Unfinished Bilge Drain

[Skoot]

I know this might be minor to some, but I removed the brass bilge flange on the transom bilge drain to redo the silicone seal and I found that the inside of drain was bare wood.  The bilge drain appears to be bare wood the entire width of the transom.  Im guessing it was never finished from the factory or the P.O. bored a larger hole removing the fiberglass and leaving bare wood.   The wood is damp but still very solid. I could barely scrape off any wood with a flat head screw driver.  What is the best/correct way to fix this?  Should I fill the entire bilge drain hole with thickened epoxy then re-drill? Would a brass drain tube work?  Thanks.

[Capt. Bob]

Skoot,
I added a transom drain to the CCP and did use a brass tube. Since I drilled a new hole, bare wood was the norm. I sealed with 5200 thirteen years ago but since I haven't removed it I can't say the wood isn't wet. Transom still seems solid in this area and (to me anyway) isn't a concern at this time. I suppose you could coat the wood with resin, refit the drain (use a full length brass) and seal.

Good luck

[Mad Dog]

If it were mine, I would cut the hole to about twice the current diameter.  Hopefully that would remove all the wet wood.  Then using epoxy resin and woodflour filler, refill the hole completely and let it cure.  Then, bore a new hole through the epoxy plg and install the drain tube according to lable directions.  You'll need a little paint touch up.  With this fix you will never have to worry about water penetration agian.  

MD  

[slvrlng]

Thanks a lot Skoot!!! :x

I was trying to be nice and get some pics for you of what the bilge looks like on the inside since I have an inspection plate there. So I stuck my phone in there and snapped away. Upon pulling the phone out I looked to see if they had turned out and this is what I saw!



Just great!!!!! Hey terntwo I feel your pain!!!
In addition to being cracked it doesn't look like its even tabbed to the transom! If it was it isn't anymore!
So now mine just went from fixing the soft spots in the floor to doing the whole damn thing!
Oh yeah here is where my plate is located, why I don't know! Also this is what your coffin should look like when you pull the cover, it has at least a 2 inch edge from the top of stringers.

[Marcq]

Yikes Lewis Doesn't look good. I'm almost afraid to look into mine :(
Weird location too for a crack  

Marc..

[slvrlng]

Yeah , what a pain! I'll post any more updates on my "Here I go again" thread. Sorry to hijack this one Skoot , just trying to help you out!

[Capt. Bob]

Oh Mama,
That transom drain isn't lookin' so bad after all, huh Skoot?  

Good luck Lewis.
Guess it's better to find it now on dry land rather than at sea.  :cry:

[flkeysaqua]

Stop me if im wrong but our boats did not come with a bilge/transom drain people added them after the fact and I too did what capt Bob said exspect I bored the whole out pass the wet wood and plugged it with a hardwood dowel soaked in resin then glassed over the whole area inside and out sanded, filled, painted then re-drilled the new whole and sleeved it with a brass sleeve with a rediculious amount of 5200 my problem was sealing between the plug flange and sleeve with limited room from above the deck I ended up using a piece of all thread and nuts and washers to pull them together hope this helps But its been only a year and the brass is well on its way out the door I'm going to replace it soon with stainless sleeves and flange I would highly recommend paying the extra to do it only once  8)

[RickK]

As far as I know my 170 had a factory drain in it. (and so did my 230)

[Mad Dog]

Stop me if im wrong but our boats did not come with a bilge/transom drain people added them after the fact and I too did what capt Bob said exspect I bored the whole out pass the wet wood and plugged it with a hardwood dowel soaked in resin then glassed over the whole area inside and out sanded, filled, painted then re-drilled the new whole and sleeved it with a brass sleeve with a rediculious amount of 5200 my problem was sealing between the plug flange and sleeve with limited room from above the deck I ended up using a piece of all thread and nuts and washers to pull them together hope this helps But its been only a year and the brass is well on its way out the door I'm going to replace it soon with stainless sleeves and flange I would highly recommend paying the extra to do it only once  8)

I don't know if it was a factory install or not by my 22-2 had a garboard drain in place when I got it.  So, there was no drain tube.  As I recall when I removed the rotten transom core that area was pretty much compost.

MD  

[Skoot]

Stop me if im wrong but our boats did not come with a bilge/transom drain people added them after the fact

If you look closely at the top right pic in this brochure you can see a drain. http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... photo/2724  Mine also came wit a garboard drain installed.


Thanks for the replies and pics, sorry to hear about the stringer crack slvring, Its all my fault.  So decisions, decisions.  I definitely want to get the wet wood out or at least dry it out?  How well would a space heater work?

If it were mine, I would cut the hole to about twice the current diameter. Hopefully that would remove all the wet wood.

Sounds good, but how?  Im guessing start by cutting the outer transom skin(with what?) then remove the wet wood but leave the inner transom skin, then repack as stated?

[Keith Knecht]

I once had a long conversation with Welcraft after they had taken over Aquasport.  The conversation centered around a transom replacement that I was about to do on a 281 Osprey.  For the sake of a $1.50 they could have finished of the hole that they dirlled for the drain plug and also the scupper holes.  Rather than do that, they left the raw plywood exposed to act a wick.  The guy at Welcraft said that was common practice in the industry and that the transom would typically last 10 years and then you would need to buy a new boat.  Sort of planned obselence.  Piss poor but appearently standard practice for most of the industry including Aquasport.  Basically, they all came that way.

[Mad Dog]

If it were mine, I would cut the hole to about twice the current diameter. Hopefully that would remove all the wet wood.

Sounds good, but how?  Im guessing start by cutting the outer transom skin(with what?) then remove the wet wood but leave the inner transom skin, then repack as stated?

Even more straight forward than that.  You can use a hole saw, as much as 2".  Just position the guide bit above the existing hole enough hold the saw in place until it gets a good bite.  Put a backer on one side of the hole (could use duct tape) then fill the hole with woodflour & epoxy putty (must be pretty thick, cold peanut butter consistency).  Let it cure.  Drill the hole for the new drain tube.   Its easy, strong, and permanent.

MD  

[flkeysaqua]

I stand corrected I thought I remembered someone telling me that when I replaced the drain on mine but I do stand corrected, I would definetly go with stainless though cost more but last ten times longer and looks good more than a day or two like brass.

[Skoot]

Looks like I'll be adding an inspection hatch sooner than later. At this point I have no way of getting to the back/inside of the the bilge drain. I would like to add a rectangular hatch, and the smallest one I could find is 7"x11". Would this size be okay?  Im really lost as to what type of tool/blade to use for fiberglass and wood. Im guessing a Jig Saw! You see I have alot of wood working experience, but when you add a layer of fiberglass to the wood I get confused.(probably over thinking as usual)  If I were to use a standard wood bit/blade etc it would become dull in no time.  Suggestions?