need evinrude outboard help in South FL

[aqua719]

1986 osprey with an 1992 Evinrude 200XP.  I brought the boat to a local mechanic for what I thought was going to be some minor stuff, to replace the hydraulic steering seals and to check out the timing,(it has been running a rough).  The problem is that he came back to tell me that someone had broken the ends of toothpicks off inside the carbs, not sure if it was the jets or really where it was, but said someone did that to fatten it up and messed with the timing to get it to run decent and in the process broke the timing arm. on top of that, says the voltage regulator is bad and not charging, as well as no tach.  Need a another opinion!!!  

[Capt. Bob]

Where to start
Toothpicks in the carbs. Haven't heard that before. If they're in there, they need to come out.
Voltage regulators do go bad, many times from having loose battery connections (read wing nuts).
Many things can make a motor run rough.

Here's a good place to gain valuable insight into your motor.http://bbcboards.zeroforum.com/zeroforum?id=51
Read all the rules before posting. They've been helpful when I work on my 'Rude.

[bdtsr]

How mechanicly inclined are you?

There are some simple tests you can do for the electrical issues.

Carbs are not all that hard to rebuild.

The timing pickups (adjustment knobs) get brittle and do break, not to hard to change.

[aqua719]

have done work on my old chevy block, but really don't know much about marine motors, this is my first and still learning.  found a link online for the parts, service, and owners manuels, and was going to start there.  In addition to the carb problems and the voltage regulator gone bad, it drained one of my batterys, the power pac is on the fritz, bad thermostats, and the motor won't come out of quickstart mode. So, if I have to put around $800 - 1000 into the motor, does it make more sense to look at repowering now? rather then dump $$ into the old one?
   

[bdtsr]

How long have you had the boat/motor? From what you're saying, repairing a motor of this age really isn't cost effective. If the power head were new then maybe. If you had plenty of spare parts then well, maybe. Your motor burns 15-18gph. If you use your boat year round, between the repair costs and fuel, repowering would be very cost effective. Most new 200hp DI 2 strokes and four stroke are burining 9-10gph. Doesn't take long for the savings to add up. Also, a newer motor will raise the value of the boat and should be more reliable. Check eBay, there were quite a few motors in Fl for sale.

[Capt. Bob]

have done work on my old chevy block, but really don't know much about marine motors, this is my first and still learning.  found a link online for the parts, service, and owners manuels, and was going to start there.  In addition to the carb problems and the voltage regulator gone bad, it drained one of my batterys, the power pac is on the fritz, bad thermostats, and the motor won't come out of quickstart mode. So, if I have to put around $800 - 1000 into the motor, does it make more sense to look at repowering now? rather then dump $$ into the old one?
   

 It sounds to me as if you're trying to rationalize buying a new motor. I know, because I do it all the time.
That said, a new motor, controls and gauges will cost some big coin these days and you still have an old hull. You could look for a newer model 'rude and try and utilize as much of your existing controls as possible along with the prop/s you may have.

What are you thinking of re-powering with (let's pretend money doesn't count)?
A new 2 stroke or 4 stroke?
Is your transom up to the task of a heavier motor?
Will you use the boat enough to justify the cost?

If it were me, the very first thing I'd do is a compression check on your existing motor. Ask your mechanic if he has done one, or do it yourself.
This is going to be a base indicator in determining which route to take. The parts and problems you have listed on your motor are common ailments usually caused by little use and poor maintenance. They are easily remedied and cost a fraction compared to re-powering.  Not pointing fingers, just stating fact.

Good luck and ain't owning a boat grand?

[RickK]

Good luck and ain't owning a boat grand?

Break
Out
Another
Thousand

Sorry, couldn't control myself.

[bdtsr]

Here's a few newer motors to look at. While not new, they may be a better base to work with. Your 1986 225hp is a 2.6 liter and only made for that year. 1987s were 2.7 liter and 1988 an on were 3.0 liter. Electronics are the same.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-Joh ... iesQ5fGear

1990 model that may be an inexpensive way to go

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-Joh ... iesQ5fGear

Mercury Motors

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-Mer ... iesQ5fGear

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercury- ... iesQ5fGear

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-Mer ... iesQ5fGear

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-MER ... iesQ5fGear

[Capt. Bob]

Your 1986 225hp is a 2.6 liter and only made for that year.

I though he had a 1992 200xp.  
His hull is an 86.

[bdtsr]

My bad. Brain and fingers were on two different pages!

[aqua719]

it's a 1992 200XP,  If $ were no object, I would go to a bigger boat!  I use the boat year round at least twice a month since i'm here in FL so I guess I'm trying to justify going new.  the transom is solid and could handle the weight, but when I look at the big picture, I think I might be better fixing the few things with this motor.  He did a compression check and all cylinders are strong, the lower end was recently serviced.  your right, in that the volt reg, power pac, soleniod are things that do go bad with time and neglect.  all these are original parts, so I guess it's about time.  So for a few hundred in parts, I'll run it till it dies and repower then.  Thanks for all the input!

[bdtsr]

Power pack is about 350 or so. Bought one 5 years ago.
Timer base is about 350 also. Bought one 3 years ago.
Stator is about 400. Last time I looked.


If the motor is not charging, check the output of the stator. No tach usually means the stator is shot. Tach signal is the gray wire and the tach runs off the charging side of the alternator pulses. There are two yellow (I believe) wires going to the regulator from the stator. Disconnect them from the terminal block and with the engine running you should have 20+ volts AC on the two wires. The regulator changes the AC to DC. If you don't have that voltage coming out of the stator then it's shot. Look at the stator under the flywheel, is there brown goo coming out any where? Brown goo is not good. Check the magnets under the flywheel also. The do come loose.

[Capt. Bob]

it's a 1992 200XP,   So for a few hundred in parts, I'll run it till it dies and repower then.  Thanks for all the input!

The XP was the "HO" of its day and those motors were "loop charged" (hence known as "loopers") so when its running right, it should fly. "Loopers" are very finicky about running at the proper temp. I would replace the thermostats (small ticket item) while you got it on the bench.

Good luck.

[aqua719]

ok, replaced the thermostats, both were shot, now the motor comes out of quick start, power pac seems to be working and the regulator is charging, still no tach. checked the gray wire and connections.    Took apart the carbs and removed the toothpicks stuck in the idle jets.  Now the motor won't run.  put the toothpicks back in for an experiment and it starts right up and purrs like a kitten.. ????  What are the jet sizes that sre suposed to be in there?  The idles are 28 and the seconds are 32.  Never heard that the engine runs better with toopicks in the jets!

[RickK]

Ask this guy - http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl