1973 Aquasport 19-6 Rebuild

[dirtwheelsfl]

whats all the putty for exactly?

Main purpose is to assure the deck is secured to the closed cell foam under it. Second is to make sure that the closed cell foam is sealed and even if water were to get under the deck that nothing would happen to it. Needed something to bond the deck to the closed cell foam.

hmm.. why not squeegee some epoxy resin over the foam to seal it? after awhile and with any sort of flexing and that putty will split apart in the thinner spots more than likely, and you wont be left with a bond between the foam and wood, just gaps for water to find its way in. looks like youve got it filled in enough where flexing wont be an issue though, especiall when you get glass on top. the screws and 5200 are what are going to hold the deck down, not the bond to the foam. cost and weight of 5 gals of resin coulda gone somewhere else if it was me. not trying to be critical, just wanted to give ya my thoughts...

[thennutts]

Point taken dirwheels, but the problem was when I sanded down all the foam it was not 100% flat and level all the way across, there were also points in the foam where it did not fill the sides all the way due to the "mushroom" effect of the rising foam, otherwise what you are saying would have been just fine and 5 gallons of resin would not have been needed. It needed something with viscosity to it, the resin alone would have been too watery. I basically did something comparable to what tile people do to a unlevel floor, basically laid "thinset" over the entire deck to have a level playing field, filling in deeper holes with more putty and less on the level surfaces. When I went by today to check out the final product, It sure did make me feel good that when I literally stomped around on the entire unglassed deck, it did not even budge, flex, crack etc. I even jumped on the seams and voids where the storage boxes would go trying to see if I could get flex and still didn't move. Its a rock solid deck, which I was trying to accomplish. I hear what you are saying though!

[thennutts]

Glassed the floor down. I didn't get a chance to take pics of the floor before I started to sand down the high spots and drips. It was such a pain to do this step, 2 of us did this, all from the outside of the boat, leaning over on ladders. What a nightmare, but it turned out great. Fiberglass schedule as follows:

8" 1 1/2 oz mat tab
8" 1708 tab
50" wide 1 1/2 oz mat  down left gunwale, across floor, and up right gunwale.
50" wide 1708 down left gunwale, across floor, and up right gunwale.
6" overlaps on each

Pics of other work done this weekend:






The left hole is for overflow tube, middle hole is drain at bottom of the live well, and right hole is water inlet hole.


Started fitting some wood supports, need to tweak them to make them fit better, will drill holes for rod storage, thinking maybe 3 rods each side, still not sure.


Access to fill and over flow tank tubes


got rid of the front casting platform that came in the boat, now will have front storage for anchor and line.


Center console in boat, will glass in next weekend.




Pics of Hatches I got






Next weekend will glass down center console, tab and glass side supports, and grind floor down. If things go well, I may even be able to start with the first layer of primer for the floor.

[thennutts]

By the way if you are wondering, those are black trash bags in the open compartments, I didnt want to spill resin and putty everywhere inside since they are already painted white and look nice!

[LilRichard]

One thought, I would suggest not using wood for your cap supports along the sides.  It will cause hard spots (hinge points) in the glass where it is contact with the wood, and will definitely have stress cracks later on.  That's the reason I used foam for mine...

[dirtwheelsfl]

^ another thought on those, i would double the thickness on them. then youre able to put a nice radius on the outside to wrap a single piece of glass around and tab it in to the hullsides at the same time. and itll be a little bit nicer on your toes being thicker. also what are you planning for a transition from the stock cap to the rear walkaround?

[Capt Matt]

You can also taper the gussets down so the are smaller where they hit the deck, that way your not always kicking them
Looking good
Capt Matt

[thennutts]

Lil richard, thanks for the tip. I will dig out the composite material and see if I have enough material to do the sides!

Dirtwheels, thanks for the tips, I think I will double the material, maybe triple it to make it thicker, great point. I also planned on boxing the corners in the rear and putting a top on the top of the box. Then all I will do is fill with cloth and resin and sand to a smooth transition. The top of the box will be the support for the weight, the resin and cloth will be only cosmetic. It will have a slight ramp down that will hopefully match each other. Those are my thoughts.

Capt Matt, thanks buddy, I was going to grab a level and mark them level straight down which will trim those bad boys up and get the toe killers out of the way! Thinking that should work out pretty good?

Really hope I have enough composite material left over, dont really want to buy another sheet at $200 bucks.

[dbiscayne]

i'd also add a drain hole where the support meets the deck & side of boat, otherwise you're always gonna have a mess collecting there.  But if you trim them straight down maybe that won't be a problem if theres not much material left at the bottom?  Theres another rebuild post somewhere with really nice side supports, blended in with the side of the boat so you don't stubb you're toes, more of a semi-circle shape but they don't offer any rod storage.

[thennutts]

Some progress pictures....


Glass laid out for the install of top cap supports. I used 1 layer of 1 1/2 oz mat and 1 layer of 1708.


Took everyone's advise and made the new side supports from 2 pieces of 1" composite, sandwiched a layer of 1 1/2 oz mat between them and then rounded the outside edge to help with the toes.








Front area I filled in all holes on top of the deck and put a layer of 1 1/2 oz mat and 2808 on top for strength. I know there will be people standing on the front deck constantly and didnt want a chance of cracking or flexing.


I had some warping on the very ends of my top cap from when I took it off. Only the last 12" of each one has a slight twist, so I rigged it to pull it down and hold as I fiberglassed it to the side supports, drilled a hole, and screw it to hold it in. Tomorrow I will add more glass to assure its strengh.


Picture of rear compartment


Next step  is double check all bonds are good, some minor touch ups, and then the start of the sanding marathon begins! then it is time to paint the top part of the boat! More pictures hopefully coming tomorrow! Hope you like the progress

[peter c]

Hi can you tell me if that is a pre manufactured transom and if so what manufacturers provide them?  thanks Peter

[thennutts]

Peter,

I built the transom myself. Made it by sandwiching layers of marine ply, cloth and resin. Take a peek back through the build pages and you will see exactly how I did it and what materials were used. 8)

[peter c]

thanks i did see that but forgot that was on this build  glancing thru it looked prefabbed   nice work

[thennutts]

Hey all, I haven't posted much because all I have been doing is sanding. I have just at 40 hours sanding the cap, floor, center console so far. I will be doing the final 5 hours of sanding on saturday and then do a 100% dust free clean and wipe to prep for the primer on sunday. First coat primer will be sunday!!! Here are some pics of the sanding mess I have going on, nothing exciting!





And I think someone in this thread asked how Im going to tie in the cap to the transom. Well, what I did was filled the gap with glass layers, 1 1/2 oz mat and 1708, then used a cabosil putty to make a nice transition, then will put matt and 1708 over that, then sand smooth, this will give it more strength than it really needs and transition perfect!

[RickK]

Very nice - bet you're glad the sanding is about over