Yes to all the above - either the motor is mounted too high on the bracket, or the hub is spinning in the propeller.See if you can move the propeller any on the hub/shaft. You can check this by raising the motor, putting it in forward or reverse, then trying to turn the prop by hand. There should not be any "slop" or movement in the rubber hub. If there is, you need to replace the hub bushing. The rubber hub protects the shaft and bearings by absorbing shock when the propeller hits something. If the propeller encounters something that causes the propeller to spin on the hub, it becomes loose and will spin under engine load. The other scenario is that the engine is mounted too high on the bracket. As described above, you can take a meter stick or straightedge and run a line off the bottom of the boat back to the cavitation plate on the motor. The cavitation plate should not be more than 20-40 mm above the hull line. Without the bracket, the plate should be just above the hull line. Good luck!
Welcome!The 30' bracket setback should allow one to mount the motor with the cavitation plate 2 to 3 inches higher than the bottom of the keel. Are you sure it's not the propeller hub slipping? There is a rubber core between the propeller hub and the propeller itself. If the rubber goes bad it will start slipping at higher loads.
aquaclassic, #1-i am not the authority and there's a slight possibility i'm wrong, but as far as i know, aquasport didn't bracket any boats out of the factory as far as i know. I've seen a few models w/ brackets but likely modifications. As far as i know they went from notched transoms to euro-transoms which u now see on the most mid to late 90's models and newer w/ a few exceptions, ....... #2-IF I AM RIGHT, and that was a modification as i suspect, i agree w/ the logic and reasoning people change to brackets. Closing off the transom, and adding a bracket would have given me a ton of more square feet of fishing space behind the helm and seating area of my 222ccp. It also would have better utilized the splash well area and given better dry storage to batteries, wiring, access to bilge area's etc. Herein lies the problem in making this modification, and any intelligent discussion from me comes from reading quite a bit on the subject on classicmako.com, quite a few owners of mako's 21-25' have attempted to close off transom and add a bracket w/ less than stellar results. Happy w/ the extra room, but not happy w/ PERFORMANCE. A few guys spending a ton of $ changing the vertical height of the bracket on the transom numerous times, and also shaft length of lower units to achieve optimal performance. The worst horror stories i read about were on the smaller 21'-23' boats, w/ the bigger 25-26'makos not quite as affected by the modification. Complaints were mostly about the planing/trim and cruising characteristics being altered too much. Logically, a 22'mako w/ the same 200hp motor detached, setback a few feet on a bracket and re-installed, the boat will behave differently. The same old 475lb motor is set back a few feet, sitting lower in the water than designed, and at thrust the lower attitude changing the entire attitude of the boat cutting thru the water, or enough that the chines and original vee designed is compromised. A few guys have had some success by moving weight(consoles, batteries etc) forward, but quite a nightmare nonetheless. If i'm wrong the whole discussion is a waste, but ur problem sounds similar so i hope this was helpful in some way.(something a marine engineer could be helful with if anyone's got 1 on the payroll)
#2-IF I AM RIGHT, and that was a modification as i suspect, i agree w/ the logic and reasoning people change to brackets. Closing off the transom, and adding a bracket would have given me a ton of more square feet of fishing space behind the helm and seating area of my 222ccp. It also would have better utilized the splash well area and given better dry storage to batteries, wiring, access to bilge area's etc.You are so correct with that idea. I've wanted to do just that to my 84. Herein lies the problem in making this modification, and any intelligent discussion from me comes from reading quite a bit on the subject on classicmako.com, quite a few owners of mako's 21-25' have attempted to close off transom and add a bracket w/ less than stellar results. Happy w/ the extra room, but not happy w/ PERFORMANCE. A few guys spending a ton of $ changing the vertical height of the bracket on the transom numerous times, and also shaft length of lower units to achieve optimal performance. The worst horror stories i read about were on the smaller 21'-23' boats )
44 MPH with a 200 on a 222CCP is pretty good - about right. Mine maxes out at 40 with a 200 Merc and 19 pitch prop at 5300 RPM.
