Access to Fuel Tank Fittings, Tank to Engine

[Skip]

Hi guys!  I'm a new "member" although I've had an AS for a while.

I've got a 86 Osprey 200 that I've had for about 15 years with a 10 year old Yamaha 150.  It stays in the water 9 months a year.  Of course, being in VA I have had the worst of ethanol phase separation problems for several years, and more than most folk, it seems.  I get a lot of water and gunk related problems even with "anti-e10 additives" and a 10 micron filter.  It has had to have the carbs cleaned/rebuilt annually for the last three seasons.  (Pretty expensive, especially since I never had any of this problem before e10.)

As I've been prepping the boat for this season, I again for the third year pumped out the original aluminum fuel tank (looked like ice tea) through the sender hole and started to replace the old tank to engine fuel line with the newer type that is better with e10.  Routing the line was little problem, however when I started to install the hose on the barb coming out of the tank, the barb snapped off.  It screws into a 90 degree, square shiny silver fitting (stainless??) which screws into the tank.  All of this is super hard to get to through a 7" round port under the console.  

I'm concerned that if I can get a tool that will fit the square fitting entering the tank, that I could damage the tank with too much torque on the fitting while trying to remove it.  (Incidentally, the empty tank moved just a little when I was trying to unscrew the fitting with my current tools.)

Is there any suggestion about this project?  I've got to get it done before I can give the engine to the mechanic to clean/rebuild the carbs and it's May Day!!

Thanks,

Skip
Virginia Beach, VA

[Marcq]

Welcome aboard Skip   What are you using for tools and is your hatch over those fitting?

Marc..

[fitz73222]

Hey Skip,
It should come out. Most of those fittings are aluminum to match the tank material and limit galvanic corrosion. It is a pipe thread. I just checked one I had in the parts bin and a 7/8 open end wrench fits the "square". Hopefully it has pipe dope or teflon tape to seal the threads so it should not be stuck. Now you just have to be able to swing it enough to make the turns needed to break it loose. Tie a piece of string about 6+ feet long to the box end side of the wrench to get the wrench back when you drop it!!! I live in the land of Murphy`s law so as I`ve gotten older I try to plan for "what can happen, will happen"!
Good luck brother!

Fitz73222

[RickK]

Welcome aboard Skip  :!:  :!:
Good advice there

[wingtime]

If it's a square 90 degree fitting that is the supply line it most likely has a siphon pick up tube on it.  You should be able to get one from your local boat supply house... or order one online.

[Skip]

Thanks, guys, for the good information!  I did get the fuel line installed after having replaced the barb.

Now a new challenge....   Having gotten the boat to the Yamaha dealer and having the three carbs rebuilt, I filled the empty fuel tank yesterday and immediately found fuel in the  bilge...bummer!

As you can imagine, I now have the center console leaning to the starboard and the tank cover removed.  There were about seven holes "eaten" into the area around the filler/fuel line area which is under the console. I've pulled the tank and there are no other holes anywhere. This may explain where at least part of the water in the fuel has been coming from...not just from phase separation.

I've Googled and found several builders of aluminum tanks (Aftermarket Marine and SPtanks).  Does anyone have any suggestions or know anything about these two?  I really want to get a tank coming so that I can finally get the boat where it is supposed to be...in the water!

Thanks,

Skip
Virginia Beach, VA

[seabob4]

Well guys, shall we give RDS a try again?  Skip, what are the dimensions of your tank?  What are the fill/vent locations, as well as the pickup/sender locations?

Bob C

[Skip]

Bob,
The tank is 64 L x 21.5 W x 8 H.  The fill, vent, & fuel locations are side by side about 30" from the front and the electric sender is about 16" from the aft end.

Again, thanks!

[seabob4]

Bob,
The tank is 64 L x 21.5 W x 8 H.  The fill, vent, & fuel locations are side by side about 30" from the front and the electric sender is about 16" from the aft end.

Again, thanks!

Skip,
Fill/vent necks and sender/pickup centered on the tank? I'm assuming they are, but DAMMIT, I hate to assume... :x

[Skip]

Bob,

The fill is centered with the fuel pickup and vent on either side of it.  The sender hole is also centered.

[seabob4]

Skip,
How's this?


I assume the fill and vent necks will be oriented to starboard.  Another question, how are you planning to secure?  The way we do it at Proline is they weld on plates on top of the tank, (2) places on either side, that have 1/4-20 studs fixed in place, they have slotted L-brackets that can moved out and tightened down, then you secure the upright part of the brackets to the stringers using #14 lag screws.

Let me know what you want to do and I'll get the drawing to Ray at RDS Aluminum for a quote.  They'll fab it in .090" or .125" aluminum.  Skoots is .090", I think that does the trick and saves you some bucks...

Bob

[Skip]

Bob,

The pickup is beside the fill and vent, leaving the sender by itself.  Otherwise, it looks right.  Pretty work!  I look forward to hearing from RDS.

I've had a local sheet metal company give me a price today of $650 plus tax, no mention of epoxy, and I have to provide them with a sender.  Their material is 60" long so the tank would be, too.

SPTanks in NJ has quoted today $475 plus 80 for epoxy and $150 shipping, including the sender, and will ship in 7 days.

SpeedyTanks, also in NJ, has quoted today $465 including epoxy, plus 42 for a sender and plus freight and will ship in 5 days.

All of these are .125 5052 grade and include baffles.

As for securing the tank, I've read about "gluing"  with 5200 1/4" x 2" plastic strips across the bottom and then using the 5200 to glue the tank with strips to the bottom of the tank area.  I've still got the stainless straps and thought about re-using those, in addition.  What do you think?

Thanks!

[seabob4]

Skip,
I think it would be a better idea to have the pickup at the rear of the tank as that is where the fuel flows to when under way.  Almost all the tanks I've seen have the pickup adjacent to the sender.  What do you think?

Your existing hold down straps would work just fine.  Hey, they worked for the last 24 years, didn't they?

Let me know about the pickup.  In the meantime I'll send this drawing off to RDS and get a quote, including shipping to Virgina Beach.

[seabob4]

Skip,
Ray just emailed me back, he will get me a quote.  Keep our fingers crossed, as you got some pretty good quotes there yourself.  The dimensions you gave are for about a 48 gallon tank, pretty close to what shoot's was...

Let you know what I hear...

Bob

[Skip]

Thanks, Bob!  I'll consider relocating the pickup tube toward the rear, too!