Raising the transom on a 19'6"

[obsessed]

I,m Looking for some advice, ideas.
I would like to raise the sides of the transom up to help prevent water coming over the top.  I really liked the look of the transom on the 76 22' that was posted on ebay(the one with the yellow hull). They brought the transom height up parallel with the gunnels and built in a splash well.
My question: should I use fiberglass or the transom filler I have read about on classic mako,(seacast)
any and all ideas would be helpfull
Thanks

[MarshMarlowe196]

-Are you looking to raise the transom up completely flush with the gunwale on the stern?  I'm sure thats possible, but then, I assume, you'd have to buy a bracket to mount the outboard, being that the transom would then be too high to mount an outboard (if you intend on powering the boat with an outboard...)

I just rebuilt and raised the transom 5" on my 19-6 to accomodate a new motor...  I did it the old fashioned way:  high quality wood, woven and mat fiberglass, resin, bondo, paint, elbowgrease.   I remember the original transom having some curves on the sides that dipped down where the motor was intended to be mounted, but I just built up on top of those and raised it 5" from the lowest point, so now it's completely flush all the way across the transom.  Plus, it's much thicker and seemingly stronger now.

Since doing that, I haven't had any problems with water washing into the boat after coming off plane, and I don't feel it's necessary to add a bulky splashwell.  If you'd like details/pictures of the rebuild, let me know.

[RickK]

I know what you're talking about - leaving the motor at it's present height and building the sides of the transom up around the motor to gunnel height.  I've seen a lot of crappy ways to do it, although the end result worked, just looked like crap, e.g. starboard, bare plywood, I've even seen some rubber.
Is your transom shot?  If so, now you have a few options: 1) rebuild the transom to the height your motor needs (20 or 25 inch is the most common) with either wood, composite or pourable AND build the transom up along the sides as you described to avoid backwash 2) build it enclosed like Badonquasport196 and hang a bracket/motor on it.

If your transom is sound, then you've got a much harder task ahead to make it sound AND pleasing to the eye without tearing the whole thing out.

[MarshMarlowe196]

I have to agree, to make it pretty, it's labor intensive.  Took me about 2 weeks working on it after work and all day on the weekends, but it was definitely worth it.  My transom was sound to start with, so I just built on top of it, but it really wasn't THAT hard compared to some jobs I've seen.  It's now thicker, taller, stronger and much better looking than it was.  Wasn't too bad.

[consie67]

Love to see the pix & proceedure for transom raising project. thanks Cons

[MarshMarlowe196]

Here's the link to the post-

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3737

The pictures were taken with a circa 2008 cellphone, so sorry about the quality  

Here's a better picture of the finished transom-


The transom is still as solid today as it was after the rebuild in 08'... Though, if you plan on keeping your Aqua for good long while, I wouldn't recommend rebuilding the transom the way I did.  I didn't plan on keeping the boat long when I did that rebuild.  Since the transoms in these boats are cored with wood, you'll most likely have to rip out a rebuild like mine and start over eventually.  With the amount of work involved either way, I'd just go with the pour method or cut out the original transom and start from scratch.

[Curious]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding my transom.  I have a thread going called 78 22 FF Transom Rebuild.  I chose to dig out my rotten core with the drill/chain saw method and refilled last weekend with Nida Core pourable transom compound.  My first choice would have been to bring the new transom up to the gunnel height and mount a bracket.  But I couldn't afford to purchase the Nida and a bracket, glass and finish the transom and besides I have a 200 Yamaha Salt water series ready to bolt on, (20" shaft).  So although I would have liked to go higher and even just raise the motor height, I could only afford to basically bring the transom back to original.

I ended up with about three extra gallons of the Nida Core and in hindsight I really should have built up the inner and outer fiberglass skins and poured the sides up some more, kind of like built in splashwells.  I mention all this because if you have a total transom rebuild in your future I would recommend the pourable method and then you can build the sides up as high as you want.  If you have a solid transom now, then I don't think you can just add the pourable on top of the existing material, even if you ground down to the wood, prepped and poured on top of it.

[gran398]

Welcome!

Curious did his homework and got a quality job. Thanks again to Bondobill for the great direction and pics of the procedure.

Last thing you want to do is leave the old plywood in place. The rot is at the VERY bottom, all of the transom rebuilders here can give witness.

[consie67]

Thanks, MarshM.
good pix & interesting technique. The applied rear panel is a solid idea and the subtle bulge effect is kinda cool.
My old 19.6 has an older, quality transom rebuild, so I am going to just raise it up to fit my 25" re-power. I am cutting a 3/4" X 3" deep channel or mortise, in the top of the transom and then will slot in a fitted piece of 3/4" ply. Then 1/2" ply sandwich on front & back, lots of mat & roving to finish. Maybe a 3/16" SS bolting plate on the inboard side. Pix to follow. Thanks to all. Cons.

[MarshMarlowe196]

The reason why I raised my transom the way I did was the original transom was and is solid and dry.  My 19-6 saw very little use before I owned it.  If your transom was already rebuilt, then it will be cheaper and maybe a little easier to raise your transom the way Pops & I did.  I figure mine's been solid this long, it will probably be solid for years to come.  Make sure you have a good seal around your drain plug and scuppers- that's where most of the water intrusion and bottom rot that was referred to comes from.

Maybe a 3/16" SS bolting plate on the inboard side. Pix to follow. Thanks to all. Cons.

I have the same on mine-


Good luck  

[consie67]

Nice. Thanks. Cons

[Defender]

Check out the pics on my 19-1 rebuild just put in a full hight transom not finished yet but will show you the look on basicly the same size boat.
floor is going in tonight