Aquasport Osprey 170 (The Ambassador) - Hv question.

[Undertow2]

Qatar?  Heck, that looks like Florida in that photo.

[Bahi]

PLAN SUMMARY

A) The fuel tank is under the sole. (I won't bother moving it with the console)


B) Extra control cable & wires available. (I'll organize them a little bit by myself, or with the help of an electrician, in case I move the battery to under the console)


C) It's easy to find the traces of the console's original place. (I'll remove it forward & seal the current holes myself)


D) Seat to be moved forward with the console. (It's easy & I'll do it myself, and seal the current holes)


E) Battery to be installed under the console, with an on/off switch. (I think that I'll need the help of an electrician from Yamaha to move cables & instal switch)



Please advise in case of any comments, or I missed something.

Thanks!

[RickK]

Sounds like a plan.
The first thing I would do is mix some soap, bleach and water together in a bucket and scrub her down real good so you can see what, if anything, is hidden and also you'll have the final mounting position nice and clean before you screw it down.
Make sure you coat all the mounting screws with 5200 (or 4000) that you fasten the console/seat down with. Remember that it takes 7 days for 5200 to really harden.  You might get the urge to 5200 the console/seat down, but I wouldn't.  Be sure to check the wood that the seat is resting on and replace if it looks like it needs it while you've got it out.
As for moving the battery under the console - I would do it in a heartbeat. If I ever tear the floor out of my 170 again I'll put a new fuel tank under the sole (mine's above the sole now) and move everything I have in the back (2 batteries and a hydraulic pump) to under the console - frees up needed room in the aft of the boat. plus balances the boat more.

As for the battery cables, I see them currently coming through the back of the seat.  I would mount the on/off switch in the back of the boat either on the transom or the side.  That means that you would change the end on the red cable and put a ring clamp on it and connect to the "On" side of the switch.  1) I would cut the end off the black cable and matching the guage, get another peice of black battery cable long enough to go through the trough and reach the farthest corner of the console and I would splice it in to the existing OR better yet, 2) you could trace it back into the motor, find out which lug it connects to (starter?) and replace the entire thing with a new cable long enough to get to the farthest corner of the console. (2nd option is best)  Also, you'll need a red battery cable long enough to get to the "Off" side of the switch and to the farthest corner of the console with a ring clamp on both ends.  None of this is hard - you can handle this and save some money too    

Now, pick a place under the console to mount the "battery box" (yup, you should have one of those) and leave enough room to mount some strapping hardware to the deck. Install the box, add the battery, install the cables to the On/off switch, add fused wires to your power distribution panel under the console for all your electronics (and you could/should put another small On/off switch in between the panel and battery so you can easily disconnect everything from the battery) and you're done.  If I missed anything, one of our members will add to this.

[GoneFission]

Rick has laid out a nice plan.  

Regarding 5200 vs. 4000, use 5200 for permanent or super-sealing applications and 4000 for less permanent or if you think you would want to remove it.  So use 5200 to fill the old screw holes and to seal the center deck panel deck over the fuel tank, but use 4000 between the deck and the console and between the deck and the seat.  You may want to remove the seat or console in the future - hard to do when it's glued solid with 5200.    

Run the new/extended battery cables under the deck and up under the console through the same holes as the engine control cables - that gets them out of the way and cleans up the deck a bit.  If you are now using a group 24 battery, this is a good time to move up to a group 27 or group 31 battery - since you will need to buy a covered battery box anyway.  Group 27 batteries have substantially more capacity than 24s, and 31s have even more than 27s.  Even if you stick with the group 24 battery, get a group 27 or 31 battery box with the plastic divider that allows you to put a group 24 in - you can then upgrade to a 27 or 31 later.  

Regarding cleaning - it's a great time to give the deck a good cleaning when you have the console and seat loose - you can get to areas that will not be accessible when it is all fastened back down.  The caulk will also stick and seal better to a clean surface.  

Don't be afraid to take this project on - you can do it!  Afterwards you will have a boat that runs better and you will be a better Captain because you know more about the boat and how she is made.  Good luck and send some progress pictures as you do it - we're with you man!

[Bahi]

I believe I'll take the project; I can't resist after the way you tried to help me. Thanks guys!

I went this morning to 4 marine equipment shops to check for materials availability. Two of them never heard about the word sealant!!! One of the other two had a white German marine (above & under water line) anti-fungus silicone ($10.96/10 OZ tube). The fourth had normal silicone tubes, a local made white paste used by fishermen, and only one tube of a US marine sealant ($13.70/10 OZ tube) with no number (i.e. 5200 or 4000) on it.

I know 4 other shops in Doha. I'll check them all, tonight. If I don't find the 3M 5200, I'll have to order it from the net. BTW, how many tubes should I get? I believe 2-3 tubes would be enough.

In regards to the battery, It's my first time to hear about the groups you mentioned! All what I know is that the battery I have is a maintance free Exide 80D26L-MF (12 Vol / 80 Amp-Hour).

Could you clarify, pls? It seems that I still need to learn many things from you.

[Capt. Bob]

One tube (caulk gun size) will be more than enough for this job. If you don't have a caulk gun, smaller tubes will work fine. If you can't find 3M 5200 you can also use "Boat Life" sealant. It will work well also.
Remember, the 3M seals and "glues". It will make it harder to remove at a later date. It will however come off but it takes some doing.
As Rick stated, your first step is to clean as much as you can,then move the console.

Good Luck and keep us posted. :)

[GoneFission]

It looks like you have a group 26 - similar, but a little smaller than a group 24 that's pretty much a standard battery.  If it is working well and you are not running much in the way of electrical loads or electronics, stick with it.  Your battery is also maintenacne-free, so you do not have to add water - another good feature.  If you want to replace the battery, I would suggest going up to a 27 or 31.  Batteries come in all different sizes. Many have "group" sizes, which is based upon the physical size and terminal placement - size relates also to capacity.  Typical marine group codes are group 24, 27, and 31. Industrial batteries are usually designated by a part number such as "FS" for floor sweeper, or "GC" for golf cart. Many batteries follow no particular code, and are just manufacturers part numbers. Other standard size codes are 4D & 8D, large industrial batteries, commonly used in solar electric systems.

Some common battery size codes used are: (ratings are approximate)
Group 26 (I think this is yours): 65-80 Amp hours 12 volts
Group 24: 70-85 Amp hours 12 volts
Group 27: 85-105 Amp hours 12 volts
Group 31: 95-125 Amp hours 12 volts

These are used in large boats, but usually not in smaller vessels:
4-D: 180-215 Amp hours 12 volts
8-D: 225-255 Amp hours 12 volts
Golf cart & T-105: 180 to 220 Amp hours 6 volts
L-16: 340 to 415 Amp hours 6 volts

The Group 27 battery is a nice mix of size, weight, and capacity.  It is a good choice if replacing a Group 24, as most Group 27 batteries have 105 Amp hour capacity - that'sa 25% increase over a Group 24.    I see you now have an Exide battery.  Here is a link to their web site, so you can get more info:

http://www.exide.com/products/trans/na/recreation.html

Exide specs are here:

http://www.exide.com/pdf/exide_battery_specs.pdf

Battery Box:
You want a battery box with a cover - not just a tray.  The yacht building code (AYBC) requires a cover - the cover protects the battery from having tools or other things dropped on it and shorting the terminals - you don't want that! Here are some examples of good battery boxes on eBay - maybe somone would ship one to you:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Attwood- ... enameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/Group-24-Series-Mar ... dZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Group-27-Series-Mar ... dZViewItem


Here's some info on batteries in general:

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... yTypes.htm  

I hope the helps - good luck!

[Bahi]

Last night, I checked all the other 4 marine shops I know. The final results are:
- There are no 3M 5200/4000 in Qatar
- The Qatari Fishermen use a local made white paste for this job (best price $5.50/pack)
- A couple of shops have "Wurth" anti fungus under & above water line German marine silicone (best price $3.30/10 Fl. Oz. cartrige) http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/left ... mical.html
- One shop has a US made Elastomeric Marine Sealant called "Sudbury" & manufactured by a company called "rule" (best price $13.70/10 Fl.Oz. cartrige) http://www.sudburyboatcare.com/products ... /index.htm

I believe I would use "Wurth" between the deck & seat/console, while "Sudbury" for quoting mounting screws & filling old screw holes. What do you suggest?

[GoneFission]

I think the Wurth would be your best choice for all of it.  I think the  Sudbury is a polysulfide caulk that hardens more than the Wurth.  Sudbury is sandable and paintable, but I think the Silicone-based Wurth would be a better choice for your needs.  You could probably do the whole job with one 10 oz. tube of the silicone Wurth.  

Use acetone or alcohol to clean up any of the Wurth you get in the wrong places.  To fill the holes in the deck, squirt some caulk through the hole, then wipe off the top with a finger dipped in alcohol or acetone.  That should give you a nice, waterproof seal on the hole.

[Bahi]

OK, I'll go for this project starting from Friday. As per the weather forecast, we have force 6-7 Bft this Friday, and force 4-6 Bft for the rest of the week. I'll try to finish my project within this bad weather time.

On Friday, I will WASH the boat, move the console forward, seal the current holes, and take the seat out for repair/repaint. While repairing/repainting the seat, I'll try to make a new door for the console in order to buy a battery box & move the battery under the console.

I'm not sure yet about moving the battery cable by myself, but I'll study the possibility while working on moving the console & the seat.

I'll send you some pics later. Wish me luck on my 1st project.

[Undertow2]

I'm not sure yet about moving the battery cable by myself, but I'll study the possibility while working on moving the console & the seat.

I'll send you some pics later. Wish me luck on my 1st project.

This is when you pray someone left a chase line... 8)

Best of luck.

[RickK]

You don't need luck - you'll be fine.  8)
The trough goes from the back of the boat to the console on the starboard side of the boat and can be lifted out (probably screwed down) and then you have no problems running the new cables.

[Bahi]

Thanks guys for all the great help! I hope to succeed, not for me, but for you after all the advices you gave me.

[Miguel]

Looks like you are headed the rigth way.   As I told you on page 1, you will feel a big difference when the console is moved forward, and hopefully, you add the trim tabs.
One thing to watch out for:  I once moved my console a couple of inches forward.  When installing the screws on the aft side of the console, watch out and don't drill thru the gas tank which is sitting right below it!.

[Bahi]

Too late, Miguel!   I already moved the console & fixed it in its original place  :cry: , but I didn't make any holes in the gas tank. Thanks for the piece of advice!  :)

I really enjoy the little project to the extand that I can't stop doing other things I discover in my way.    The only thing I'm not enjoying is the amount of money I'm spending these days (approx. $250 spent & $100 expected)!  

I WASHED HER VERY WELL. The moving console job is done, and the old holes were sealed. I got a new long battery cable, moved the battery to under the console, and re-sealed the cables duct, then re-organized the wires/cables. I fixed the seat, and made a new door for the console. I removed the old white paint from the seat wood, and Im currently re-painting it, as well as the new door (natural wood color; rosewood). I got four new rod holders, and two new small stainless steel side rails, to be fixed all, today. A complete bow rail will cost me not less than $400.

I'll send you some pics when I'm done.  8)