'78 19-6 FF Scupper Issues

[jethrosixxx]

I want to keep my '78 19-6 FF in a slip this year.  The issue is my scuppers are underwater at rest.  I could permanently plug them, put an automatic bilge pump in the little well inside the transom (i have another automatic bilge pump in the bilge) and cut new scupper holes in each aft corner even with the sole - or??  

btw my transom is solid seacast and i would still coat the inside of the new holes in the transom with resin or epoxy.  any ideas??

[Marcq]

Hey Jet, how often will you be able to take/check the boat while in the slip? And how well is your sole/deck sealed?

Marc..

[jethrosixxx]

Marc,

I'll see the boat everyday and sole/deck is watertight.  The lid over the fuel tank is caulked and the bolts for the seats are caulked and the bilge isn't getting any water in it on the trailer.

[LilRichard]

That's really a tough call.  I know it is not reasonable, but the right way to do that is to raise the deck.  If you plug the scuppers, you are obviously relying on just mechanical pumps... which I don't trust.

If you do go that route, I would have a few pumps, and wire them to separate batteries on separate switches.  Not saying that is ideal, but it at least helps.

[Marcq]

Marc,

I'll see the boat everyday and sole/deck is watertight.  The lid over the fuel tank is caulked and the bolts for the seats are caulked and the bilge isn't getting any water in it on the trailer.

Then I wouldn't worry about it, just use those brass/rubber plug to plug those scuppers temporaly(when you're not there), of course, unless the forcast is for 3 inches of rain

Marc..

[jethrosixxx]

That's really a tough call.  I know it is not reasonable, but the right way to do that is to raise the deck.  If you plug the scuppers, you are obviously relying on just mechanical pumps... which I don't trust.

If you do go that route, I would have a few pumps, and wire them to separate batteries on separate switches.  Not saying that is ideal, but it at least helps.

wouldn't glassing over the existing scupper holes and cutting new, higher ones have a similar effect?

[jethrosixxx]

Marc,

I'll see the boat everyday and sole/deck is watertight.  The lid over the fuel tank is caulked and the bolts for the seats are caulked and the bilge isn't getting any water in it on the trailer.

Then I wouldn't worry about it, just use those brass/rubber plug to plug those scuppers temporaly(when you're not there), of course, unless the forcast is for 3 inches of rain

Marc..

i'll have to figure this one out!!

[RebelYell]

..

I am replacing the cheap rubber-flapped scuppers on my 1990 200 Osprey with those "ball-type" scuppers. I have used rubber stoppers up until now. But here in FL a flash afternoon cloudburst can sink a boat if the scuppers are plugged and you don't have an automatic bilge working.... :cry:

I'll get back to ya'll and let you know how those work. Supposedly, you can twist off the outer housing and clean out any crud that accumulates that would prevent the floating ball from seating against the silicone seal. I read in one of the fishing mags where a guide in Costa Rica was praising the ball-type scupper "check valve"  covers.

I paid like $10.00 / ea for mine over at Boaters World. I'll be installing them over the next couple of weeks; once I get my final finish coats done on my boat.

It seems like all Aquasports of earlier vintage have this problem. I've seen the same thing on Makos as well.

 8)

[LilRichard]

That's really a tough call.  I know it is not reasonable, but the right way to do that is to raise the deck.  If you plug the scuppers, you are obviously relying on just mechanical pumps... which I don't trust.

If you do go that route, I would have a few pumps, and wire them to separate batteries on separate switches.  Not saying that is ideal, but it at least helps.

wouldn't glassing over the existing scupper holes and cutting new, higher ones have a similar effect?

If you raise the scuppers 1.5", then you'll have to build 1.5" of water before they drain, right?  By then, I will bet the boat will have squatted 1.5" due to the weight of the water, again placing the scuppers below water level.

 

[jethrosixxx]

If you raise the scuppers 1.5", then you'll have to build 1.5" of water before they drain, right?  By then, I will bet the boat will have squatted 1.5" due to the weight of the water, again placing the scuppers below water level.

 

short answer: no.

my boat does not have a "splash well" in front of the motor.

there is a "well" in the floor just inside the transom, about 4 inches wide (measuring away from the transom), 36 inches long (measuring along the transom) and 4 inches deep.  the lower engine mounting bolts' nuts are accessed in that well along with the scuppers on either side.

i'm thinking of glassing over the current scupper holes, installing an automatic bilge pump in the "well" and cutting new scuppers wholes even with the deck in the corners.

if i had some pics this'd be easier!  

[RebelYell]

..

T-H Marine Flow Max Ball Scupper :



You can buy it here : http://www.boatersworld.com/product/356975243.htm

Hope this helps !  :viking:

[jethrosixxx]

..

T-H Marine Flow Max Ball Scupper :



You can buy it here : http://www.boatersworld.com/product/356975243.htm

Hope this helps !  :viking:

that's what i have now.  they're underwater when resting at the dock, making the "self-bailing cockpit" concept null and void!!

[flkeysaqua]

Not for nothing but what size motor do you have I also have a 19-6 but its a 73 and unless my fat self is at the back of the boat my scuppers are level with the water (half tank) with a 140 evinrude And if you glass over the existing one and made new ones on the corner of the transom I wouldn't worry about the little about of water that would sit in that well

[jethrosixxx]

I found a pic of my transom and "well" on a sister ship on this thread.  5th pic down.

http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3824

[jethrosixxx]

Let's try some pics of my own!!  That's a Craig's list motor I never got running right.  I replaced it with a rebuilt 135 Mariner.  The rear bench weighs about 50 lbs. including the life vests (only!) I keep in it.