'Freebie' water test. Not good.

[JimCt]

 One way you can reduce the flooding problem while everybody is temporarily aft is to install neoprene flappers over the scuppers on the outside of the hull.  They'll act as a sort of 1-way valve.  They let water out but prevent (or at least greatly slow) it coming in.  As you wander around a few marinas in your travels, you'll see these flaps on a lot of boats.

Good idea to check those motor weights.  Unless speed is really important, maybe consider a smaller motor...

[Radioshop]

Those Suzukis are actually pretty heavy.  For one, they have a built in oil tank.  I can recall durring my re-power, going from that 4 cylinder Suzuki to a V-6 175 Merc, I think there was a 60 lb increase.  My water line creeped up too, but I'm going with waterlogged foam as the culprit.  

Here's another off the wall concept for you, go with twin 60's.  They are relatively light engines and, as we all know lower horsepower engines last forever.  How cool would twins be?

If I was a rich man, I'd love to get twin 70's for my 22.2.

[Unclebob]

Well, I ended up finding a used lower unit on E-Bay. I'll swap it out as soon as I get it.

And hopefully get back in the water!

[JimCt]

HOORAY!      

Two things you might want to do and don't cost much:

 1) Get the unit pressure/vacuum tested to check oil seals before bolting the thing on.  Most motor shops can do the test.  It checks the oil seals in the unit.  If you have bad seals, the same disaster will befall this unit.  

2) While you're apart, take a look at the pump impeller & housing.

[steved]

Hey Unclebob, for my money you did the right thing going for a used lower unit. You're lucky you found one. I had the lower unit of mine go end of last season and it took me months to find another one.

[Unclebob]

Steved, thanks. 'Twas a little more money than I wanted to spend on this old engine, but it DID run rather well during the water test. I suppose I would have taken a gamble on a used outboard as well.

JimCT, I plan on replacing the impeller and drain seals. Are there others I should replace while I'm at it? Are special tools required to replace the shaft seal? Is a pressure/vacuum check something I can do at home? I have a vacuum/pressure pump with gauge.

Thanks!

[JimCt]

Unclebob,

The drain screw seals are important, but the seals I was refering to are the oil seals for the drive shaft and the prop shaft.  If these are worn you'll get water weeping into the gear housing or oil weeping out.  A decent motor shop will be able to test them by performing a simple pressure & vacuum test on the unit.  It's well worth the few bucks for some peace of mind, considering the adventure you've just been through.

[JimCt]

Unclebob, you back in business with the new lower unit yet?

[Unclebob]

Still waiting on the lower unit. Sometimes I hate E-Bay.  :evil:

[JimCt]

Sometimes you have to give sellers a nudge to get items shipped.

[JimCt]

Did it show up yet?

[Unclebob]

Not yet. Any day now.  

[JimCt]

Jeez... Where's that L/U coming from, Timbuctoo???

[Unclebob]

Lower Unit finally arrived. Yay. It should go on soon, after I get it checked out.

[JimCt]

HOO-RAY!

Hope you're back on the water soon.  Next thing you'll have to do is figure out about that fwd. deck cushion for the Mrs.