22-2 in Jensen Beach

[love2fish]

I just picked up a 22-2 on Monday and am eager to get started working on the boat. The transom has already been closed in but still needs some layering on the exterior to level it out with the original glass. They cut the stringers back a few inches like everyone else does so I need to connect the original stringers (which seem dry) to the transom with stingers/knee's right? Also, do these come originally with 2 below deck tanks?
sure to be the first of many posts. Thanks in advance.

[compcrasher86]

I mean I guess it depends on the year and the version (inboard or outboard) but my outboard version came with one tank and its all stock. Maybe the inboard version required the extra tank or something or maybe  it was installed by one of the previous owners.

[love2fish]

72' Aquasport 22-2
,
after removing the console and the main tank deck/cover

Top of the "new" transom

exterior of the transom

some of the interior bonding of the new transom with the original gunwale

[love2fish]

finally got a proper cover for the boat today where it will stay dry and I can work on it in the shade.  I pulled the center console out and then took the coffin cover (hope thats the correct term) off the gas tank compartment yesterday.  The boat has 2 gas tanks, one in the center of the sole under the console. The 2nd is what I think is an auxillary tank that is below the deck between the front of the console and back of the casting deck. I removed the 100 or so bolts holding the rubrail on today and started working on the bolts for the cap before a thunderstorm forced me inside. tomorrow I plan on finishing the cap removal and getting started working on removing the liner. The previous owner had what he said was "alot of people work on the boat" which explains some of the jewels I've found so far like: a strip of fiberglass holding the running light wiring to the bottom of the cap, garden hose attatched to the front casting deck compartment that is then routed up to the bottom of the running lights, spray foam holding in the main (black plastic TEMPO) gas tank that has regular grey duct tape tunning along the bottom of each side of the tank. It goes without saying I have some serious work ahead of me.

[compcrasher86]

I can safely say that the main tank under the sole is not stock. I can tell it has been replaced and carelessly foamed in. The vent line looks different as well. Holes have been drilled under the console that werent originally there for wires/hoses to pass through. The auxilary tank in the front sounds odd as well and I imagine it was added when the original 62 gallon internal tank was removed, because the tank coffin originally had wooden panels that one could easily cut out/remove, then you pretty much have good access to the front area. Somebody must have thought to add the tank in there as a backup or something. How do you fill up the two tanks and select between the two tanks?

also, based on the first picture, the exterior of the boat looks like it is in great shape, I hope you have fun with the project

p.s., I have a '73 22-2 and it is amazing, best ride I have ever had in an aquasport.

[love2fish]

Comp: ehhh,,, its a mixture of the gunwales being in really good shape but the bottom of the hull has a hole about the size of a salad plate on the starboard side half way back. They also painted the bottom of the hull with some kind of black "roll-on" paint that is badly peeling.
Gas tanks: the black gas tank in the pictures has the silver manufacture's tag on it. It was made in September of '99.  There's alot of mistery holes drilled thoughout the boat i will take better pictures of once i get the tank out. Both the gas tanks had their gas line routed up into the center console where there was a diverter (like a water lever to choose which line fed the engine. Scary since they also had 2 battery's and ALOT of electrical connections/switches in the console. There is a gas fill on both the port and starboard side of the cap. one looks original, the other definately is added.
I am very eager to get the liner off the boat so I can see what the stringers are like underneath. I have a folder on my computer of all the funny "what were they thinking" stuff I have found on the boat.
Luckily the transom is rock solid and seems to be very strong. I still have some fiberglass work to do to the exterior of the transom to level it out and make sure the holes are all plugged up.

[compcrasher86]

ahh, i myself had some hull issues, but it was purely out of the original owners abuse of her. Grind the area around the hole down a ton and then what i did was chalk the trailer and tilt the whole trailer with boat on it so that the boat was at a 45 degree angle (be careful of your skeg on your engine whilst doing this) and hold it up with a plank or two of wood. From there you can reglass and the gravity wont be working against you as much as if you were upside down. I redid it with 6 or 7 layers of glass and it looks amazing once I sanded everything down and painted it. Pictures on my work log will be up eventually.

The fill cap on port is most likely the added one whereas the one on starboard is the original one. Obviously you know that but I am just pointing out what I am assuming. Honestly, there is no harm in having that extra tank, in fact I would keep it. I guess as long as the fuel selector doesnt leak, it is safe to have in the console, but for peace of mind you could relocate it somewhere below deck and add an access hatch to get to it. I hope your stringers are in good shape and the best in luck with getting the liner off. Please do take pictures while doing so because our boats are so similar so I would like to have an idea of what I will be in for when I do it.

Also, you would be surprised that some of those "jewels" you mentioned are quite common. My 22-2 has gone unmodified since it left the factory and it as well has strips of fiberglass holding the running lights wires. It must have been cheaper than using cable clips. One thing i dont understand is why they routed the front navigation lights to an open terminal block at the back. I re-routed mine through where the original fuel fill is and under into the console. My original 62 gallon tank is held in by spray foam as well, it was the aquasport way, but I can promise you that the foam causes nothing but troubles. Little pieces break off and clog the bilge and it is extremely annoying. My front compartment drains to the thru-hull in the front (yours has it too) so it confuses me why the hose is routed forwards to the running lights. Is your thru-hull connected to anything? As for mine, the front compartment is insulated and it has a nice brass drain with a filter and a plug which leads through some thick heavy-duty greenish striped hose to the thru-hull in the side, it works amazingly. Everything that is still left on my boat is stock (the windshield and bars were removed and the helm seats were replaced with a cooler bench) so you can check out my thread (Aquasport 22-2 Rebuild Work Log) if you want some reference pictures. Also, if you would like me to send you pictures of a specific area, send me a PM and I will bring my camera next time i am out on the water

oh one other thing. The transom looks good and strong (always good) but with the way the new transom was configured, you are going to have to mount your motor on a bracket (portabracket, etc) just giving you something to think of in advance. What are you thinking of powering her with? the max hp is 150 and ive got 140 which is hell-a-fast for me

[LilRichard]

L2F - what is your transom layup?  How many layers of glass, what kind of wood, etc?

[love2fish]

LR- I didnt do the work myself, so I'm going on what the other owner said which was 2 layers of marine grade 3/4" with glass inbetween and on both "out"sides" It seems like they removed any of the original wood that was against the hull glass and then added 2 full size pieces(gunwale to gunwale and keel to top)because there is still about a 3/16 area on the exterior that I need to add glass to to fill it in/make 1 smooth surface on the transom. I still need to fab the knees once I get everything below the deck and around the stringers checked out.
Should I add another layer of wood to the transom or do you think I'm OK? it feels really strong/ and theres a good amount of glass on the corners and bottom seams

[LilRichard]

Sounds reasonable... I would just make sure it is tabbed in well - you hate to trust someone else's work if you don't have to (unless you know the person and/or it is well documented).  Add a few extra strips of tabbing for some peace of mind, and forget about it.

[Mad Dog]

L2F,

It looks like you have about 2" of transom thickness.  That should be plenty.  You said that you intend to add knee braces, as long as those are well laminated to the transom and the stringers you are good to go.  Some of us that closed the transom on rebuilds also added a transom bulkhead which ties into the knee braces and the hull.  That would give you more than enough strength to hang an engine on a bracket.

MD  

[love2fish]

Got the liner pulled and got gas tank out of the bow. It was just foamed in also. Got to work yesterday grinding down some of the areas where there were holes drilled in the hull for drainage. While the hull in in pretty good shape on the exterior and the stringers all seem dry, there is some delamination along the outside of each stringer just under where the console is. Here's some pictures, sorry if they are a little hazzy, I think there was still some fiberglass dust floating around.

From the transom looking forward, you can see the forward bulk head I've started to remove so I can move the new tank forward.


Close up of the forward bulkhead, the line going across the top is from the original owner cutting the deck to install the forward auxillary gas tank


Port side exterior of the stringer where its starting to seperate from the hull: I need to grind this out till I find a solid connection and then start reglassing right.


Another view of the same stringer


This is a little forward of the previous 2 pictures, it looks like there was a patch made there already but I dont think they had enough access to do the whole delamination.


In the bow- shouldnt there be a stringer of some kind, and a stringer running along the middle, like where Richard put the PVC pipe for the gass tank to rest of/add some strength?

[LilRichard]

There does not have to be one up there, I just thought it was a good idea.  However your stringer setup is different (I like yours better than my original design) so I would not worry about adding too much.

One suggestion though, while you have the boat apart, I would add new glass to the hull/stringer joint all the way down.  If it separated in one place, it may in others - so for a little extra work you can sleep well at night knowing you will not have to pull the floor back up anytime soon.

I would suggest a biax material (45deg) so that you have glass strands crossing the joint.  It will add a lot more strength then standard 0/90.  It will also add strength if you build a generous radius filet before laying down the glass.

Looks like your boat is in good shape though, you should have a straight forward rebuild.

[love2fish]

Thanks Rich.
Reguarding the stringers, I was planning on adding a 4" or 6" strip of glass on the immediate "joint"/ connecting point where the stringers meet the hull, and then at a layer that would completely wrap the tops of the stringers- from from hull up and over the stringers down to the hull again.  I dont know alot about the different mixes/compounds of fiberglassing, but from what I've read I think I'll need to add mixed fibers and or collodial silica to the epoxy resin for added strength on the first strip I put down right.
What kind of resin is Ok to use on our boats (original hull material) so that it bonds correctly?

[LilRichard]

I don't think you need to reglass the entire stringer, just the joints.  That would be a lot of work...

You can use polyester - that is what it is made of.  You can also use epoxy, it has better secondary bond strength.  Personally I find polyester easier to work with.  Just make sure you properly rough up the surface before applying.  Where the stringer has separated, you need to add at least two layers of increasing width, IMHO.

If you are making filets, yes, you need cabosil.  If you're just glassing over an existing joint, you do not need a thickener.