Bilge size?

[Mike Answeeney]

Hey Guys,

How big of a bilge for a 22-2? 1000GPH?

Built in automatic or cartridge with seperate switch?

Johnson and Mayfair both have a cartridge pump with an ULTIMA switch combo that looks good.

[RickK]

Try this for a primer:
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm

[LilRichard]

I would personally run two pumps, prolly both rules, one 1500 and one 2000.  I have heard very good things about water witch auto switches... I would place the switch for the larger pump higher, that way the smaller (read less amperage) pump does the majority of the pumping unless an emergency arises.

[John Jones]

The Rule Mate with the built-in switch cannot be tested.  No way to activate the float manually so you don't know if it works until it's too late.  I had two 1500s in mine.  One day I did get a bilge full of water.  It took forever for a 1500 to get it all out.  The backup Rule Mate would not come on in automatic because the damn built in float was stuck.  I replace it with a 3700 gph and independent float.  Makes me feell much better.

[GoneFission]

I agree with 2 pumps, fused on two different circuits.  You don't want to blow one fuse and lose both pumps.  I use a 2000 and 1000.  The 1000 was one I had laying around and put it in as the front pump, with the 2000 in the back.  If I had to buy it, I probably would have gone with another 2000.  Both have float switches with manual override.  

Pumps are on separate circuits, both with separate Auto/Manual on-off-on switches, separate circuit breakers, and indicator lights.  Both pumps are left in the "Auto" position unless there is a good reason not to...  

Like others, "been there, done that" with pumps.  The float stuck and I did not notice it while fishing in some rough water.  Really did not know how much water was in the bilge until I tried to head in - the boat was SO SLOW to plane...     Checked the bilge and, damn was there a LOT of water in there!     Switched the pump to manual and (good news) the pump came back on and pumped like a SOB for a long time!  Here were my lessons learned:
1.  Captive floats should not be relied on - see Jones comment on testing ability - solution: new float switch that is easy to get to.
2.  No back up to single pump - solution:  2nd pump on separate circuit to eliminate single fault failure
3.  You really need to pay attention to the caulking in the splashwell on CCPs.  The water in the bilge was coming through the seams in the spashwell.  It was a bit rough that day, with a good deal of water coming into the spashwell.  I found out the hard way that a good deal was also going into the bilge.  Solution:  a bead of 5200 on all the seams in the spashwell - almost zero water in the bilge since then.  

[LilRichard]

GF is dead on... two separate circuits.  I always run one straight to the battery (read: before main power) so that it will be on even when you turn the batteries off.  Some main power supply switches actually have a separate breaker for the bilge... like this:

http://bluesea.com/category/1/products/8686

[Capt. Bob]

3.  You really need to pay attention to the caulking in the splashwell on CCPs.  The water in the bilge was coming through the seams in the spashwell.  It was a bit rough that day, with a good deal of water coming into the spashwell.  I found out the hard way that a good deal was also going into the bilge.  Solution:  a bead of 5200 on all the seams in the spashwell - almost zero water in the bilge since then.   [/quote]

+1 on the CCP splash well. My 84 came with inspection holes that had press fit covers. I had the port side cover pop off in heavy seas while underway (slowly). A lot of water will rush through those ports when open. It also works its way under the live well cover. I sinced replaced the covers with the screw down type, sealed the live well cover (not in use) and the remaining seams with 5200 and have greatly reduced/ eliminated water entry in heavy seas.
Can you say fully closed transom?