Replacing thru hulls on a mid-80s 222 CCP

[Hardwater]

One of the off-season upgrades I'm considering is replacing the original plastic thru hull fittings on a 1986 222 CCP with cast stainless versions.

The aft thru hull drain fitting on the port side looks like a PIA to get at - starboard side doesn't seem as bad.  I haven't looked at what kind of job replacing the forward thru hull on the starboard side will be.

The bilge pump thru hull shouldn't be too bad once the stern gunwale cap on that side is removed - but I may be wrong on that.

Has anyone done this job on a similar hull?  How did it go?

[Capt. Bob]

I replaced my transom thru hulls but not the one that drains the coffin box.
You need a long arm and patience.

[Hardwater]

I replaced my transom thru hulls but not the one that drains the coffin box.
You need a long arm and patience.

Capt. Bob - thanks for getting back.  So the thru hulls for the cockpit drains ran through the transom on 1984 CCPs?  Sounds like that might be at least a little easier to deal with.  On the '86, the drain fittings are low on each side just ahead of the transom.

How long did it take you to swap out both thru hulls?  Do you remember whether the hose barbs were 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"?

[Capt. Bob]

I replaced my transom thru hulls but not the one that drains the coffin box.
You need a long arm and patience.

Capt. Bob - thanks for getting back.  So the thru hulls for the cockpit drains ran through the transom on 1984 CCPs?  Sounds like that might be at least a little easier to deal with.  On the '86, the drain fittings are low on each side just ahead of the transom.

How long did it take you to swap out both thru hulls?  Do you remember whether the hose barbs were 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"?

I was not very clear in my statement in that I used. The drains do not run through the transom but like yours, just in front of the transom. Sorry about that.
Anyway, I was able to replace all three and I believe they're 1 1/2" for the drains. Working with a helper is the key for these replacements. I did not however replace the fittings in the deck. As far as time to complete, well that was 12 years ago and I really don't remember but I would give yourself the better part of a day. You'll want to let the sealant cure before you attach the hoses so it's not something you do the night before going out.

Good luck

[Hardwater]

CB - Just looking at it - a helper definitely makes sense.  Since the outside of the current thru hull drain port has an inside diameter of 1 1/4", seems an 1 1/2" hose barb on the inside makes sense, too.  First Aqausport I've owned (and I LIKE it) so just giving a shot at going to school on someone that's already been there.  

Maybe it's just me, but trusting 22-year-old plastic thru hull fittings seems risky for the way I want to use this boat.

I hear ya on giving the sealant time to cure.  This is an off season move - and the 'off' season here lasts...oh...a coupla months  .

Appreciate the response...maybe I can pay it forward someway to someone else down the road.  Thanks again.

[hntrss]

While we are on this topic, how do the deck drains work?  A friend with a ccp had to remove them after hanging a four stroke suzuki on his,  I believe water was coming back in them.  He moved them to the transom and above the water line.

[rsh19904]

just be sure to use brass fittings..plastic is just to risky and will eventually need to be replaced and it sounds like its not an easy job

[compcrasher86]

Honestly, I would beg to differ. I like the plastic ones better because do not corrode and they seem much more fit for the sea life. Also If you ever have to replace them again, they are nice and cheap! I got mine for like $12 each and mine has a two year gurantee on it. I know they will last longer.

If you have brass piping in your boat, use a brass fitting, do not mix brass and plastic! I would suggest plastic for any above-hulls but I am not sure which is more reliable for below hulls.

I would imagine that a brass fitting to which you thread or weld a pipe to will hold better than a plastic hose with a hose clamp.

[Capt. Bob]

While we are on this topic, how do the deck drains work?  A friend with a ccp had to remove them after hanging a four stroke suzuki on his,  I believe water was coming back in them.  He moved them to the transom and above the water line.

They work on simple head pressure. When the deck is higher than the water level on the outside of the boat, the weight of the water on the deck forces itself out into the bay, ocean, lake, bathtub or whatever. They work best while underway.  
Mine always allows water to enter whenever I launch so...

I insert expandable plugs into the drain holes on deck. This keeps the deck dry under most conditions. If you dive a lot or swim and ski and go in and out of the boat via the water, you will bring in water. Same thing happens when it rains.

Weight challenged outboards as well as a Captain and crew will also let water enter when everyone moves to the stern.

The plugs work excellent and if I have a fair amount of water on the deck (for  reasons noted above) I remove the plugs while underway and the deck drains very quickly.
This all predisposes that your craft is properly trimmed.

Good Luck and watch the Twinkies.

[hntrss]

Seems like, since the boat is opened up, w/no motor and the livewell removed, it would be a good idea to relocate them above the waterline.  I  haven't decide on power yet, but 4 stroke is a definite possibility.

[Hardwater]

Been out of town the last week...and see there are a few more posts.

Couple of things....

Bob - Very good explanation on how the cockpit drains function.

My hull still has the original 1988 Merc 200 2-stroke - a fairly light weight (around 350 - 360 lbs.?) outboard compared to current 4-strokes and even newer 2-strokes.  With 6 passengers on board there has not been any backwash through the cockpit sole drain scuppers.  With a newer, heavier motor, I can see where that might change.

Choice of material for thru-hull drains - The plastic thru-hulls on this hull are 22-years-old.  That seems like a lot of years on critical plastic fittings.  While many builders have routinely used plastic thru-hulls, they just don't give me a lot of confidence.  If one breaks in snotty conditions, that's a problem...an even bigger problem if it happens somewhere like Lake Superior where water temps tend to be in the 50-60 degree range during the warmest part of the year.

A lot of things can happen, but for piece of mind on the thru-hulls - properly sealed cast stainless steel seems to make the most sense...a once and done replacement.  Just my 2 cents.

[Capt. Bob]

Seems like, since the boat is opened up, w/no motor and the livewell removed, it would be a good idea to relocate them above the waterline.

Why

As long as the deck is above the waterline, the drains work.
Putting them higher above the waterline may in fact make them higher than the deck. That means that the water on the deck doesn't flow off the deck until it reaches a level higher than the one you set the drain at.

With the motor on the boat and both in the water, try measuring the difference in elevation between the deck at its farthest rear location and the waterline. I think you will be surprised :o

[hntrss]

In your previous post you said if everyone is at the stern, water came in the scuppers.  All of my fishing is at anchor, and most often, everyone will be at the stern.  So if I have a 4 stroke and 3 men, most likely my drains would be backfilling into the boat, no? If I plug them, I would have problems with washdown, sloshing livewells and such.  I understand  your point about the deck level, but if that is the case, wouldn't the motor well be completely submerged, causing much bigger problems than wet feet?
Remember, I have never been on this, or any other ccp in the water.  My friend relocated his scuppers and said it solved the problem.  I will try to get pictures of his install to show you.  Thanks again for the input.

[Capt. Bob]

In your previous post you said if everyone is at the stern, water came in the scuppers.  All of my fishing is at anchor, and most often, everyone will be at the stern.  So if I have a 4 stroke and 3 men, most likely my drains would be backfilling into the boat, no? If I plug them, I would have problems with washdown, sloshing livewells and such.  I understand  your point about the deck level, but if that is the case, wouldn't the motor well be completely submerged, causing much bigger problems than wet feet?
Remember, I have never been on this, or any other ccp in the water.  My friend relocated his scuppers and said it solved the problem.  I will try to get pictures of his install to show you.  Thanks again for the input.

hntrss,
It's really not a true comparison between my CCP and the standard model. I have a full bracket which moves the motor 26 inches father out from the transom. While the bracket has a flotation chamber where the motor mounts, it probably causes the hull to squat (just a little) at rest.

If you look in the Photo Gallery (which by the way has still not recovered fully) :cry: under Capt. Bob, you will see what I'm talking about. Look closely at the photo "Karl and ROM3. You can see this squat and the starboard drain at the rear quarter of the hull. Notice that it is half submerged.

Now look at the photo "Deck Drain". It was taken from above so it's somewhat hard the visualize but the thru hull drain is higher than the bottom of the deck drain. This is due to the fact that the deck drain is a 90 degree fitting and extends downward and that the deck is very low to begin with in this craft. This means that there is always water in that hose, whether the boat is in the water or not unless it has been unused, (dry docked) and the water has evaporated. It just like the drain under your home sink.

OK, with all that said you are right, it's a compromise at best to use the plugs but one that works very well for me. Also, the splash (motor) well is higher than the deck. You will see this when you look at the well from the deck side. The bigger problem one faces with the stock hull and greater weight astern is in a following sea. The well has several access plates and a live well ( my model). These are prone to leaking directly into the bilge. I have sealed the well and replaced the "pop out" plates with "screw in" types. The pop out plates will do just that in a heavy sea and cause the Captain great distress.

Last but not least, IMHO the best solution to this "problem"  would be to drain the deck into the bilge. That way, the bilge pump handles water from the deck (it leaks down there anyway) and you don't worry about plugs, more holes in the transom, hose failure from the present system as well as "fitting phobia" that some skippers have. Seem like a win-win situation to me but for now, I'm keeping mine stock.

Good luck with yours.

PS.... Please keep in mind that these are light hulls and can be powered by smaller outboards. This can help with the weight but more importantly with fuel costs

[hntrss]

on the subject of power, how does yours perform with the 200?  What do you feel is minimum acceptable power?