250CCP learing how to use a forum

[doug42190]

I am very inexperienced at forums -- so I started on the CCP site but I feel like I sort of fell through the cracks -- or maybe everyone is busy -- does one just go back to where they started and "add a comment" or exactly how does one do this whole thing. I had assumed you just go to the last entry each time of where you left off -- but as I said, I have no experience. So, I appreciate all of your feedback and insights and tolerance while I learn the ropes.
I posted pictures last night and I will add some questions I have been wrestling with. Wiring, rigging motors, battery placement, wiring, isolators, etc. Paint/gelcoat is yet another area where I need some guidance.
In all, I am really excited about doing this project -- I just want to do it once, get it right as I go, and not have to redo too much stuff.
These pictures are when I brought it out of several years storage last month. After a good bath she was much more presentable as she cleaned up nicely. I will post new pictures that represent the progress thus far -- such as there has been and invite observations and suggestions.
I have 4 other various hulls that I have accumulated to refurbish and sell to fund my addiction and to provide cash for the Aquasport project -- a Dusky center console, a Molly Brown (sort of like a Whaler hull), a "knock off" of a Albemarle 25, and a Master Marine 28' center console -- if anyone remembers the Reverend Moon and his Blue Fin tuna boats -- he had 142 built and I have one of them. It is a very cool design and I would like to keep it but I made a deal with my wife to sell it when it is finished -- or before if the price was acceptable.
The Aquasport is the one I have decided to keep for myself -- I realize that it would have made more sense to practice on the others first (the Master Marine is 60% done), but I can't fish right now -- so the Aquasport is first.
Thanks for all the insight and encouragement. I hope it will be a cool project.
I have posted several pictures taken the day I brought it back home -- before it was given a bath and the fun began. I will next try to get some pictures of what I have done thus far and what I have discovered -- or need to be aware of. I appreciate all help and insight.
Thanks,
Doug

[Capt. Bob]

Doug,
DOCREED posted up on your other thread concerning the twin mercs. He has the same setup you're pondering. He can get you a lot of info.
I commented on the bracket and he has one too. PM him.

Good luck and throw a little bleach on the old gal.

[doug42190]

Thanks,
I'll go back to the other site and assume that you basically stick with where you start.
I really did bleach her well and man, what a difference that made. I'll try to update a few pictures to get some help with this project.
Thanks for steering me.
Doug

[doug42190]

Thanks for the suggestion about the gas. Unfortunately, there is about 60 or more gallons in there. I bought a holley "red" electric fuel pump (marine grade they claim), a fuel/water seperator and hooked the one side of the tank (set up for twin engines) to the filterm from the filter to the pump and from the pump back into the tank on the other side. I let it run for 8-10 hours and there was NO water or trash in the filter. I couldn't believe it. Put on a new filter and the same thing. The fuel is very strong gasoline smell -- very red like someone put gallons of Sta-bil in it -- runs beautifully in my John Deere, have run a tank and a half through my 1994 Mustang GT and 1 tank through my 2005 Lincoln -- nothing has missed a beat -- I also put 3 cans of SeaFoam in the boat tank and have had various people look at samples -- no one believes the gas is that old -- so far, I am just using it up. I run my recirculating pump from time to time and just keep emptyimg it out. So far I have used about 25 gallons and I still cannot budge the tank. I'm guessing I have another 25 or more still in there.
I have to cut the grass again this weekend, so I'll try another 4 or 5 gallons before I put anymore in the cars.
Do you know of any transom rebuilds anyone has done on a 250 CCP? I try to use the photo gallery but I find it very difficult to track any one project -- or to stay with any one series of photos -- perhaps it is just that I am not doing something right.
Do you have any insight as to the way to enclose the transom on a 250 CCP?
Thanks,
Doug

[damnitbadger]

Here is the transom rebuild on my 222 CCP. Research well Grasshopper!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1783

[doug42190]

Badger,
Thanks for the link. It was a great read. How long exactly did it take you? The coosa board -- once epoxied how well does it resist crushing? I have no experience with it so I was wondering how clamping a bracket through it affects it -- I guess not knowing the particulars of its density and stats, I just assumed it would crush fairly easily -- at least as compared to plywood. Aparently it holds up just fine. Is it difficult to saw or shape? Is it porus like some foam types of products? I have seen it advertised but I have no experience with it.
You really did a nice looking job -- how has it held up? Did you get that big motor you were wishing for?
Any other tips while I finish the removal and prep stage? I am considering pouring Arjay or Nida-Bond Cermaic Porable stuff -- had considered Seacast but the cost is pretty steep -- the others are about 2/3 that cost ($125 vs. $200). I was thinking about using a very narrow cap -- your appears to be 12" or so -- I was thinking about maybe 4" cap -- the 250CCP has side compartments port and starboard that would easily hold fuel filters, etc. My batteries are going in the console -- where are yours? My console is getting moved forward 15" -- I have the above deck fishbox -- it has been recessed 5" into the console so it will move forward a total of 10". That should help keep the fulcrum (?) at rougly the same point with the bracket and twins hung back there (trying to maintain the weight balance forward and aft).
Do you have any pictures of the stringers -- how did you tie them back in? Did you use knee braces or any additional support for the bracket? It doesn't look like it, just wondering. Did it sit any differently in the water or were you able to save some weight and additional flotation from the bracket even things out?
Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Doug

[damnitbadger]

Your post from the other thread
Badger,
Thanks for the link. It was a great read. How long exactly did it take you? The coosa board -- once epoxied how well does it resist crushing? I have no experience with it so I was wondering how clamping a bracket through it affects it -- I guess not knowing the particulars of its density and stats, I just assumed it would crush fairly easily -- at least as compared to plywood. Aparently it holds up just fine. Is it difficult to saw or shape? Is it porus like some foam types of products? I have seen it advertised but I have no experience with it.
You really did a nice looking job -- how has it held up? Did you get that big motor you were wishing for?
Any other tips while I finish the removal and prep stage? I am considering pouring Arjay or Nida-Bond Cermaic Porable stuff -- had considered Seacast but the cost is pretty steep -- the others are about 2/3 that cost ($125 vs. $200). I was thinking about using a very narrow cap -- your appears to be 12" or so -- I was thinking about maybe 4" cap -- the 250CCP has side compartments port and starboard that would easily hold fuel filters, etc. My batteries are going in the console -- where are yours? My console is getting moved forward 15" -- I have the above deck fishbox -- it has been recessed 5" into the console so it will move forward a total of 10". That should help keep the fulcrum (?) at rougly the same point with the bracket and twins hung back there (trying to maintain the weight balance forward and aft).
Do you have any pictures of the stringers -- how did you tie them back in? Did you use knee braces or any additional support for the bracket? It doesn't look like it, just wondering. Did it sit any differently in the water or were you able to save some weight and additional flotation from the bracket even things out?
Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Doug

(end)

http://www.coosacomposites.com/nautical.html
Man I just spent an hour replying and it got deleted prior to posting. starting over in this thread so not to hijack the CCP registry thread.
Coosa Bluewater 26 is a composite of high density foam and woven roven, once glassed crushing is not a problem. When you attach the bracket you will have an aluminum channel on the inside sandwiching the transom in the middle. With any transom your strength is not in the core but in the glass you laminate inside and out. Coosa will not saturate like ply though it is porous and it's 30 to 40 percent lighter than ply. It's easy to cut and shape and comes in a 1.5" thickness so you will not have to laminate two pieces together. One man can lower it into place were you will most likely need two for plywood. It will save you about 60-80 pounds (guesstimate). Your stringers are most likely U shaped channel filled with foam so no knee braces are necessary. Simply tie the stringers to the tramsom (once you have the inside transom glassed to a 1/4" or better) with about five or six layers of 1708, drill a small hole in each stringer and fill with foam. Glass over the hole and your done. The key is grinding back the old glass enough to get really good adhesion with the new glass. Epoxy is superior but poly resin will work fine though I found the epoxy easier to work with because it does not kick as fast and bonds better.

Research the pourables and you will conclude that it is inferior to a ply or composite cored transom. Especialy if you are going to hang a bracket and motor 36' off the back. D&D can custom manufacture a bracket to your specs with additional flotation for for less that most of the other manufacturers. http://dadmarine.com/index00.htm Thats my CCP in his pictures section.

Don't move the console until you get the transom done and the motors hung. She how she performs and sits in the water first. I think you will find it is fine where it is. don't move it until you finish the transom  My scuppers were on the waterline before and now they are 1.5" above the waterline and drains perfectly while at rest or under way. Get the batteries under the console. That back cap is 12" and a good place to sit while fishing. 4" will hurt your rear end :pirat: . It will also provide a space for cables, hoses, pumps, wiring and added dry storage Main thing is to research everything and make a list, organization is very important. This site, Classic Mako and other sites are a good place to start for details.



before new trasom

before glassing stingers to transom

after glassing

I cut the stringers where they were only 3/4" from the new transom so I would not have to large of a gap to bridge and tie to the new glass.

[RickK]

I moved and merged your posts into this topic where they should be - Doug please post here to continue your learning.
Damnitbadger, I am not sure if I can clean up that CCP topic if everyone keeps posting questions in there. I don't want to lose any valuable data but....

[doug42190]

RickK and others,
I sincerely apologize for putting my questions on the wrong part of the site. It was never my intention to do things inappropriately. Being new to this forum type of stuff I struggle with proper manners. I will continue on this "thread" so as not to be on one that is not designed for this type of question/answer. Thanks for getting me squared away and again, I am sorry for not catching on as to how and where earlier.
Badger,
Thanks for your reply. I am a bit old fashioned myself and these pourables really do sound like a lot less work, easier for us less experienced, but I cannot find enough comments to validate their claims or to really come to any serious conclusion about them. The plywood we know. I am just now learning about the coosa and I will continue to research. We are in the process of moving and that should all be completed in the next week. However, my shop and getting back to the project(s) at hand will take longer. That will give me time to research and put a plan together.
I will contact D&D about the bracket. I have another project going (I was paying professionals to do but 1.5 years later and no progress, so I am taking it home for me to finish) that has an Armstrong twins bracket on it. I really like the Armstrong but I don't like the hefty price tag. I know quality cost$ but the D&D looks solid to me -- at least in pictures.
Thanks for your input and let me know if you have other insights or suggestions.
Doug