Instrument panel rebuild

[compcrasher86]

your dashboard is looking very nice, keep up the good work. I myself like the black starboard on the 170's as it looks much more classic. I like the location of the switch panel. As for the ignition, not feeling too hot as it looks like the wheel is in the way but hey, you only use the key for a couple seconds so what does it matter, right?

Also... WOW! on the electrical organization! that block is SO organized. And the heat shrink job looks incredible. +100 points for you. The terminal block on the bottom is for the Engine Wiring harness and the one on top is for lights and electronics... Again, nice work!

Is it just me or are only two or three of your switches being used right now? Nice bridging job on the gauges too. Everything about this job looks so professional! By the way, that Blue sea systems add-a-battery system was the smartest package to hit the market, nice buy. I also notice a light right over the gauges. A console interior light is a smart idea, I like your thinking.

Man I wish my dashboar/interior of console was that organized. Best of luck!

[wwwcre8r]

Thank you compcrasher86 very much for the compliments, it's encouraging... I'm doing the best I can, I'm not in the marine business, I'm a computer geek/ project manager.

I'm not happy with the AS placement of the ign. switch, but the hole was already there in the console, I just left it where it was.

No switches are hooked up yet, I have a few remaining tasks, that's one of them.

I added a small LED light in the top-aft area of the seat/cooler that is in the console too, thought it might be nice to see what's in there @ night.

I still am not sure about what size fuse / CB I should put on the leads to the ACR (how do I calculate this???)... I've posted the question twice with no response... I guess folks would rather use their boats/ fish than answer my questions    LOL

[Mad Dog]

I still am not sure about what size fuse / CB I should put on the leads to the ACR (how do I calculate this???)... I've posted the question twice with no response... I guess folks would rather use their boats/ fish than answer my questions    LOL

Yes, I would rather be fishing then posting on any site.   :P

I don't know how to calculate the amps on a circuit but there is a book out available called "The 12-Volt Doctors Practical Handbook" by Edgar J. Beyn.  You can find it here -  http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=SPA002.  It gives you all kinds of good information on boat wiring.

MD  

[RickK]

I still am not sure about what size fuse / CB I should put on the leads to the ACR (how do I calculate this???)... I've posted the question twice with no response... I guess folks would rather use their boats/ fish than answer my questions    LOL

I saw the question to Wart but of course, I didn't answer HIS question. Never saw the other post.
I looked in your gallery and although you mention an ACR, I never saw one in the pix.
Following Warts guidelines in his ACR topic and putting my spin on things, this is what I put together for my 230:

To explain it; from the top left, I have the ACR with required CBs attached.
The switches below control the batteries. From the left: house sw with the 30amp cb on the output, combine sw, starting sw.
The connection stud to the left is for the house battery "IN", the connection stud to the right is for the starting battery (engine) "OUT". I am going to buy another stud tomorrow for the starting battery "IN" connection, which will be mounted right above the charger. I could connect the starting battery directly to the the left side of the right sw but figure it would be easier in the long run to have a separate connection so I don't have to lift the switches from the board if I need to disconnect anything.
Bottom right is a dual bank 12V charger.

The house battery output has a 30A CB on it.

[wwwcre8r]

I saw the question to Wart but of course, I didn't answer HIS question. Never saw the other post.

I apologize for not including one of the links to my prior post.
http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/v ... c&start=30

I looked in your gallery and although you mention an ACR, I never saw one in the pix.

My ACR is pictured in this photo, it is a Blue Sea Systems, PN 7650 - Add a Battery http://bluesea.com/products/7650 (please note that wiring is NOT DONE yet):

Following Warts guidelines in his ACR topic and putting my spin on things, this is what I put together for my 230:

To explain it; from the top left, I have the ACR with required CBs attached.
The switches below control the batteries. From the left: house sw with the 30amp cb on the output, combine sw, starting sw.
The connection stud to the left is for the house battery "IN", the connection stud to the right is for the starting battery (engine) "OUT". I am going to buy another stud tomorrow for the starting battery "IN" connection, which will be mounted right above the charger. I could connect the starting battery directly to the the left side of the right sw but figure it would be easier in the long run to have a separate connection so I don't have to lift the switches from the board if I need to disconnect anything.
Bottom right is a dual bank 12V charger.

The house battery output has a 30A CB on it.

Can I ask how you determined what size CB to put on the ACR? you mention 30 AMP CB on the House output, I have that covered already with a 30 AMP Fuse... I even asked Blue Sea Systems, and were unable to give me a clear answer.

I appreciate all help and advice, and apologize in advance for being a noob in this respect.

Do I size the CB to the wire as per this chart?
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

If so... it would seem that my 2 AWG cable has a safe carrying limit of 94 AMPS; if that's the case, can I use a 100 AMP fuse or CB?

Which is better in this type of usage? A fuse or a CB (cost and fuse replacement hassle not being part of the equation).

Thank you very, very much!  

[RickK]

The ACR model I have came with a diagram that told me 75A slo-blo on each side of the ACR or 150A CB, which I used because I couldn't find slo-blos.  Yours should have come with some kind of wiring diagrams.  Maybe the CBs are built in?  I would ask them if you have to put anything on each side of the ACR like they recommend on the CL-series.  I've gotten good help from Blue Seas, got answers right from the VP of Engineering.
This drawing shows a CB on one side.

[slippery73]

RickK,

What is the purpose of the three separate battery switches? I'm not really following much of what is on that board shown above. Can you explain a little bit about what all of that does and how it works?

Here is what is on my other boat:

http://www.hookedoncatfish.com/Perko.html

It's pretty easy to understand from this guys write up. I haven't wired up a boat with everything that will be on my aquasport, but i'm guessing this will suffice. I would like my electrical stuff bullet proof, if you could offer some insight into your system maybe it will help me figure out how I need to rig mine.

[compcrasher86]

Slippery theres no such thing as bulletproof when you mix electricity and the open ocean. The most important thing I can say is accessibility and organization. I as well do not understand the purpose of three switches but I must say that the Blue Seas Systems Add-a-battery system is one of the most compact and well thought out system to dual battery power. It isolates both batteries in the normal on position and once it detects that the engine is providing voltage, it will combine the batteries for combined chargine. It also has an override switch to combine batteries in the evnt that one of them fails. Awesome system and only $150. Highly suggested

[compcrasher86]

oh wwwcre8r I totally neglected you, heres a link to some information on your charging relay, it may have fuse info in it http://bluesea.com/files/resources/inst ... 310020.pdf

[RickK]

The ACR  above the switches is across both batteries and works as cc86 described.  The 3 switches function just like the normally used BIG switch shown in the link in your reply.  I could have used one of those except I needed to have more stuff in a small area so I more or less made my own.  Plus, I've seen those big switches go bad - rarely but I've seen it happen (and someone just mentioned one going bad on this site recently).  These switches are very small (and made by Blue Seas also).  The left sw is to connect the "House" battery, the middle is the "All" sw or to combine both batteries, and the right is for the starting battery  - so anyway, I can tell exactly what is going on. I've labelled each sw since I made it also, so anyone can tell by looking at the board what is on or off.
See this topic to see where all this started.

[wwwcre8r]

oh wwwcre8r I totally neglected you, heres a link to some information on your charging relay, it may have fuse info in it http://bluesea.com/files/resources/inst ... 310020.pdf

Thank you *very* much for the reply/ info.

I'm afraid that PDF doesn't answer my questions, I have that info already.
The "Wire Sizing Chart" on page 2 of that PDF shows charging amperage versus wire size... My '87 Mariner 115 HP outputs only 9 AMPS!

Can I assume that I only need to size my wire and thus my circuit protection against a 9 AMP charge? I was going to install ANL 100 AMP fuses and use 2 AWG cable... now that is sounding like massive overkill.  

I asked Blue Sea Systems... they didn't give me a straight answer, they said they didn't know enough about my system to give a recommendation.  

[compcrasher86]

www, I am surprised your motor only puts out 9 amps, my 140 evinrude does 15 or 20 i beleive. Anyways, protecting the line against 9 Amps doesnt make sense to me because you must remember that when cranking the engine, it will use A LOT more amps than when it is charging. Also, I imagine you are going to want to have some powerful gear on board so the gear should not be limited to only 9 amps (My stereo system alone requires 10 amps and my bilge requires 5 so i've already passed you)

However, if you plan on keeping your 115 Mariner and its only putting out 9 amps. You can only use 8 or 9 amps while the engine is on and keep the batteries properly charged. This means taking every measure necessary to save electricity. E.g: Replace nav and anchor lights with LED bulbs or fixtures, turning off equipment when your not using it.

Oh and try providing Blue Sea Systems with this information:
1987 115 Mariner that puts out 9 amps charging power
2 AWG Cable
Two batteries
Add-A-battery system
How far it is from the batteries to the engine
How far it is from batteries to the add-a-battery system
and ask them what kind of fuses or circuit breakers you need to install for the add-a-battery system

[wwwcre8r]

compcrasher86, thank you once again... I've emailed Blue Sea Systems again, with more information.

Considering how the PN 7650 - Add a Battery gets wired into the system... would it ever carry more than the charging amperage from one or more sources (outboard, maybe a solar charger later)?

Could I use 8 AWG cable + a 30 AMP fuse on each side (I'm wondering)?

The Switch would still get 2 AWG cable of course, because that is what was run to the outboard.

[GoneFission]

Yes, Mercs that charge off the stator put out 10 amps at best.  

Newer ones have auto-type alternators that put out 60 amps.  And that is why you want to overbuild your system.  Should you ever update motors, odds are you will get a newer motor that puts out 50-110 amps.  Build the capacity now so you can use it later.    

Also remember that starting power uses a separate circuit - direct connected without fuses or breakers with #2 or less cable...

[compcrasher86]

yea those new e-tecs put out 60-150 charging amps somewhere in between depending on size, etc. Man would I like to have one. Go with GF, overbuild it so you can upgrade motors in the future without having to re-wire and re-cb