aquasport 17" 1970

[Deck Daddy]

I like gel-coat only because my boats take some abuse with dive gear, lobster traps and scallop drags.  The last boat I did in paint was 4 years ago for a friends flats skiff, it is still holding strong to this day. It was a 2 tone paint job. The waterways were bone white with ice blue for the non-skid. All depends on how you want to use the boat.

[RickK]

I personally don't have experience with painting the sole and how it holds up or not.  I did watch a guy I know do the "sand in the paint" thing on his and he got a somewhat non-skid floor - looked like a painted floor with sand in it.  My $.02.
This is my preference - scan down to the first post I made and read from there - an easy non-skid that is durable, easy to do, very non-skid and looks like factory. Here - have fun.

[John Jones]

Go with Rick's way.

I am.

[Deck Daddy]

In my line of work we call that the broadcast method. The only way I recomend doing it. Just need to figure out what you are going to use, gel-coat or paint to hold your beads or sand for the skid. I use sand for my skid, that way I can choose on the size granules I need. I have used fine stuff that was easy on the feet to large granules that would take 2 layers of skin off if you fell. You can get creative with your taping off for waterways or pictures in your skid. Most of mine were ships names or boat numbers. I believe Wart used another product along with a few other members of Classic Mako called Durabak. Here is a link to his deck project. If he chimes in he can give us the skinny to date on this product. Looks to be another good alternative to the broadcast method.
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic. ... s=non,skid

[RickK]

Broadcast, to me anyway, sounds like you distribute the glass bead like you would fertilizer - depends on how consistant you throw, on how consistant the non-skid ends up.  The way I do this, you fill the area completely with glass bead, minus the water runs, and end up with total non-skid on the area, softened up by the thin topcoat of gelcoat. Last forever.

[JimCt]

Just to get this clear in my mind, do you thin the gelcoat or simply apply a "starved" coat to only wet the beads?

[RickK]

Just to get this clear in my mind, do you thin the gelcoat or simply apply a "starved" coat to only wet the beads?

Use a very short nap roller, like 1/4" or less, just to lay a coat that the beads will stick to.  I used a 8" roller cut in half and "defuzzed" at the ends.  The top coat needs to be very light so you still have a non-skid surface when done.  If it's too heavy, it's grinder time again, been there done that  

[JimCt]

OK, now the nickel drops.  When that project rolls around I'll likely have other questions I don't know to ask right now.  When I'm done, last thing I'll want to see again is that grinder.

[aqua70]

I am ready to gel coat the new  floor. I am using a finish gel coat product with the wax already added as opposed to an Evercoat product that you have to spray with mold release inorder for it to cure.
Can I add traction grit to this coat?
Can I apply it with a textured roller?
I am afraid the floor is going to be too slippery if I spray it on.
Thanks RG

[JimCt]

RickK has a good simple way of doing it.  Hopefully he'll see your post & give you the process.

[RickK]

Did you forget this thread of yours? http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1758&highlight=nonskid
Look for my response in that thread for an easy way to do this.

[aqua70]

half way there...





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[aqua70]

The center console still has to be redone!!

[RickK]

Looking good. :!:  Non-skid?

[JimCt]

Great progress! Did you raise the floor any and how did you bond the ply to the stringers?