1973 Aquasport 19-6 Rebuild

[thennutts]

[thennutts]

[thennutts]

[thennutts]

[thennutts]

Progress:

Cap removed and braced to keep shape, all wood cores removed and sanded down. Waiting to set cap back on hull to brace and re-core. Even though I made a great brace I'd hate to glass everything in and it be the wrong shape. A little bit of pain to glass upside down but i'll feel better that way.

All plumbing has been put in. 3" PVC with fittings have been cut into bulkheads. These massive 3" pipes will make it great for pulls and even easier down the road if I need to add anything. There has also been a 1 1/2" pipe run up the side to the front of the boat for the windless connections. All fittings were glued together with high strength PVC cement and all holes caulked with 3m 5200. Also all drains have been placed in the hull.

The small pieces of tuff stuff have been laid out to make sure the configuration will work correct. There will be 2 bilge pumps, 1 thru hull pick up, sonar and a raw water wash down pump.

Last, the signature hull vent and the original bilge hole have been filled to give it more of a stream line look.

Hope you like the progress.

NEXT:

Order tank and aluminum plate for engine mount added.
Foam fill all unused compartments.
Fit the deck.
and the list goes on. More pics hopefully coming soon of the progress.


Thanks,
Chris

[bumpster]

Take all that crap out and get yourself some foam filled stringers and laminate them in place. it will save on weight and it will be stronger in the long run oops. I think i came in way to late on this thread. My BAD

Bumpster,

Thanks for your thoughts but I would like you to put some reasoning behind your statements. This "crap" that you think I should scrap is $180 a sheet, used in mega yatchs, airplanes, submarines and plenty of other configurations where weight is key. There is a boat company by the name of "contender", maybe you have heard of them? They use this same exact foam but 3lb density( the stuff I have is 10 lb density, its 3 times the compression strength of 3 lb) in their boats with 1 layer of 1 1/2 mat and 2 layers of 1708 with plenty of bulkheads and that is how they make their stringer/bulkhead configurations in which they hang huge motors off of and deal with plenty of stress and flex. I amgoing to use1 1/2 mat, then 3 layers of 1708 and put as many bulkheads as can fit. Also, you bring up that it will save weight. I carried 4 of these 4 x 8 sheets across  the warehouse I bought them from and loaded them myself into a truck, they dont weigh anything. I'd compare 1 sheet weight to a sheet of NON PT 1/4"  plywood, hardly anything. Once I lay all the fiberglass and run my PVC tubes for rigging I will be using a very dense pour foam, it is a major structural pour foam, its 12 lb(most people use 4 lb). When cured its as hard as concrete. Even if you hit it full blow with a hammer, it will barely put a dent in the foam. When you combine all this, strength is not an issue. As far as your weight concern, there is no concern because it is so lightweight. I don't know, maybe we arn't on the same page or you are thinking of another product? But hey, if it is strong enough for contender boats it will be just fine in my little 20 aquasport. Especially with the way im doing it, im overdoing it if anything!!!

-Chris

As I said I came in WAY TO LATE all I saw was the PT crap on the first try. No offense meant so slow your roll

[dirtwheelsfl]

that cap should hold its shape fine if you wedge it up where its got the original sheer in it. i ran a strin g from bow to stern on the boat, took some sheer to string height measurements and set the cap up pretty close to those measurements. i assume you braced it upwhile it was still on the boat? should be golden if you did. only problem i had was in the back where the cap tried to spread a little, id span something across there to keep the width if i did it again.  this is much better than glassing on your back haha

[RickK]

You'd never know it was the same boat as the one on page 1.
Good job  

[thennutts]

Bump... no worries got your PM, thanks!

that cap should hold its shape fine if you wedge it up where its got the original sheer in it. i ran a strin g from bow to stern on the boat, took some sheer to string height measurements and set the cap up pretty close to those measurements. i assume you braced it upwhile it was still on the boat? should be golden if you did. only problem i had was in the back where the cap tried to spread a little, id span something across there to keep the width if i did it again. this is much better than glassing on your back haha

Yes I did brace it while the cap was on the boat and then carried the entire thing off and set it upside down. Things should be pretty good to go. I think I may core the front triangle while on the ground but the cores running down the side I still am a little nervous!

You'd never know it was the same boat as the one on page 1.
Good job

Thank you RickK, been spending some serious "quality time" on this boat. I keep getting a little closer each day, just hope in the end it will be all I hope it will and some!

[thennutts]

Question: since i dont have my original floor as a template, does anyone have a suggestion of how to make a pattern for a new floor? or is this more of a trial and error thing? little by little? hopeing there is an easier way, but not counting on it!

[dirtwheelsfl]

rip some doorskin down a few inches wide, cut with tinsnips and hot glue it together as you go along. then transfer to the floor material. for the curve in the bow id run a piece of doorskin along it but its obviously going to hit just the hullsides, so take a batten of some sort and connect the points where it hit the hull, and mark the curve on your material with that. easy process, kind of hard to explain though hope that makes sense...

[slvrlng]

I used cardboard when I was copying the floor in my Airstream. There is a method I think called story stick. No it doesn't have anything to do with a cheerleader! Cut a rectangular piece of cardboard and get some wood lath strips. You need several different lengths. Place the cardboard in a spot and mark the place so you can relocate it. Take a piece of lath and mark top and mark one corner with a sharpie that way you will know where to place it. I also number them just to keep them in order. Tape the cardboard down so it won't move then place the stick on top and touch the marked corner against the hull with the other end over the cardboard. Then you simply draw around the outside of the lath on the cardboard. Pick up the lath and number the outline. Then just keep moving around the curve drawing the outlines on the cardboard. When one stick gets too short move on to the next length. Once you do both sides pull the cardboard and place it on the new floor material. Put the correct stick back in its outline and mark the corner point. This is a very easy way to do something that is otherwise very difficult. All you do then is connect the dots! It is amazingly accurate and as long as you don't lose the pieces can be repeated over and over. I'm not too good on photoshop but here is a drawing just to give you an idea of what it looks like. You can overlap outlines that is why I number them.

[seabob4]

Lewis,
That is actually an old tried and true method for fitting material where you have complex curves.  Like you say, connect the dots...

Only 97 down here today...

[slvrlng]

I finally found the thread over on airforums.com! This makes my drawing look like crap!
This is some really good info and his name is Bob also!
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/sto ... 29321.html

[gran398]

Continue to be amazed by the neurons (brainpower) around here....no joke.