1973 Aquasport 19-6 Rebuild

[LilRichard]

Capt Bob,

The seacock will not thread down any further, it actually needed another piece of foam under it to bolt down.

Why not just cut off part of the inlet pipe so it would fit???

[thennutts]

Rich, tried this several times with the 7 dollar piece that connects the 90 degree and the base of the pump. Cut it perfectly in a vice, filed it for over an hour and still didn't work.2 pieces later it still didn't work. And I'm def not going to risk the same thing on  a 70 dollar piece! I was over it and don't want to mess with it anymore. If you can cut brass and still get it to thread you are the man!

[fitz73222]

Hey Thennuts,

Here is a tip from my tool and die making world. If you don`t have a thread die to chase the threads after you cut the pipe then screw the mounting nut past the area you are about to cut. Make the cut and then back the nut off of the pipe. The nut will reshape the leading edge of the thread were you made the cut and will allow the nut to be re threaded again for installation.

[Capt Matt]

Give it a shot, the pump will work good either way.  You can always add a strainer later.  

I pulled the strainers off my flatsboat when I first got it thinking I would get more volume of water. Even running expensive magnetic drive shorflow pumps they burned out when they got packed with grass. After a year or two I went back to the strainer set up and a easy to change cartridge style disposable pumps. Pulling the grass out of the strainer every other day in the summer is a pain in the ass but as long as the stainer is easy to get to its not too bad. I just make it part of my end of the day boat cleaning. Its amazing how much grass gets pulled through the high speed pick up's. In the winter time I only have to clean the strainer out once a month or so.

Always carry a extra livewell pump too. I carry one spare cartridge pump on board with butt connectors already on it just in case. No pump means dead bait and generally leads to a bad day of fishing.

Couple of other thoughts to trick your livewell system:
 
Washdown pump
They are so handy for clean up after throwing the cast net or cleaning up when cut bait fishing. You can always put the sprayhead in the livewell too if the pump quits or you need more water volume

Timer switch
 I have one on eachlive well of my actioncraft. Its wired in at the switch and turns the pump on for 30 seconds every 3 minutes. Its great when winter fishing with shrimp, or when your not carrying a ton of bait, or if you you want to keep bait alive overnight while your boats in the water.

Recirculating pump.
I'm thinking about hooking one up on my new well. You can run it while towing your boat stocked with bait  The only problem with it is that the pick up sticks out inside the well and gives the shinners red noses. A live well with no obstructions at all works best.

Capt Matt

[LilRichard]

Rich, tried this several times with the 7 dollar piece that connects the 90 degree and the base of the pump. Cut it perfectly in a vice, filed it for over an hour and still didn't work.2 pieces later it still didn't work. And I'm def not going to risk the same thing on  a 70 dollar piece! I was over it and don't want to mess with it anymore. If you can cut brass and still get it to thread you are the man!

I guess it was beginners luck!  Damn, mine was not hard... sorry to hear it's not cooperating.

And good advice from Matt - especially about carrying a spare pump motor.

[thennutts]

Matt,
Agree with rich, great info, thank you! Thinking about installing a washdown, sure would be nice.

Rich,
Lucky you with those threads, I tried several times with several bronze pieces and just could not get it to thread!

[LilRichard]

I filed the threads a little and cleaned them up with a wire brush... like I said, may have been luck - but that was my process.

[Capt. Bob]

Taking this an additional step, the idea of cutting the threads is two fold.

First, it reduces the exposure of the weakest part of the connection between the seacock (valve) and the thru hull. Probably not a big problem on boats like ours but mainly on larger craft where "parts" could come loose in rough seas and strike the valve assembly causing failure at the threaded portion.

Second is that the thru hull thread is a male straight type as is the female thread in the valve. Positive sealing, by design is achieved through the mating of the thread surface on the end of both threads. I believe that occurs at a 30 degree angle. That stated, you want to file just enough to clean up any burrs but leave as much as the factory cut mating surface intact as possible. As stated earlier, the "poor mans" thread chaser (mounting nut) is an excellent way to clean the threads after cutting if the correct die is not available.

By through bolting (the correct way) the valve all the way through the hull itself, bottoming the threaded thru hull into the valve and not using the mounting nut, you help the thinner threaded portion resist a moment that would be applied say when a case of rum broke free in rough weather and struck the valve. Way overkill for our smaller craft unless you keep unsecured heavy things in your bilge.

Just some thoughts.

[gran398]

A thousand words.....but pics? Drawings? Pics of drawings?

Just messing....we're family here.  All for one, and one for all. Good post. Hope your birthday was a good one!

And now....back to proper thread-cutting techniques  

[Capt. Bob]

A thousand words.....but pics? Drawings? Pics of drawings?

Please remember, this is all opinion but is supported by pics and years of experience. Goggle is your friend.

Link allows reading of text better than a scan.
http://www.groco.net/SVC-MAN-07/Sec4/PDF/IBV-FBV-TB.pdf

This is the type I used. Navigate the site for info on thread types and mounting.
http://www.forespar.com/index.shtml

Here's a thread from a different Forum. Hey don't we know this guy?
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... ation.html

A photo link
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/repl ... lls&page=1

More articles /photos by the same guy
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects

Different Forum discussion on pipe thread by same guy above. Does deal with threads and proper bronze fittings by different members.
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-main ... -info.html

Changing gears, here's something we talk about and sorta fits what going on.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seal ... eck&page=1

Somewhere, I ran across a photo (s) of threads being sawed and dressed but I can't seem to locate it. Hopefully you get the idea.

[gran398]

Nice work. Thanks for taking the time..certainly appreciated by the boys.

Enjoyed the old link from a "member"... 8) ...and digging further, another CA member.

[thennutts]

6 tubes of 5200, 5 gallons of resin/ cabosil putty and 75+/- #12 stainless 2 1/2 flatheads and the deck is installed. Basically all I did was put a nice layer of putty on the closed cell foam, then made a glob in the middle of the section, 5200 a 3/8" bead on top of stringers and bulkheads then set the deck and squished everything down. Then added the SS screws and filled in all small gaps around the edges. I also filled all screw head valleys with putty. Andddd that is about the time I had to get out of there because I kicked the resin a little much and thought my shoes were going to catch fire the deck was getting so hot. Next weekend 100%, deck and console gets glassed in!







Deck in, you can see the battery outlines here, forward of center



I needed extra holes through the decking to run stuff now and in the future. So all i did was pvc cemented a fitting onto the 3" tube and cut the tube at one inch. Then 5200 into the flooring. This will allow my 2 bilge pump hoses and my overflow hoses run through the deck yet separate from the electrical and hydraulic lines in the other tubes. I still need to connect the two tubes that run up through the deck of the existing rigging tubes, ran out of 3" pvc.



Putty mixture to fill in all cracks and screw heads.

[dirtwheelsfl]

whats all the putty for exactly?

[thennutts]

whats all the putty for exactly?

Main purpose is to assure the deck is secured to the closed cell foam under it. Second is to make sure that the closed cell foam is sealed and even if water were to get under the deck that nothing would happen to it. Needed something to bond the deck to the closed cell foam.

[gran398]

Good work. Console design looks perfect. Not too wide either. Plenty of room with the T-top install to easily pass forward and aft.

And really like the curves at the base....will assume there is an inset lateral footrest we can't see. And while we're at it, may as well look good too.

Nice.