PARTIAL FLOOR REPLACEMENT

[Miguel]

Just try to avoid making it so long that it goes up and down and up again.  That could lead to trouble in the gas pump.
Good luck installing the new one!!

[Radioshop]

I don't think you can change that hose routing because there's a notch in the stringer top just for those lines.  The problem is going to be breaching the stringer.  I believe your hose was probably glued in, albeit by accident, durring construction.  I'm pretty sure Aquasport would have laid those hoses in prior to setting in the deck.  If you were to simply tug on the rope, you could have same problem P.Bailey describes, but I would reccomend a combination of feeding hose and, tugging rope.  What happens is when the hose stops, for whatever reason, pull applied to the rope is going to cause it to take the shortest route, which may include a void between the stringer top and, deck.  While rope fits, the hose doesn't.  Also, I can't say enough for lubrication.  Part of you problem pulling the old hose out may have been it was dry and, could have even been stuck to flotation foam or, whatever.  Slather on the goop!!!!

[osprey170]

I got the new fuel fill and vent hoses installed last night.  It took about 15 minutes to get the new hoses routed and in place.  The old hose was a pain to get out because it was hard, dry and flat in some places.  The flat areas were caused by the hose being pinched between the hull and deck - this also made it harder to get out.  In the fuel tank tub there is only a hole barely large enough for the hose to fit. This caused the flat peices and protruding rusted wire wrap to get caught around the lip of the opening.  It took about two hours of pacing, cussing, grunting and sweating to get the old one out, but it came out in one peice.

I tried routing the new hose without the rope first and it worked.  What I did was feed the hose in towards the bow.  I then went up to the starboard storage compartment where there is a round access panel.  I reached my arm in, grabbed the hose and snaked it between the storage compartment and the deck up to the fuel fill hole.  It was much easier than I thought.  It took longer to put on the hose clamps than it did to run the hose.  This may not work in every case but I would think it would for most 170's.  The biggest factor IMO is where and how much foam was put in under the deck and where your access panels are located.

Thanks for everyone's help, I almost didn't do it because I thought it would be way too hard but now I'm glad I did.

Now it's time to get back to fishing!  :twisted:

[Miguel]

Could you do all this without removing the console??

[osprey170]

Absolutely not - no way.  On my 170 the fuel fill and vent fittings were just below the large storage compartment/baitwell/cooler in the console.  There is about 1" clearance in there - the console had to come up.  Taking up the console wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be.  There are about 10 - 12 screws holding it down which came out easily.  Then you have to get past the caulk/sealant which isn't difficult either. You can't remove the console completely unless you disconnect all your wiring and cables.  I just lifted mine up and used some old 2x4s to keep it up out of the way.

Of course once I changed the hoses and wasn't satisfied.  I removed the entire floor panel to see what the tank looked like aft of the console.  Last year I had made a pedestal to support the soft floor and now realized this was a mistake.  The wooden pedestal rested on the tank and was causing some corrosion on my tank because the wood was soaked with water.   I cleaned up the corrosion and coated the heavily pitted areas with JB weld.

Well I could go on forever - I welcome everyone interested to take a look at my gallery I uploaded some pictures that will explain everything.

[Miguel]

It's like deja vu....  I have the same boat (see my gallery) and did the same thing.  I even gave some serious tought to the idea of hinging the console, so it could be turned sideways when access to the tank was necesary.  That idea was discarded and I ended up screwing it in place again.  However, I sealed all the screw holes with marine tex and moved the console about 1.5 inches forward.  All the screw holes are new, all the screws are new and I gave the whole thing a liberal coat of 3M 5200 before setting in place.  I really hope that I don't need to do it all again soon because it will be a PITA!!!

[RickK]

...and I gave the whole thing a liberal coat of 3M 5200 before setting in place.  I really hope that I don't need to do it all again soon because it will be a PITA!!!

Isn't 5200 supposed to be permanent?  
The main problem I've found with my console was that it loosened up after a while from the pounding of rough seas and passengers needing to hold onto something.  As it loosened up, the screws were ripped out of the floor.  When I re-did my floor I made a second layer of wood that matched the console footprint (see here), glassed it in and now I have twice the wood to screw into.  No need to use 5200 to secure it - just use some caulking around each screw.
My $.02 - if you're re-doing the floor anyway.....

[osprey170]

I decided to replace the floor panel because I didn't want to have to go back in there anytime soon.  I will be replacing the fuel hose to the engine and control cables while I have the console up as well.  I was planning on using 5200 to seal the floor and the console.  I was going to seal the console to keep water out of the storage area.

Miguel - that's a good looking boat.  I wish mine looked half as clean as that.

Rickk - did you paint your boat or is that the original gel?  I want to paint mine possibly this winter and wanted to know how you got that line set.

[RickK]

Rickk - did you paint your boat or is that the original gel?  I want to paint mine possibly this winter and wanted to know how you got that line set.

Imron paint on the sides (sprayed), housepaint (oil based - rolled) on the bottom.  I decided to use house paint many years ago because: 1)could use any color I wanted (not many colors in bottom paint) and change the color whenever I want (I just bought a new truck so I'm going to change the color to match my truck), 2)my boat lives a good part of it's life on the trailer and when it starts to "wash away" I can roll another coat on.
As for the line, I followed the original line that was there with black tape that I bought from a marine surplus place.