1991 21 WAC

[jdupree]

Congrats Bob Looks like you have a nice rig!!  Love the fishing room in the back which the CCP's are lacking.  I guess this means you won't be a member of the CCP club anymore :cry:

[Capt. Bob]

Thanks JD.

I won't be giving up my CCP membership for a while.

[Capt. Bob]

Well I fixed the steering problem easily enough. The starboard side support bracket was frozen to the support rod and caused the steering to bind when turning to port.
I used a propane torch to heat the bracket (aluminum) and it came right off. Cleaned everything up and re-greased. Operates smoothly in both directions.

I pulled the deck hatch over the fuel tank.





Doesn't appear to be in too bad of shape.





Looking down at the tank and the sticker in the far end. Sticker is stamped 105 gal. capacity with a 11/90 build date.

It's mounted completely different than my CCP. Thick rubber straps are against each end and underneath for support. The two aluminum straps over the top have the same thick rubber underneath them also. Tank feels "V" shaped on the bottom.

The hatch pulled right off after removing the screws and was missing sealant almost all the way around. I would have to think that water entered the tank compartment without much trouble. It appears that a pipe connects the front bilge to the rear and lies under the tank compartment. There appears to be gas floating (smells like it too) in the front bilge which currently has a small amount of water in it. I'm guessing the tube under the tank must be penetrated thus allowing fuel to enter.

Can the tank be leak tested in place (with fuel)? If not, I'll just have to drain and pull.
Aside from that, the hull appears in excellent shape on the inside.

Rick, here is the rear hatch section. Appears like your's but I don't have two hoses coming off the live well pump like you do. Is that second hose on your's a wash down?







I'm assuming this is a filter for the raw water to the live well.

[RickK]

My thru-hull had a plastic valve on it - members here caught that so I changed it out.  The livewell pump that was attached to it didn't work.  The output off that did have a "Y" on it, 1 going to the livewell and the other going to a washdown hose.  The livewell pump was a 700 gph so it wasn't going to provide much pressure for washdown that's for sure.
I replaced the ballcock with a real one and put a real pump on it for washdown. Johnson 5.2 gpm 70 psi pump.  Don't have the hose to the livewell connected to anything now.


The previous owner had a hose connected to the bottom of the fishwell and that was connected to another small pump that was connected to a shower head - so I guess he filled the fishwell with fresh water and that was his fresh water washdown  
I put another pump in the bilge (3.2 gpm - to right in pic)

and replaced the fishwell with a 40 gal water tank.

The green and brown tank to the right in the last pic is a fiberglass propane tank for grilling.  8)

[GoneFission]

Tank Cover:  Bob, the tank cover looks pretty good except right around the deck plate opening, where some delamination has occured.  You might want to think about just taking the 6" deck plate out, and replacing it with an 8" deck plate.  That extra 1" radius should get all the delam areas.  Just remember to seal the edges with epoxy after you cut the new hole so it won't delaminate again in the future.

[Capt. Bob]

Will do.

Those things ain't cheap for just a hole.

[GoneFission]

See if you like any of these:

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw ... acat=26443

Good luck!

[Capt. Bob]

Thanks CJ
I began the task of draining the tank tonight. Got out about 75 gals so far. Not hard work but I just don't currently have enough containers for the full tank.

Pics to follow when I pull the tank.

[GoneFission]

Taking the tank to empty takes a while, doesn't it?  I figured about 60 gallons was in mine when it started leaking.  Filled up every container I had, and all the vehicles, and all the other gas-powered stuff - then gave about 25 gallons away to neighbors.  Who would have thought one would worry about having TOO MUCH gas?     Unless, of course, last night was chili night...  

[Capt. Bob]

Well we mowed the yard with a couple of gallons yesterday. Thing is, I try and use as much gas up as we approach winter because the lawn equipment just sits.
Looks like my son will have plenty for school though  
If the PO was truthful when he said he topped off the tank, I still have another 25 gals. to go.
Hope that Ranger likes the stuff because my Dmax just turns up its nose when it gets around gasoline.

[Capt. Bob]

Well the fuel keeps coming and I've exhausted the containers. Hopefully by the weekend, I can empty some into my son's Ranger.
So with the draining at a standstill (there can't be much left) I started on the task of removing the tank tie downs.



Ya gotta love those guys on the assembly line. Always kidding around.
Let's put the tank in first, screw 'r down and let the next poor bastard (insert my name here) take 'r out.

It appears (and confidence level is high) that they installed and attached those metal straps you see on top of the tank and then installed the deck.
So, I have been struggling to remove the eight screws holding the straps (with thick rubber strips underneath) out using a phillips driver bit and tiny 1/4" open end wrench.
I removed four of the buggers but the remaining ones now are almost seated against the bottom of the deck.

I'll need to cut off a portion of the screw and use, say a small pair of vice grips to continue to extract the screw.
Re-attaching the straps? Haven't got there yet.

[GoneFission]

Bob - just cut the straps.  When you put the tank back in, bend the straps up 90 degrees, drill a hole in each one, and put a long bolt through the holes.  Then tighten the nut on the bolt to secure the straps.  You can leave the screws on the sides as-is.  

 

Good luck!

[Capt. Bob]

John,
That makes sense. These "straps" are flat stock about 1/8" thick. Certainally not unbendable but it should probably be done in a vice.

I'm going to give it another try tonight and remove the 4 remaining screws. If the tank turns out to be good, I might still replace it due to it's age. I've kicked around several ideas and I'll feel better with a new tank underneath me.
I don't even know if I'll use those straps at this point but if I do, the bending and bolt idea will be used.

[Capt. Bob]

Well my son and I pulled out the tank tonight.
Here's what it looked like
You can clearly see the "waterline" around the tank



Here's one leak source.


This is the end facing the bow.


Here's the bow end of the coffin.


That's fuel and water.
There is a board glassed in that the tank sits on and it runs the length of the coffin but stops about 4" from each end. The idea (it appears) is that water can pass under the board from the front bilge to the rear bilge. Problem is, excess water piles up in the front, is then trapped in the rubber straps and, well you know the rest.
The tank, as usual is in great shape except where the water made contact in the bottom front face and under the first strap heading towards the stern.

Here's the coffin end facing the stern.


The bottom support board is a little closer (light area in center of photo is drain hole) but still allows water to come in contact with the tank. Corrosion was not too bad in this area though.

[Capt. Bob]

Here's one more showing the front third of the coffin from the top. The white areas on the straps is oxidized aluminum blended with fuel and water. :(


The wires on the right came from the sender. The green running along the bottom is the tank ground.
The side braces (which the top braces also attach) are coated with resin but no cloth. They are in good shape with no rot. There are two more toward the back.

You can access the hoses and drains under the seat quite easily with the tank out.
Too bad they stuck it right there.

Just curious.
Has anyone else seen this type of tank mounting in their boat?