73 19-6 little by little

[cwater]

I made my rod holders out of starboard and they are great except where they don't touch the side they tend to flex when I walk the gunnals

[flkeysaqua]

I made my rod holders out of starboard and they are great except where they don't touch the side they tend to flex when I walk the gunnals

What size did you make them out of? These are 3/4 and these are attached to the sides via 5200 if you sand the starboard with 220 grit sandpaper then lightly hit them with a propane torch NOT map gas 5200 will then stick to starboard. (haven't taking it out on the water yet but I think they should be better than the wood one IMHO)

[flkeysaqua]

Ok I know I haven't been supplying enough Aquaporn for you guys so here's a little for you guys.  Finally got my badges all painted up and installed.











And finally was able to take some pictures that show the water runs on the new paint job.

P.S. Rick's non-skid tip works great.

[gran398]

Strong! Very strong. Those boxes really turned out nice, and the hatches are the icing on the cake. Betcha can't wait for the upcoming reunion. Awesome job, keep posting.

[RickK]

But you didn't use gelcoat, correct?

[flkeysaqua]

No sir I use Pettit easypoxy loved the lay down and one step use of it before when I did my bottom paint so went back with it for the topside. And I think i could actually do a second coat over the non-skid and it wouldn't hide it but for now I'm going to leave well enough alone.

Thanks Gran unfortunately I more than likely am going to have to pass I just joined the Fire Department down here and my second class falls on May 15th so... Will keep you guys posted they have cancled the last class so hopefully they do it again.

[RickK]

So it sounds like you used part of my process, everything but the gelcoat eh?

[Skoot]

Sweeeeet! Man that looks good.  I see you removed  the 2 scuppers on the bow . Looks alot cleaner without them IMO.  Cant even tell they were there.  What did you fill the holes with.

.

[flkeysaqua]

Thanks skoot I think it looks a lot cleaner also I started by grinding the glass down enough to get two layers glass over top, then filled the underside with a round disc of 1/2inch marine grade plywood (leftover from the tank lid), and finished with two more layers on the bottom side.

Btw I'm thinking about painting the old rubrail for the time being, it kinda came by accident I left it on when I painted (didn't feel like dealing with it at the time) and now that is has paint on some of it I realized that it actually sticks really well and doesn't look like it will come off that easily.  What’s your guys opinion?

[flkeysaqua]

Ok so now the I'm back of course I need help lol a few weeks ago we had an ALS competition on Boot Key which now thanks to a falling apart draw bridge is an isolated Island.  I was using my boat with others to tender people back and forth from the City marina and Boot Key. A friend of mine hopped back on the boat to grab a drink and forgot to hold the dockline and drifted the stern in the mangrove with alot of mud. He proceeded to start my boat and power thru it     .  On the way back at the end of the day idling thru Boot Key habor I noticed that the motor was not pissing and the lower pan was smoking. I thought this was strange (not knowing what my friend had done) I shut her down for a few minutes and reversed the motor clearing the debris. The motor ran and runs fine at idle speeds but when I plane off the motor jumps and will not go above 3,200 rpm's it will stay there but if I try to throttle up it keeps jumping. Doesn't go into save mode just hesitates and jumps.

The motor is a 1991 evinrude 140

So for I've changed the plugs thinking they were fuel fowled (wasn't that)
changed the thermostats (no bueno)
did a compression test if memory serves its been a few weeks but I believe they were all 130 exactly
And I flushed the motor with the thermostats out


Please help guy I think I cooked the power pack but I don't want to spend $160.00 bucks if that's not it.

[slvrlng]

So there are no warning buzzers going off?

Could be he slammed it around enough that the timing is off now. Sounds like a fuel delivery issue also.

[flkeysaqua]

I don't think he ran aground the mud there is really deep so I don't think the motor got shook up. Here's my findings for troubleshooting the CDI powerpack

Engine Will Not Rev Above 2500 RPM and Shakes Hard (SLOW Activated):
1. Verify the engine is not actually over-heating by using a digital pyrometer.
2. Check the routing of the tan temperature wires, an example of a bad location is shown below. The tan wires have
to be located as far away as possible from the spark plug wires.
3. Disconnect the temperature sensors and see if the engine performs normally. If it does, check both temperature
sensors and replace the defective one.
4. If there is not any indication of a problem at this point, replace the power pack.
Note: Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that require checking or low cranking speed.

My only issue with this is my engine will rev up to 3200 RPM but does this exactly what is discribed.            

[flkeysaqua]

On an unrelated note I've been thinking about replacing my transom soon, just for piece of mind.
My issues are as follows.
1. I do want to eventually raise the transom and close it in, however I don't have a bracket or a new(er) full shaft motor yet.
2. Can I pour the transom to the stock height now and raise it later?
3. I've heard that it is not reccomended to mount an outboard bracket on a poured transom, which is the route I will be going once I buy a new(er) motor.

And feedback in this matter would be awesome.

[RickK]

I've heard that it is not reccomended to mount an outboard bracket on a poured transom, which is the route I will be going once I buy a new(er) motor.

That makes no sense since the transoms were poured on AS since at least '92 (mine is)

[gran398]

First thing...welcome back to the fold flkeysaqua...been a good while.  Always a respected presence here. Welcome home.

The motor concerns...no biggee. Hopefully Fitz see's you're earlier post and will expound.

The poured transom.... Poured transoms when executed correctly can be as good as any. Bondobill's transom rebuild (recent post) made me a believer.

Rick is correct IMHO..the factory-spec poured transom was a step above at the time...and bottom line, no rotten plywood down the road. Mount away if she is sound.