New project 1973 19'6

[terntwo 24]

Any suggestion on the glass coming lose around the stringers, clean up and reglass over the old.

Also the cracked rear stringer just clean up and repair?

[slvrlng]

I have been thinking about what to tell you to do and I can't decide what to say. The crack in the stringer is pretty large and I would think you need to laminate on the inside as well as the outside to make it strong enough. The pulled up part needs to be bedded back down into the resin of your choice, then laminated on top with 1808 or 1708 biaxial. I like epoxy because of the longer work time and the lack of that styrene smell, but to each his own! This is only a starting point as the prep work on this is probably more important than the actual repair itself. Anymore questions post them and I'm sure someone else will chime in and put me in my place.

[terntwo 24]

Thank you for your reply slvrlng , I'll be using expoxy for the  repairs. Well we've been have some weather here another Nor'Easter that really took it's toll on the beaches and some road flooding , got some overtime . Haven't done much but I did drill some holes in the transom and it looks like I''ll be doing a rebuild there some wet and dark shavings came out . Talking to the wife she said if your going to do it do it right ,gotta love a women like that.  I think that will change when I start showing her the receipts. Now my question is do the repair from the outside in or inside out any pro/cons. Doug

[slvrlng]

Yeah, you can only hide so many receipts before they start saying where did those parts come from! I also have a request for terntwo, If you would be so kind as to measure your tank for me and post those dimensions it would be greatly appreciated. I am going to have one built and my hull didn't have a tank when I got it. If you can also measure the height of the fuel fill, that would help also. Thanks in advance!

[terntwo 24]

No problem, 21'' 5/8w x 63'' 1/4L x 8'' 5/8 d and from the bottom of the tank to top of filler is 10''3/4











The fourth picture of the tank is the fill and vent ,the fifth is the gauge and the sixth is the pick up.  Theres no plate on the tank with information on it.  Sorry that the pictures are a little fuzzy. Any other measurements you need ask I be happy to get them for you.

[slvrlng]

Thanks for the reply!!! That helps a lot. Ray at RDS only showed a 45 gal for a newer model Osprey.

[terntwo 24]

Last weekend I removed the middle front hatch and it is total shot




I removed the core that was total soaked, but where the pull was is broke and cracked. Don't know if it would be easier to make a new skin and core it or try to fix the old one. here are a few shots of the console. I'm thinking about cutting about 6'' out of the middle of the console to narrow it to walk by to the bow and do something with the height and the layout.

[terntwo 24]

Hello all did some work on the boat yesterday, removed the floor and cleaned up the stringers,man that stuff they glued the floor down with is a bear to remove,but the 24 grit pad did it but man what a pain in the A$$. O.K. I have some question about the floor. what I did was cut the floor all the way thru,then recut it but just the top glass and the plywwod which left a lip to put the new deck to



I'm going to cut the control trough but leave the edge of the liner Yes /No

I didn't want to cut until I asked if this was a good idea.about leaving the lip of the liner , The new floor should sit on top of the stringer and sit on the lip I made.

There is a little gap on the stringer to the lip, but when I put pressure on the level it's not a lot( the picture shows with no weight). I'm thing about doing the transom repair from the outside  I was going to leave a 2'' strip around the transom sides and bottom any input would help.


Should I cut the top of the gunnels to do the transom repair and then reglass it back together.

 Oh ya I have the HIN # ASPEC 558M73D, Sorry for all the questions but I have to ask before I go any further. If anybody sees some thing thats not right ,please speak up so I can correct it before I go any further Thank You in advance Doug, I'm trying to get as much destruction done before I make some type of cover/shed? to get thru the winter and try to keep it dry.

[slvrlng]

I would NOT cut the transom where you have it marked. IMHO, unless the outside is broken in pieces leave it in place you can always add more glass to the outside to clean it up. If you decide to cut it out make sure to build a cradle to support the sides so it won't flex.
Also, since you have it opened up I would do away with the control channel and run rigging tubes like maddog and others.
 
Here's a link to MDs! Thanks MD!
 
 
 
 http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... 2&start=90

[terntwo 24]

Well I went and cut the transom out yesterday(turkey day). I first cut the cap and then cut the outside transom skin, After thinking what would be easier for me to tackle I went ahead and cut

then the transom

Dug out all the very wet plywood and cleaned it up and no wonder the wood was wet because from inside the bilge they never tabbed the inside complete



There are a lot of gaps all along the the bilge area. The plyuood was very wet ,but not rotten, but needed to be replaced.



My plan is to clean up the outer skin ans try to reattach it.


 Also I might cut the front casting deck out to put on the spray rails that LilRichard did on his boat, I really like the way they look and the added spray reduction they provide, but the extra work of cutting and reglassing has me at a crossroad.

How far would you guys grind the sides and the bottom to feather in the transom repair.

And yes I'm going to need a pair of those badges flkeysaqua, but I'll be in contact with you at some point in this project.

The thickness of the transom is 1'' 1/4 so I'll be getting some 3/4'' and 1/2'' plywood

but I need to come up with some kind of cover for the boat for the winter to keep working on it.

[flkeysaqua]

And yes I'm going to need a pair of those badges flkeysaqua, but I'll be in contact with you at some point in this project.

Lol you read my mind terntwo already have a pair set aside for you.

[LilRichard]

Too late now, but most people go form the front once you have the floor out and are able to connect the stringers up, etc.  It'll work the way you're doing it, you just have more fairing ahead of you because you went form the outside.

As for those stringers - yeah... not so good.  If you decide to keep them, you need to do some WIDE overlaps when laying glass.  I would want to know why they cracked though... look at the hull and I bet you find stress cracks all around where they popped.  If that is the case, pull the stringer and start over... because you properly fix the hull cracks without laying some glass on the inside.

Interested to see what you find.

[LilRichard]

Oh, and there's a ratio for glass scarfs - can't remember off the top of my head, I think it is 10:1?  That means if you feather in a 1/2" thick piece of glass, you want to overlap it to 5".  But make sure you increase the overlap with each piece of glass- so the first one might be 1.5", second at 3", etc.

Does someone recall the ratio?  Is 10:1 right?

[terntwo 24]

Hey Guy's just an update on the project, I haven't done a damn thing on it in over 2 months because of the wonderful weather up here in jersey . I have been working on making a PVC frame and going to cover it with shrink wrap but again everytime I get a chance to work on it a major snow storm hits and it's another week before it melts to do anything . So as soon as I get it covered and start working on it I'll post some porn :)

[terntwo 24]

well finally have all the stuff to get going and some nice weather,  Roll of 1708,resin,6 in 1708,12in 1708. so I be posting pics of what I get done, everything is ground down and ready to go, going to start with retabbing the stringers and go from there:lol: wish me luck