Ex-Aquasport/Wellcraft employee (Bob C)...

[cdoyal]

Hey Bob-
While we're on the subject of wiring, my 245 Explorer has a four circuit fuse block under the washdown compartment on the transom, starboard side. Any idea what those four circuits are? They aren't labled and I'm going to replace it when I rewire. Thanks again for all your help here.

[seabob4]

CD,
You should have Aft Bilge, Forward Bilge, Stereo Memory, and trim tabs.  The bilge breakers are for the float switches, they'll be wired "constant hot", as well as the stereo memory.  The tabs will be wired switched.

[cdoyal]

Perfect! I had guessed the three but forgot about the stereo. One more question: Do you recall how deep the fuel tank is? I need to order another sender. Thanks again. Buy yourself a beer and put it on my tab.

[seabob4]

Perfect! I had guessed the three but forgot about the stereo. One more question: Do you recall how deep the fuel tank is? I need to order another sender. Thanks again. Buy yourself a beer and put it on my tab.

No, but it's easy to find out.  Remove the access plate (pie) at the aft end over the sender/pickup.  Remove the sender (5 or 6 machine screws), stab the tank through the opening, measure where the line is.   BTW, I just bought a new sender (Moeller) with the swing arm float at a pretty good price.  Let me see if I can get you the info...

Here you go...http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/moeller-electric-fuel-sending-unit-6-24.aspx?a=515454

[cdoyal]

I knew that but was taking the lazy way out by asking you instead of shoveling snow off the boat cover and crawling in there.

[seabob4]

I knew that but was taking the lazy way out by asking you instead of shoveling snow off the boat cover and crawling in there.

Like the depth of a 245 fuel tank is just going to be one of those things that stick in my head...

Get your ass out there and shovel some snow!

[cdoyal]

Yes sir!

[seabob4]

Yes sir!

But first, a !

[stringali]

Thanks Rick, that is good info. And sorry Seabob, I did not take a pic before I brought the hatch to be made. It takes the round key and extends down with a lever that holds the hatch in place to the boat. I thought that maybe you would be familiar to this one. When i get it back, I will take a pic for you. Thanks, Steve

also Seabob, Is there a way that I can strengthen the hatch doors for the fish box.  They are feeling a bit spongy when they are stepped on.  Thanks again

[seabob4]

Steve,
Cut 2 lengths of Oak 2 X 2, about 1 /2" shy of the ends of both hatches lengthwise.  Oak is very stiff on the longitudal.  Cut a 45 at each end of both pieces.  Resin coat.  Grind and area on the underside of each hatch in the center where they'll be glassed in.  Grind all the gelcoat off, removing at least 1" away from the actual bonding area.  Cut 2 strips of 2415 the width and length of the 2 X 2s, long side down.  Glass 2 X 2s to the undersides of the hatches.  Let kick.

Now, glass over the tops of the stiffeners with 2 more layers of 2415, making sure the glass ties into the underside of the hatches.  Let kick, grind, and brush on gel.  Your encapsulating layers will probably be 6" wide by about 20" long.  Stagger the seams so if th bottom layer comes loose, the whole glass work won't come loose...

And call me Bob C, if you don't mind...

[stringali]

Thanks for the valuable help Bob C

I will get my 22 year old on that one!

Steve

[seabob4]

Thanks for the valuable help Bob C

I will get my 22 year old on that one!

Steve

Introduce him to the lost art of "glassing"...

[cdoyal]

Speaking of "glassing",  (notice the great segue into yet another question?) I'm installing new Atwood LED red and green marker lights on the bow of my Explorer. My problem is the new lights don't completely cover the old holes. There's a small gap that needs to be filled. I suppose I could use caulk but that's not a great solution in my opinion. Is glassing/epoxy and filling it with gel coat the way to go? (God, I hope not.)  

[seabob4]

CD,
As long as the mounting screws for the new lights have good substrate to bite into, and the gap is small (less than 1/8"), then fill it with good white silicone and call it a day.  If you want the gap to be gel, then I'm sure you know what kind of repair you're getting into... :x

[cdoyal]

That sounds like an answer I can live with!