The front on our old carolina skiff finally crapped out so we decided to take it out and fix it. After removal and inspection it became evident that repair would be more work than building a new deck, so we decided to just build a one off mold. For those of you that only need one part to be pulled from it, this process is easy, cheap, and will give you enough hands on experience to build a nice plug and mold if you decide to later.
This first picture shows the old deck with the old plywood square core removed. This was when we were just thinking of repairing it.
Next picture shows the melamine form we made to replicate the existing deck, we simply traced the old deck outline on the mold surface so we would know how far to run the glass during layup.
Next picture shows how you make a radius on the sharp corners of the mold. This is done with modeling clay and a round filet tool. This will give a nice rounded edge on the front of the deck once done.
Next picture shows the deck perimeter(glass will run past line once layed and be cut to line after its pulled from mold) and the hatch layout.
Next picture shows the radius on the front edge being formed with the clay and the mdf strips that will become the hatch gutter.
Next picture shows the mdf strips in there proper locations. Notice at this point the center is white.
This picture is showing the same mdf gutter track however, notice the center is now plywood. This center area has to be raised because it is the inner lip on the hatch receiver. The hatch lip will have to span this piece, so if your making this using this method you need to do a little math at this step. If your drain track is 3/4" thick like mine is you will need a 3/4" hatch lip for your hatch to sit flush with the deck. Now your mdf strip is just what becomes the gutter, on the inside edge where the plywood is here, you will need to build this part up the same thickness as your hatch. So if you plan on making a hatch that is 4 layers of 1808 for example, and you know its 1/4" thick you will need at least 1/4" ply in this area for your hatch to lie flush with the front deck. When you core your hatch must make sure the core material sits inside of your receiver lip otherwise it will not work properly. Unless you account for the core in your calculations. You can also see here the start of the radius on the hatch receiver.
This picture shows the finished hatch receiver and the radius's made with the modeling clay to smooth every thing out.
Heres a close up of the mdf strip cut on the tablesaw, 3/4' x 3/4". with the edge radius's done on the router table.
Another close up of the receiver lip.
This will need to be waxed or sprayed with pva for a mold release agent. Also the plywood area inside the hatch lip will be trimmed about 3/4" past the mdf strip once glassed in. This will be the open hatch area once completed so no use in wasting the glass in this whole area, just glass into the plywood section 2" all around and it should be good.
