Repairing damaged molding (rub rail)

[South Bay]

I would like to try to repair the damage pictured below

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

[seabob4]

South,
Unfortunately, you're going to have to splice in a new section of the extrusion, the part that got "dinged".  I'm pretty sure this is what we were using at the time...http://tacomarine.com/item--1-1-2-x-7-8-Rigid-Rub-Rail--V21-9501.html, along with this insert...http://tacomarine.com/item--5-8-x-5-16-Flexible-Vinyl-Insert--V12-0342.html.

Now, actually, the easy part will be the rigid extrusion.  You can probably find a local supplier that will sell you a 10' section, but often they come in 20' sections.  Remove the insert from the bow to about 6'-8' back on both sides, remove the screws securing the extrusion, then, with a hacksaw, cut out the damaged section about 4' back on both sides.  Now, starting at the very center of the nose, start drilling and securing, alternating back and forth between starboard and port, until you've got it secured about 18" from where the joints will be.  Mark the new piece about 3/16" past the joints and cut there.  Now, pull the end of the new piece away from the pull and push the very ends of the new piece into where the joint is, then secure the rest of the way.  This technique ensures a very tight joint that won't likely separate over time.

The real problem is the insert.  Yes, you can buy a small piece, but there is virtually no way to keep a tight joint if you just "piece" it in there.  The stuff will shrink over time, and, unless you want to mechanically secure it somehow, which will look like crap, you'll end up with gaps.  The best bet is to replace the entire insert.  You'd need about 48', I think you can buy them in 50' rolls.

You know, I'd only been at Wellcraft/Aquasport about a year in '95.  And if your boat was actually built in '94, there's a good chance that your rubrail may have been installed by me...

Bob C

[South Bay]

Bob,

Thank you for the reply, great information!!

I'm going to price the entire molding and see what the cost would be

Thanks again

Gerard

[seabob4]

Gerard,
My pleasure.  Post the cost here, if you don't mind...

[South Bay]

Will do. I'm still looking for other cost effective options

[cdoyal]

Bob's right, the stuff magically shrinks. I just fixed a 10' section of rub rail on my boat. The rail had come loose so I cut the insert at a junction where two rail sections came together. I pulled the insert out, re-screwed the rail down, and with the help of my wife's hair dryer, worked the insert back in. Of course there is now a five inch gap in the insert but it'll work untill I have time to install a completely new insert.

[seabob4]

Chris,
The problem is you basically are stretching the insert, which compacts it, to get it in the extrusion.  Once it's in it relaxes and...viola!, it shortens right up.  There is actually a technique that is acquired that no one who has never built boats for a living will learn about working with this material.  Takes about 20 boats to get it down pat.  But once you do, you can do a rubrail on a 245/250 Explorer/Osprey, start to finish, at 2 1/2 hours, including endcaps and sealing.

But then you move on to bigger and better things...

[DeepTrouble]

Does anyone have a place to get the "butt" ends that finish off the rub rail at the stern??? There are 2.

[Capt. Bob]

Does anyone have a place to get the "butt" ends that finish off the rub rail at the stern??? There are 2.

Same place as the rub rail.
Here's a start.
http://tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail-Acc ... rr-rp.html

[DeepTrouble]

that makes perfect sense, bookmarked, thank you:) how about reconditioning it, its faded and a bit dry. i used to use mcguires tire gloss on my brothers Grady rail.