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Author Topic: Aquasport 175 Osprey??  (Read 16614 times)

August 22, 2007, 05:44:42 AM
Reply #45

swflcracker

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« Reply #45 on: August 22, 2007, 05:44:42 AM »
Jim over at Hottops is good people.  He did both the top and the leaning post.

Yes it is factory color...

Runs, with two people, full load of fuel, gear, etc. about 38 top end on the GPS at 5200.

August 22, 2007, 09:20:03 AM
Reply #46

beast819

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« Reply #46 on: August 22, 2007, 09:20:03 AM »
cracker did you have to move your swim platform to mount your tabs?

Ok after running solo last night for the first time I am still getting a darn lean to the left. I tried siting on the right side of the boat doing about 30mph and still barely leveled out.

I was thinking about it for a while last night and wanted to ask you guys if you thought the swim platform could drag enough to cause this symptom/lean?

August 22, 2007, 09:41:32 AM
Reply #47

beast819

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« Reply #47 on: August 22, 2007, 09:41:32 AM »
here are some more photos for you all.




:)

August 22, 2007, 10:13:24 AM
Reply #48

beast819

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« Reply #48 on: August 22, 2007, 10:13:24 AM »
Hey anyone know if you can get these plastic trays from the factory or somewhere?  

August 22, 2007, 01:02:00 PM
Reply #49

swflcracker

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« Reply #49 on: August 22, 2007, 01:02:00 PM »
The platform does have some effect.  Main thing is is when you are planing off, the fuel shifts in the tank and "wobbles" around causing some off center.  Between that and the ttop, the boat noticed that quite a bit in addition to porpoising.  When I added the trim tabs, it stopped all of this.

It is quicker to plane off and once running, very simple to even it out on the horizontal aspect of how the boat is running.  Simply put, they made a hugh difference.

As for the platform, simply had to cut a 2" hole into the rear part of the platform itself and the tab actuator fit right up through it and then mounted to the transom.  It is clear of the platform and does not interfere with using the platform in-out of the boat.  Didn't have to move the platform at all.

Also, where did you get the rod holders on the front rail?  I take my older brother out who has had both knees replaced and he fishes from that point all of the time.  He was wanting some rod holders.

As for the trays, haven't seen any around.  If there is a place to get them, someone on this Forum will let you know.  Good people here.

And, great looking boat.  You appear to use it just like I do.  Fishing, having a good time at the beach, with the family and my dog.  The 17.5 is really a great boat...by yourself or with the family.

August 23, 2007, 05:39:28 AM
Reply #50

RickK

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« Reply #50 on: August 23, 2007, 05:39:28 AM »
Nice pix 8)

Quote from: "beast819"
Hey anyone know if you can get these plastic trays from the factory or somewhere?  

Remember Ant, there is no "Factory" anymore.  We might see them in a surplus place down here (since they were made here) in the future though. If I see anything, I'll let everyone know.

Someone mentioned this earlier - have you tried to adjust the anode that is right above the prop - looks like a little skeg?  That might help with the lean.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 23, 2007, 07:48:47 AM
Reply #51

beast819

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« Reply #51 on: August 23, 2007, 07:48:47 AM »
Thanks for keeping me informed rick. :P  I am such a newbie with this boat stuff but have gain a ton of knowledge by joining this site.  

I have yet to adjust the anode and will try it out tonight after work and let you know.  I thought that it would only correct pulling not leaning so I have not tried. If I'm leaning to the left should I turn the little skeg towards the right?

Ant

August 23, 2007, 06:20:28 PM
Reply #52

Miguel

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« Reply #52 on: August 23, 2007, 06:20:28 PM »
Hey there, beast....
I may be going out on a limb, but here´s my opinion.  IMHO, the swim platform does not have produce the lean unless it is in contact with the water while on plane.  That should not be the case.  
I think that these boats where not meant to have T-tops (even tough I would have one if it would fit in my garage), and they may be making your boat a little top heavy.  Any slight imbalance in the weight of the top may cause a lean to one side.  Keep in mind that our boats are somewhat narrow and therefore naturally tipsy.
I again recommend installing trim tabs.  I went with hydraulics and it took about 6 hours of labor, not including the time it took for all the sealants and epoxies to cure.  I did it all myself, and only needed help to fish the hydraulic tubing thru to the console.  Lenco´s should be a lot easier to install.
Either way you decide to go, you´ll notice a huge difference in the handling and sea handling abilities of your boat. :D
I also cut a notch on my swim latform for installation of the actuators.  
P.S. I really like your boat.  It looks amazingly clean.  I just wish I could have a T-top.....  Do you have performance numbers?
Miguel
1985 Osprey 170 / 1992 115HP Mariner
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August 23, 2007, 07:41:10 PM
Reply #53

beast819

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« Reply #53 on: August 23, 2007, 07:41:10 PM »
Only thing I know is that the other day with two dogs and the lady my top end with the wind at my back was about 36mph.  I do believe the ttop adds a lot of drag and also makes the boat somewhat top heavy. I am going to save up for the lenco tabs but for now im trying to get my anchor light to work with my navigation lights. Boat wiring is so fun.....not. I don't under stand how I can have power going to the same switch and once i flip it up(on) nav comes on but anchor does not power and then I switch it down(on) and just the anchor powers on which is correct. Wonder if it could be a bad switch... hmmmm. Thanks miguel.

August 23, 2007, 08:28:33 PM
Reply #54

RickK

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« Reply #54 on: August 23, 2007, 08:28:33 PM »
I agree with Miquel although I have a huge windsheild that I thought was affecting the performance until it blew out and I found that it didn't affect it one bit.
Lights: Is the anchor tied to both contacts?  If you move the anchor wire to the other contact, does it work?
I had a bad switch recently - half of a DPDT was bad.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 24, 2007, 11:21:35 AM
Reply #55

beast819

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« Reply #55 on: August 24, 2007, 11:21:35 AM »
Rick,

I believe the anchor is tied to the contacts but have not pulled the switch to confirm. I'll try to get a picture up later tonight so you can see what im working with. What a mess though. Anyways I did get my flood light to work again and did so by taking what looked to be a positive wire from another contact that didn't have a switch. So im not touching that thing again and everything else seems to work the same so far. Ill let you know how the anchor light comes along.  I'm dieing to get this light thing sorted out so i can go out in the evening when it is much cooler.  August is soo hot! :wink:

August 24, 2007, 08:06:06 PM
Reply #56

RickK

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« Reply #56 on: August 24, 2007, 08:06:06 PM »
Quote from: "beast819"
August is soo hot! :wink:

Amen.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 26, 2007, 03:24:36 PM
Reply #57

beast819

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« Reply #57 on: August 26, 2007, 03:24:36 PM »
Need some advice.  How would you go about replacing the fuel sending unit? Mine is corroded and I cannot get the screws out and not sure what to try next. I want to replace it because the post where the positive wire attaches has broke and I cannot attach the line anymore. I'll see if i can get a picture of it.

August 26, 2007, 04:41:12 PM
Reply #58

swflcracker

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« Reply #58 on: August 26, 2007, 04:41:12 PM »
I just had to do mine.  Go down to Home Depot, Lowes, local Hardware Store and get a screw extraction kit.  I think mine cost me around $10.  Then spray down the screws with Breakfree or some type of metal loosening spray and let it sit for a day after you spray the screw heads down.

Make sure the area around the old sending unit is wiped down and if you can, shop vac it to keep any metal, rust, etc. from falling into your tank.

Make sure all of the power to your boat is OFF before you begin to make sure sparks don't occur.  Whenever I work on a fuel line, tank, etc., I always get a small fan to blow the fumes away from me.  Remember, it is not the gas that will get you, but the fumes.

Follow the instructions on the screw extraction kit in removing the screws.  When you get the screws out, vacumn again and then pull the unit straight up out of the tank.  MAKE SURE THE OLD GASKET PIECES DON'T FALL IN THE TANK.

When you pull the unit up, you will probably have to tilt it for the float arm to clear the opening and just remove it out all of the way.

The new unit should line up with the screw holes.  I believe there is five of them.  Just make sure you purchase the one that looks like your old one.  I think they are pretty much standarized.

Follow the instructions on the new unit as you might have to trim the arm size down for the float.  And, don't forget the gasket.

Find your wires and hook back up according to unit as to ground, power, etc.  I put my connectors on and then sealed them with the liquid electric tape stuff.  It dries and seals them up pretty good.

Good luck.

August 26, 2007, 10:40:40 PM
Reply #59

beast819

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« Reply #59 on: August 26, 2007, 10:40:40 PM »
cracker great post thanks!  I did exactly what you said and have successfully installed the new sending unit today. Man the screw extractor is a must have. I did have to trim the sending unit because it was a universal that would fit up to 12". So I trimmed it about half way and made sure it wouldn't hit the bottom of the fuel tank. Rewired and fit pretty good.  And it works!

 


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