I'm on panic mode

[Marcq]

Went to work on the boat to get it ready for my engine swap and try to figure out what was my deadrise    when I notice water dripping from one of the non working tabs, was going to remove them anyway, never notice that before.So  I remove both of them, 18 screws, I open up a few of the existing hole and eventually all of them with a bigger drill bit and my transom is soaken wet   boat was covered all winter and still is. How can the top of a transom get wet ? Does the wood inside acts like a mesh so if the bottom of the transom gets wet the top will to ? Surprisingly the transom is very solid, no flex at all but the wood from the drill bit doesn't look good  in some places (even voids)and I'm sure not ready to do a transom job now.

So for now, (I'll replace my transom next summer), what do you recommend to fill up all those holes ? Was thinking 5 min marine epoxy for humid environment

Bummer, Marc..

[Capt. Bob]

Went to work on the boat to get it ready for my engine swap and try to figure out what was my deadrise    when I notice water dripping from one of the non working tabs, was going to remove them anyway, never notice that before.So  I remove both of them, 18 screws, I open up a few of the existing hole and eventually all of them with a bigger drill bit and my transom is soaken wet   boat was covered all winter and still is. How can the top of a transom get wet ? Does the wood inside acts like a mesh so if the bottom of the transom gets wet the top will to ? Surprisingly the transom is very solid, no flex at all but the wood from the drill bit doesn't look good  in some places (even voids)and I'm sure not ready to do a transom job now.

So for now, (I'll replace my transom next summer), what do you recommend to fill up all those holes ? Was thinking 5 min marine epoxy for humid environment

Bummer, Marc..

Wo there Tex,
Don't freak out on us now. :o

Water attacks the transom at POE (point of entry). In your case that was through the screw holes mounting the tabs. Try tapping with a wooden mallet in that area. Listen for the sound. Now try tapping around the engine mounts. Same sound? If so, FREAK OUT!!!!.
Only kidding
You may only be suffering water logged/rot on that area. How does the rest of the transom sound? I tap mine (it's original) and notice some sour areas here and there but not so bad that I worry about losing an outboard. Only you can judge the sound but I feel it's a pretty good indicator of the interior health of your transom. Just cause the outside feels solid doesn't mean the inside is too.
Go get that mallet out and tap, then tell us what you hear.
As far as sealing up the tab mount holes, Marine Tex would work well.

We await your report.

[Mad Dog]

Marc,  go to the System Three website.  They have a product called "Rot Stop."  It could help you out in the short term.  The plywood in the transom core acts like a wick and sponge.  Once is gets wet it stays wet.  The transom on my 22-2 felt solid as well but once I pulled the hardware off it was obvious I had big problems.  Good luck with the fix.  Hope it holds up for this season.  

MD  

[Marcq]

Marc,  go to the System Three website.  They have a product called "Rot Stop."  It could help you out in the short term.  The plywood in the transom core acts like a wick and sponge.  Once is gets wet it stays wet.  The transom on my 22-2 felt solid as well but once I pulled the hardware off it was obvious I had big problems.  Good luck with the fix.  Hope it holds up for this season.  

MD  

Thanks for the link, unfortunately to use those product like that ( e.i Doctor rot) the wood as to be dry, so now I need to find a way to dry it out, maybe I should make a million holes in my transom, that would help :)

Marc..

[Mad Dog]

I saw a demo where the repair guy used long boring bits and drilled out the core from the top then filled it back with one of those resins.  I would rather recore than do that but its an option.  

If you do drill some plugs go from the inside.  You will need the outter skin in tack when you get around to the permanent fix.

MD  

[Marcq]

Ok, so I spent the day working on the boat, first me and my friend check to see if the transom was flexing when I was standing on top of the lower unit when it was tilt up(215lb) the boat and trailer were moving but didn't noticed any flex, then we took the engine off, man that 85hp Johnson is heavy, made a shoulder rack for this purpose :)

Then I took the center scupper off, was planing on filling this one up since I don't see a use for it. One thing I noticed is the fiberglass skin is some thick 1/4" man that's 1/2" worth of fiberglass   Also took off the garboard drain plug, the wood inside the scupper and garboard is humid but solid, the holes for the engine mount after putting a wick inside of them last night were dry this morning when I checked them up, weird that's the only place where the transom is dry.

I end up putting wicks(1'stripes cut of old t-shirts) inside all of the holes to try to suck some of the water out (no I'm not making syrup) some where wetter then others this morning. I'm tempted to drill more holes under the hull where the transom is.

At least the transom is solid enough to last at least another season or maybe even two.

Back to work

Marc..

[Marcq]

I saw a demo where the repair guy used long boring bits and drilled out the core from the top then filled it back with one of those resins.  I would rather recore than do that but its an option.  

If you do drill some plugs go from the inside.  You will need the outter skin in tack when you get around to the permanent fix.

MD  

Still have the video?

Thanks, Marc..