1998 245 Tournament

[Hozenya]

Bob,
Pics of the inside of the CC and new switch panel, didn't think to get pics before I rewired... 8)

[seabob4]

Marc,
On your Explorer, there should be an access pie in your cabin sole, the forward bilge pump should be under there.  Won't be fun to swap out, though... :cry:

Hozenya,
Your Osprey doesn't have a fwd bilge pump, they are only installed on cabin boats.  So that third feed out of the breaker box in the back end really isn't doing anything.

Thanks for the pics of the wiring.  No, I didn't wire that one.  All my wiring ran up the center of that wall, with the three branches of the main accessory harness broken out, completely enclosed in split-loom except for the plugs, and secured with adel clamps.  Plus I located the ground bus to the right of center.  But I remember the guy who did wire it...

You've got a nice set-up there.  The new BRP twin binnacle, that's a new breaker/switch panel (looks good!).  That Raymarine module in the lower center, that looks like a fluxgate compass for an autopilot, but I didn't see a control head on the dash...

[Hozenya]

Thanks!

When I got the boat the wires did run up the middle of the wall but were not covered, I had to shift everthing to the left in order to make room for all the new trons I installed. Yes, that is a Raymarine fluxgate compass, I installed it to sync up the radar to true north. The boat came with no trons so I outfitted.

While doing my pre checks, I found that the engine controls were sticking on the port side and while diagnosing that, found there was a cable binding. Upgraded to the BRP controls and Teleflex Xtreme cables. Will get current pics this wkend as I need to pull the boat out to clean the bottom.

The old sw panel had seem better days and some of the sw's were intermittent so I had the panel built, added new lighted rocker sw's and moved the util outlet to the lower console.

[seabob4]

Another thing I just noticed that tells me I didn't wire it.  See the vaccu-formed wire pass throughs in the deck sole?  The top one is upside down...

But the real issue is to get your Haitian Hatch to drain... :evil:

[flounderpounder225]

Hey SeaBob,
I have the 245 Osprey also, not the explorer, but that's OK, it must get confusing with who has what and pickin your brain all the time.  So no FWD Bilge pump, didn't think so after chasing that circuit.. Thanks
Marc

[Hozenya]

Update on front hold area not draining...

After doing some more poking around with a fiberglass push pull rod, I found that the aft drain hole in the bilge area you would hit the fuel tank as soon as entered the hole. Tried angling the rod in all directions but still hit the tank!!

My best guess is the tank has slide back and is now resting right up aginst the drain pipe and if the boat had sat for any length of time, algea may have built up to completely block the hole.

With that said, took the boat for a day of fishing and ran into some rough water which had us pitching at all angles. After returning and during cleanup, noticed the front hold was empty    . Ran some water in there to test and found the water is slow to drain but still drains much better than ever before  . Thought about how to shift the tank forward and shim it from moving back again but for now it drains and will leave it be.

[seabob4]

Hozenya,
Interesting.  That forward drain pipe should run under the fuel tank board, it shouldn't drain into the fuel compartment.  Yet that sounds like what you are saying...

At least the forward compartment is draining now...

[Capt. Bob]

I'm on thin ice here but in my state I can afford to gamble.

In my 91WAC, the forward bilge pipe terminates in the fuel tank compartment. That compartment has a floor that the tank rests on and sits about 1 to 1-1/2 inches above the center line of the keel (?). The pipe itself is a 2" pvc so that you could stick a wire through from the forward end and strike the tank board, go under the board or hit the tank itself .
The same situation resides in the rear of the fuel compartment. The 2" pvc pipe is not connected because of size constraint. Water flows under the elevated tank floor as it traverses its path from from front bilge to the rear bilge.

Bob has physically witnessed the construction of theses boats so he KNOWS what's happening. I'm basing my thoughts on one boat built in 1991 and a review of the molding process that is often shown in the Aqua catalogs. It appears to my tired eyes that the 2" pvc pipe, running under the tank floor is not connected and that the flow is directed down the center of the keel. Take this for what it's worth but it helps explain why you are having problems poking around on the back end. Since in my boat there is a space between the pipe and the tank board I feel it exist to allow any water that might find its way into the tank compartment to also drain to the bilge.
Pure speculation but seems logical in my case.

Lastly, I have plugged both ends of the pipes with expandable neoprene plugs so that no water can pass through the fuel compartment. The front bilge is isolated from the tank as is the rear. Should water somehow manage (God forbid) to enter the tank compartment, removal of the rear plug is easily accomplished from the rear bilge.

Just a thought or two.

[seabob4]

Bob,
Your thoughts are always appreciated...  

[Capt. Bob]

This is what I found when I opened my tank compartment.


While it's hard to see, you'll notice the pipe ends in front of the board that supports it. This is exactly the same in the rear of the tank compartment but the spacing (gap between board and pipe) is slightly shorter.

In this one you can clearly see the tank support board and the end of the pipe (now plugged and sealed).



Lastly, this is a "standard" photo used on several later model Aqua catalogs and Bob can best confirm if the pipe runs continuous or not. I would think your stringer system is "similar" but again I'm only guessing. To me, it appears the pipe stops and then exits the rear of the tank compartment.


Again, just thoughts.

[seabob4]

Okay, I racking my brain here, and this is what I can remember.  I only built a few hulls, when my hull rigger was out and I needed to build the hull so the boat would get decked that day, and I would have a boat for tomorrow.

The aluminum fuel tank was a V shape on the bottom, with about a 6" flat running down the center.  I don't remember a fuel tank board, so what I am thinking was that the tank rested on the hull bottom outboards, but had a cavity in between the center of the tank and the hull bottom, where any water draining into the tank compartment would run under the tank and out the drain tube in the base of the aft b/head.  That would explain the pipe Hozenya is using hitting the tank, if it were flexible enough, and he could get it to turn downward once it exited the pipe in front of the tank, it would probably go under the tank...

It's been a few years guys...

[Capt. Bob]

They say its your legs that are first to go but my memory left me long before my running days ended.

It's great speculation though. You never really know until you open her up.
We've seen so many "discrepancies" from the norm on the Hialeah hulls, either from factory effects or previous owners handy work.
And while the Genmar group seems to follow a pretty set pattern of construction, there, every so often, seems to be that little "twist" that makes ownership a slight challenge and yet a delight.

[seabob4]

They say its your legs that are first to go but my memory left me long before my running days ended.

It's great speculation though. You never really know until you open her up.
We've seen so many "discrepancies" from the norm on the Hialeah hulls, either from factory effects or previous owners handy work.
And while the Genmar group seems to follow a pretty set pattern of construction, there, every so often, seems to be that little "twist" that makes ownership a slight challenge and yet a delight.

And as long as the compartments are draining, no need to get the sawsall out...

[Patrick]

 Front hold area not draining.

Hozenya,  did you every solve the mystery of why the water would not drain the the rear bilge?  I have the same issue. No water will exit the front compartment or fuel tank compartment threw the rear drain.  I need to pump it out with the font bilge pump.  It seems like if should just run out the aft bilge by the angle I have it on.   I to put the rod threw the pvc drain and hit the tank.

Any help would be appreciated. 

[Capt. Bob]

Front hold area not draining.

Hozenya,  did you every solve the mystery of why the water would not drain the the rear bilge?  I have the same issue. No water will exit the front compartment or fuel tank compartment threw the rear drain.  I need to pump it out with the font bilge pump.  It seems like if should just run out the aft bilge by the angle I have it on.   I to put the rod threw the pvc drain and hit the tank.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hoyzenya hasn't been active for several years but I'm working on some links that will help you out.

This link will give you some idea what's going on.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12374.msg124855#msg124855

The forward bilge is connected to the rear bilge through the fuel tank coffin.  The tank sits (believe me on this) on a shelf that is just above the keel, creating a flat section for the tank to rest. Water passes from the bow to stern, through the tank coffin, underneath this shelf. So......

You may be hitting the shelf itself with the tape.
Your tape is above the shelf, thus hitting the tank.
The shelf may have rotted and collapsed.
You may have debris under the shelf blocking the rear coffin exit.

Have you tried snaking from the rear bilge forward?