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Author Topic: Refurbish 1981 200 CCP  (Read 32175 times)

February 22, 2007, 09:58:44 AM
Reply #45

rsh19904

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« Reply #45 on: February 22, 2007, 09:58:44 AM »
Tub came out nice  :lol:  ..did the tub have leaves in it?  looked like if from the one picture?   Can't help too much with the glass work for the skins..guess its just gonna be finesse and elbow grease. :roll:
Its called fishing not catching for a reason.  Usually operator error

February 22, 2007, 02:54:14 PM
Reply #46

jdupree

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« Reply #46 on: February 22, 2007, 02:54:14 PM »
Quote from: "JimCt"
You've got a big contract on your hands getting that core off the skin.   Problem is the core is bad enough to need replacement but good enough to still have a strong bond to the skin.  Maybe use a sanding grinder with 30 grit  for the tough areas?

GF,  You sure he should use 5200 to seal the panel?  If he does, it'll be impossible to get the panel off if he has to get in there again.


That was my thinking as well.  When I replaced the tank in my 170, I just sealed it good with silicon and never had a problem.  You are right about the core, I have already damaged the skin once and hope not to do it again.  I will try it some again tonight.
John L. Dupree, III
1999 Aquasport 245 Explorer - 225 Johnson Ocean Pro
AQABLA84E999
Member #257

February 22, 2007, 09:42:44 PM
Reply #47

GoneFission

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Panel
« Reply #47 on: February 22, 2007, 09:42:44 PM »
A wood chisel is the right tool, but make sure you use it flat side up and keep the angle of the chisel even with the skin.  It will not dig into the skin surface.  If you try to use it flat side down, it will dig in and go through the skin.  If you get to the point where that just won't work, Jim's suggestion of a 30 grit grinder or a belt sander with a 50 grit belt will work - just be careful not to grind through!

Regarding Jim's question - yes I would (and did) use 5200 because it won't leak.  I hope to never have to go back into the gas tank tub again, and one way to ensure that is to make sure water does not get in there again.  It was over 25 years from the previous time the center panel came off - the newly-cored panel should go even longer - and in another 25 I really don't think I will care much.  However, if I need to, I know I can get it loose, it will just be a PITA to do it.  Even 5200 is not permanent!
Cap'n John
1980 22-2 CCP
Mercury 200 Optimax 
ASPA0345M80I
"Gone Fission"
ClassicAquasport Member #209


February 23, 2007, 08:25:55 AM
Reply #48

JimCt

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« Reply #48 on: February 23, 2007, 08:25:55 AM »
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

February 24, 2007, 06:51:10 PM
Reply #49

jdupree

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« Reply #49 on: February 24, 2007, 06:51:10 PM »
Found out today that I will have to have a tank after all :cry:   Found 2 leaks that would have been problems very soon and several other places that would soon become an issue.  Did discover the reason for the water in the tub.  There is (was) a piece of wood that screwed into the rear of the tub that held the tank in place.  It rotted an plugged up the drain hole in the tank.  The drain hole for the tub is right above the bildge pump.  I think that this boat at some point had too much water in the bildge and came into the tub and tank area thru the drain hole.  Moisture would not produce that amount of water that was evident in the tub.  Partial submersion at some point :?
John L. Dupree, III
1999 Aquasport 245 Explorer - 225 Johnson Ocean Pro
AQABLA84E999
Member #257

March 06, 2007, 10:00:07 PM
Reply #50

jdupree

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« Reply #50 on: March 06, 2007, 10:00:07 PM »
Finally got the wood removed from the skin on the hatch :!: I never thought that it would come off but it finally did with very little damage to the skin :) Man, what a job :!: I don't plan on doing this again.  I hope to start the re-core as soon as I can.

Will be ordering the fuel tank in the next couple of days.  I have decided to go with a 55gal poly tank.  I will post the pictures when I get it.

Just got my new set of decals in :) Look great and look just like the originals.  It will be awhile before they go on until I can address the damage on the port side.
John L. Dupree, III
1999 Aquasport 245 Explorer - 225 Johnson Ocean Pro
AQABLA84E999
Member #257

March 07, 2007, 05:31:54 AM
Reply #51

RickK

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« Reply #51 on: March 07, 2007, 05:31:54 AM »
Did you use the images from this site?  I was wondering if someone had actually used them in their native form (form posted).  I had our graphic artist convert them to eps form, just haven't gotten any farther with them.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

March 07, 2007, 07:44:17 AM
Reply #52

JimCt

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« Reply #52 on: March 07, 2007, 07:44:17 AM »
Good progress!  Core material is a chore to pull off the skin if it isn't completely rotten.  I think if I had mine to do over again I'd simply make a whole new panel with new skin.  Probably could make one in half the time as re-habing.  Laminating the new panel to the skin, best way to go would be to vacuum laminate if you have the set-up.  I used weights which worked semi-OK but there are some voids under the skin where it didn't bond.  Vacuum will give you the best results, no question.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

March 07, 2007, 08:28:31 AM
Reply #53

jdupree

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« Reply #53 on: March 07, 2007, 08:28:31 AM »
Quote from: "JimCt"
Good progress!  Core material is a chore to pull off the skin if it isn't completely rotten.  I think if I had mine to do over again I'd simply make a whole new panel with new skin.  Probably could make one in half the time as re-habing.  Laminating the new panel to the skin, best way to go would be to vacuum laminate if you have the set-up.  I used weights which worked semi-OK but there are some voids under the skin where it didn't bond.  Vacuum will give you the best results, no question.


I agree with you there Jim.  It took me several nights and many hours removing the core.  I wonder if it will be worth it.  I don't have the set up for the vacuum deal you mentioned.  I do have a load of cinder blocks that I hope will seal the new wood to the skin.  I have never done a re-core so this should be interesting :roll:

Rick - I did use the decals that were posted on this site.  Burned them to a cd and brought to a sign shop.  Cost me $65.00 which I thought was good.  I will post a picture of the decals in the next day or so.  They will still have the white paper over them but you can see how they came out.  Look great to me :)
John L. Dupree, III
1999 Aquasport 245 Explorer - 225 Johnson Ocean Pro
AQABLA84E999
Member #257

March 07, 2007, 08:29:27 AM
Reply #54

GoneFission

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Skin
« Reply #54 on: March 07, 2007, 08:29:27 AM »
Jim:

Did you drill a hole grid and score the underside of the plywood?  I've had good luck with a 2x2 hole grid and 1/8" scoring grid on 6" centers.
Cap'n John
1980 22-2 CCP
Mercury 200 Optimax 
ASPA0345M80I
"Gone Fission"
ClassicAquasport Member #209


March 07, 2007, 09:22:23 AM
Reply #55

rsh19904

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Making progress!
« Reply #55 on: March 07, 2007, 09:22:23 AM »
hey jdupree,

can you let me know how you like the poly tank?  I know its not the aquasport in NY but I am picking up my new/used w/a saturday and first thing I do is replace the tank but can't seem to decide on poly or alum?  :roll:     Don't think I'll be out in it this season but will try like ..well you know   :shock:
Its called fishing not catching for a reason.  Usually operator error

March 07, 2007, 01:58:19 PM
Reply #56

jdupree

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« Reply #56 on: March 07, 2007, 01:58:19 PM »
I am going with poly if I can find one to fit the dimensions that I need.  To me, its the way to go.  Don't have to worry much about corrosion or condensasion.  As far as expansion goes, just buy one a little smaller than you need :wink:
John L. Dupree, III
1999 Aquasport 245 Explorer - 225 Johnson Ocean Pro
AQABLA84E999
Member #257

March 07, 2007, 02:07:36 PM
Reply #57

GoneFission

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Tank
« Reply #57 on: March 07, 2007, 02:07:36 PM »
I agree - today plastic is the way to go.  No corrosion, solid construction, and the new plastics will probably last forever!    :wink:
Cap'n John
1980 22-2 CCP
Mercury 200 Optimax 
ASPA0345M80I
"Gone Fission"
ClassicAquasport Member #209


March 07, 2007, 04:22:05 PM
Reply #58

rsh19904

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Yeah..
« Reply #58 on: March 07, 2007, 04:22:05 PM »
My thoughts exactly..haven't heard of any poly tanks failing unless directly in sunlight for years on end or getting a hole poked in them..lighter to handle and work with too..guess I already knew my answer..just wanted a second opinion  :wink:
Its called fishing not catching for a reason.  Usually operator error

March 08, 2007, 02:47:51 PM
Reply #59

jdupree

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« Reply #59 on: March 08, 2007, 02:47:51 PM »
I am having problems finding a poly(plastic) tank to fit in the tub.  The dimensions of the tank that came out are Length 72" Height 11" Top Width 24" Bottom Width 20".  The bottom of the tub is 20" wide and the height of the tub is around 13" but the new tank can't be much more than 11" tall for hoses to fit and so on.  The biggest tank I have found so far that would fit is only 36gal.  I would like to have 50gal or better.

Just need to know if anyone can give me some places to try.  I have tried Overtons.com, boatersworld.com, defender.com and haven't come up with anything yet.  Thanks
John L. Dupree, III
1999 Aquasport 245 Explorer - 225 Johnson Ocean Pro
AQABLA84E999
Member #257

 

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