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Author Topic: 1969 19-1 rebuild  (Read 4402 times)

January 15, 2008, 08:46:10 PM
Read 4402 times

southsider

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1969 19-1 rebuild
« on: January 15, 2008, 08:46:10 PM »
Hey guys, here she is. Let the suggestions and comments flow!
Settin standards

January 15, 2008, 08:53:31 PM
Reply #1

southsider

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19
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2008, 08:53:31 PM »
Sorry guys ill get a hang of this . I have people helping me that are far smarter than I am at this but also looking for the in depth experience from you guys. Any suggestions welcome. I am putting on foam blocks and bracing this weekend so let me know what you think.
Settin standards

January 15, 2008, 10:21:48 PM
Reply #2

fabuck71

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« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2008, 10:21:48 PM »
Man looks a lot better in your pics.  All the hard destuction work is done.  That wil be a nice one.
Alex Buck
Bass Underwriters of Florida
800.528.5386

January 15, 2008, 10:24:55 PM
Reply #3

Kaczki

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« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2008, 10:24:55 PM »
Wow!  I really like that first picture.  The hull looks like it's in really nice shape.  Please keep us up to date with every strand of glass you put to her.
1971 19-1
They don\'t build \'em like they used to.

January 16, 2008, 08:30:00 AM
Reply #4

LilRichard

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« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2008, 08:30:00 AM »
Southsider - boat looks great.

You might check out my rebuild - as I did the exact same thing and documented it fairly well.  If you have specific questions - PM me and we can chat.  

As of now - get that up on stands - but keep the stands as far out to the sides of the hull as possible - that will keep the hull from forming a "hook".  Preferably you would want your supports right on the chine and right under the transom - there is more strength there.  You also want one brace right at the front of the V in the hull.

January 16, 2008, 11:53:21 AM
Reply #5

southsider

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19-1
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2008, 11:53:21 AM »
Hey guys can you comment on the need for spray rails on this model and the  advantages of full transom. would I then need a porta and tabs. What works best with these 19's . I would be fine with regular transom and jack plate.
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January 16, 2008, 12:29:37 PM
Reply #6

LilRichard

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« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2008, 12:29:37 PM »
Transom choice is up to you.  I personally do not care for an open transom when backing down on fish, or in a trailing sea... so I closed mine in.  

If you choose to go open, yes - you can use something like a Bob's jackplate, not a porta.

Whether or not you add tabs does not depend on transom style.

All these boats tend to be a little "wet" so I chose to add them.  Once again, preference, but you cannot "redo" something like that if you want to later on - unless you use the smartrail.

January 16, 2008, 03:04:23 PM
Reply #7

71flatback

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« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2008, 03:04:23 PM »
The boat looks to be in good shape. I like the looks of the full transom and they are good in a following sea like lilrichard said. I'm gonna have an open transom in mine though, because i do alot more flats fishing than open water and i wanted the motor as close to the stern as possible. It's all in what you prefer, and what you plan to use it for.
1971 aquasport 22-2 flatback, Work in progress

January 21, 2008, 10:46:40 PM
Reply #8

southsider

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Fuel tank
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2008, 10:46:40 PM »
Before I start with the floor layout I would like some ideas on tanks. What material works the best and holds up. Is it worth having the custom tanks welded or get the pre maid plastic looking ones. Thanks guys!
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January 21, 2008, 11:52:33 PM
Reply #9

71flatback

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« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2008, 11:52:33 PM »
I went with a plastic one
1971 aquasport 22-2 flatback, Work in progress

January 22, 2008, 08:38:09 AM
Reply #10

LilRichard

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« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2008, 08:38:09 AM »
Because it will be below the deck, and you do not want to have to worry about replacing it again in this lifetime, you want to go with what will last.  So what will last?  Good question.  I have seen tons of stories about aluminum tanks pitting and leaking - but I have seen where plastic tanks deformed and cracked also.

I chose aluminum because 1) it seemed to be the longest lasting material - providing you install it correctly.  2) it allowed me to get the exact size / shape I needed.

January 22, 2008, 08:40:54 AM
Reply #11

Capt. Bob

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Re: 1969 19-1 rebuild
« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2008, 08:40:54 AM »
Quote from: "southsider"
Hey guys, here she is. Let the suggestions and comments flow!


That's a very nice looking tarp :D

Well.... nobody else commented on it.

You already know that the hull looks great.
Good Luck and keep the pics on progress coming. :wink:
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

January 22, 2008, 09:28:51 AM
Reply #12

John Jones

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« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2008, 09:28:51 AM »
A properly installed aluminum tank will last a lifetime.  The pitting issues are caused by improper installation.

$0.02


Good luck with your project.  There will be frustrations and unpleasant surprises.  Don't let them discourage you.  I'm just up the road from you.  Some day I'll have to put an eyeball on that thing.
Politics have no relation to morals.
Niccolo Machiavelli

January 23, 2008, 12:09:27 PM
Reply #13

southsider

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19-1
« Reply #13 on: January 23, 2008, 12:09:27 PM »
Thanks Bob , and with no diagram or directions we figured er' out easily(couple redos). Found a 40 gal plastic on overtons web site for $295, any other places you guys know where to look. Jones I love that motto , I'm only 30 but beggining to take that stance.(Hopefully not). Thanx guys
Settin standards

January 23, 2008, 02:03:40 PM
Reply #14

LilRichard

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« Reply #14 on: January 23, 2008, 02:03:40 PM »
SS-

I had an AL tank custom made for about $450 by a place in Perry - RDS.  Call them and see what they can do.  I try to give both sides to a question - but would recommend steering away from plastic under the deck.

 


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