and finds no further stringer below, than cut a 3 3/8" hole mid-mounting pad to access the underside of the deck, once again, both sides.  That way you t/bolt the outside mounting holes, and lag the inner holes into the stringers.  1/4-20 Ovalhead bolts for the t/bolts, #14 Ovalhead lag screws on the inner holes.  

The reason I said use a 3/16" drill for the exploratory holes was that if they went into the stringers, you could still lag with #14s.  Those outer holes will have to be opened up to 1/4" to t/bolt.

Use 5200, not 4200.  You want that leaning post to stay put, and, trust me, 5200 will help a lot...spread it over the mounting bases when you do your install, then clean up with acetone...

[gran398]

than cut a 3 3/8" hole to access the underside of the deck, once again, both sides.


Followed everything but this part....thanks, Seabob.

[seabob4]

The 3 3/8" hole will allow him to t/bolt all the outboard mounting holes, then he will need to cover the holes with a 4" screw-down inspection pies...

I guess I left that part out...

[gran398]

All right,  you're excused....

   

Need your input on Coosa board for an install (floor) on my aluminum 14 Doublewide (a boat, not a house trailer.... )

Will post in the next few days. In the meantime, keep up the good work....tx, S

[South Bay]

Bob,

If I put the deck access plates under the leaning post (there will be a cooler there and no foot traffic) will I still be able to reach under the deck?

I'm not sure what it looks like and want to make sure I put them in the correct spot

Picture in my previous post shows the exact location of where I installed it

Gerard

[South Bay]

If I put the deck plate where I've indicated below would I still be able to reach under the stringer to bolt it?

[RickK]

Maybe an alternative is to remove the panel above the fuel tank and look under the floor where you want to (or have) mounted it?

[South Bay]

Rick,

What is the procedure to remove the panel?

Gerard

[seabob4]

Maybe an alternative is to remove the panel above the fuel tank and look under the floor where you want to (or have) mounted it?

An easier way would be to take the pie out, measure over to the inboard edge of the stringer under the deck, then transfer that measurement from the edge of the pie opening on top of the deck and mark it.  The stringers are about 4" wide on the top at that point.  Measure over from the mark 4", and that should be the outside edge of the stringer.  Then you'll be able to compare where the leaning post feet land in relation to that mark...

[slippery73]

I wouldn't cut access holes in my deck to install through bolts. Thats about the worst thing you can do for the value of a boat. I'd look into a stainless toggle anchor if your not hitting the stringer tops. You'll have to drill a larger hole to get anchor in but at least it will be covered and sealed.

[seabob4]

Slippery,
Not saying that the toggle-bolt method won't work, which it will, but that every builder who has access pies in the cockpit sole, and they ALL do, to t/bolt components has decreased the value of the boat right out the door?

[slippery73]

Slippery,
Not saying that the toggle-bolt method won't work, which it will, but that every builder who has access pies in the cockpit sole, and they ALL do, to t/bolt components has decreased the value of the boat right out the door?

Yea, that would be a good bet. Any builder that has the foresight to install backing plates where they know seats, consoles, livewell..... are going to be installed generally sell for quite a bit more than a boat with plastic access hatches everywhere. It would be safe to say thats what separates higher end builders from lower end or production builders. Quality of hatches, rigging, planning, etc.

[GoneFission]

Ditto on the 5200 as well - remember it's not just a sealant, it's also an adhesive, and contributes a good deal to keeping things together.  

SeaBob won't steer ya wrong...  But it may cost ya a beer.