Proud new owner of 200 CCP

[ddd222]

JD, glad to hear u got the desired result on the interior, but afford me one more suggestion that i neglected to mention. The purpose of the 3M restorer i suggested is to remove oxidation, dirt and brighten, but for our purposes acts similar to regular compound but slightly less abrasive. But car or boat they do strip any wax that was on there as well as the thinnest outer layer of paint/gelcoat, possibly deeper in the wrong hands as i mentioned before. But even if u like the result it needs a coat OR 2 of quality wax to protect the life you've brought back to it, to make the salt spray bead off instead of damaging. In its raw form after compounding its more prone to damage than before w/ a good layer of dirt and scum on it.
    Possibly pointing out the obvious but i couldn't help it

[jdupree]

John:

Glad to hear you found your boat!  Regarding the spashwell door - I know you may want teak, but think 1/2" or 5/8" Starboard.  The Seafoam color starboard is a good match for the AS hull color, and you don't have to worry about finish, rot, etc.

I replaced my spashwell door with starboard and put a little stainless angle at the top to provide some additional structure - works great!  

I also replaced the original teak tackle box door with Starboard - looks better and is zero maintenance.  

If your center panel is soft, it is almost certainly original.  You can remove it by unscrewing the console and lifting it up without having to disconnect anything.  Then unscrew the center panel, use a knife to cut the caulk, and carefully take out the center panel.  You want to be careful, because you can reuse the center panel skin during the recore with the same nonskid, etc.  I've done this and it is not a big job - if you are uncertain, send me a PM or e-mail and I can walk you through it.  You will also want to clean the tank enclosure and inspect the tank and hoses.  Also, if you want to install an electronic fuel level sender and gauge - this is the time.  

Glad to hear you found the 200CCP you were looking for - a boat and owner that, to quote Bogey in Casablanca:  "could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship."

Thanks :) The center hatch is gone :!: That is going to be my first task when I get sometime.  That will let me get a good look at the gas tank.  Based on the last caulking job, the panel has been removed before but not replaced.  I would assume that is the original tank in there.  It is most likely on borrowed time.  Other than looking at it from the top, is there any good way to inspect the gas tank

I agree with you and ddd222.  I will go with starboard for the splashwell door and the rear hatches.  Looks like all you have to do is cut and put in.  Once the weather turns a little warmer I plan to pull the access hatch to re-core.  I will need suggestions on how to do this.  I would just assume the first step is to remove all of the rotten wood.  That would be great if you could pm me sometime to give me instructions

I will take some pictures today to post.

[jdupree]

JD, glad to hear u got the desired result on the interior, but afford me one more suggestion that i neglected to mention. The purpose of the 3M restorer i suggested is to remove oxidation, dirt and brighten, but for our purposes acts similar to regular compound but slightly less abrasive. But car or boat they do strip any wax that was on there as well as the thinnest outer layer of paint/gelcoat, possibly deeper in the wrong hands as i mentioned before. But even if u like the result it needs a coat OR 2 of quality wax to protect the life you've brought back to it, to make the salt spray bead off instead of damaging. In its raw form after compounding its more prone to damage than before w/ a good layer of dirt and scum on it.
    Possibly pointing out the obvious but i couldn't help it

I am on my way up to Boater's World to get me some 3-M Color Resorer

[JimCt]

Only way to inspect the tank will be to pull it.  Troubles seem to start at the bottom in the support areas.  Shouldn't be a big job to get it out once you've got the center hatch off.  If there's foam around the tank, which there likely is if its the original installation, you'll have to dig as much of it out as possible to lift it easily.

[GoneFission]

Most early 80s CCPs had the tank in a separate fiberglass gas tank enclosure with the tank held in place with straps and a couple 2x4s.  You can remove the tank, but my suggestion would be to clean it as best you can, inspect it, and then pressure test it.  If is holds a couple lbs of pressure, it is probably OK.  The tanks in CCPs are enclosed and not exposed to sea water or elements, so they usually are in pretty good shape.  Very different from the other models...

Let me know when you are ready to recore the center section and I will PM my experiences in doing this - especially if you are going to go with a different seat setup - like a cooler/seat or a leaning post.  

A 200CCP with a 200 Merc should really go!  I would guess 45-50 MPH with the right prop...   Trim it out 'till it starts talkin' and hold on!  

[jdupree]

I noticed a little something over the weekend.  Did the CCP's have foam directly under the coffin box to support the deck?  I have to be what appears to be a factory circular inspection port under the coffin box so I opened it up to take a look.  There is just a big void until the end of the box where you can tap the deck and tell where the foam starts and ends.  I guess that would make sense because the coffin box has a drain in the deck and you would not want water draining into the foam core.

I had the coffin box out and I noticed in that area that the deck had a little flex to it where the box goes.  Just wanted to know if that was standard for under the coffin box.  Thanks,

[GoneFission]

As you have seen, most CCPs have a big open space under the coffin.  This area is not foam filled - not sure you would want to do that anyway. An option was an additional gas tank in this area.  The deck in this area is foam cored, so it usually stands up pretty well (does not rot).  

The later models took advantage of this area to extend the front of the console and put a little room for a porta-potti down there.

[jdupree]

As you have seen, most CCPs have a big open space under the coffin.  This area is not foam filled - not sure you would want to do that anyway. An option was an additional gas tank in this area.  The deck in this area is foam cored, so it usually stands up pretty well (does not rot).  

The later models took advantage of this area to extend the front of the console and put a little room for a porta-potti down there.

Thanks,

I guess I just learned something.  I was just wondering why the deck is rock solid all over the boat, but just has a little flex where the coffin goes.  You just answered my question

[jdupree]

Just a picture of the CCP in my yard

I have also posted two pictures of the damage to the port side on the decal.  I just needed some suggestions for fixing it.  The rest of the hull is in good enough shape that I have decided not to paint the hull.  I plan on removing both decals and replacing.  I understand any repair would not be perfect color wise.  I was thinking about using the mix & match gelcoat repair kit and try to mix a color very close A friend told me that if I would tow the boat to an auto body repair shop that they could shoot the hull with some sort of gun and come very close to matching the color:?   Just wanted any suggestions I could get on how to repair the area and come close to matching the color.  The area does have an actual crack in it and several gouges.  It looks like resin was used to repair but it was a poor job.  I know without seeing it in person makes it hard for repair suggestions, but any would be appreciated.  Thanks

[RickK]

Oh, I didn't know you had a little beach in your yard - cool.


   

Looks nice - have to buy new decals I guess.

[rsh19904]

Looks good there.. :cry:       Still working on my XF in NYC..found a trailer and now its time to set up an appt.  

Its probably better to go to the body shop and see if they can color match with the equipment they have..if you mix the color to match by "eye" it may dry lighter or darker than what you've expected and then it would stand out even more..

If you are interested, I've got an address for a place that does the decals you want...I ordered a set of decals for my old 87 150 johnson and they were spot on!!!  Only cost me 40 bucks with shipping for all three cowl stickers..  think they were called cut n up vinyl and were out of nevada, but the card is at the house..anyway, the white looks awesome    

And think I'd go with red bottom paint, but that's just me

[jdupree]

Good deal on the XF :!: Hope it works out
I just ordered the decals for the boat today Now I just need a warm enough day to be able to get the old ones off which should be a job I am hoping that someone will chime in on the best way to repair the damage.  I don't know alot about glass work, but that is most likely what it will take.

[RickK]

I see a through hull in the aft corner of your boat.  What does that go to?  I had a hole in the same place on my 230 that had been filled in.  We thought it was an oops at the factory.  I see that you have them on both sides.  Some kind of pickup for raw water?

[jdupree]

I see a through hull in the aft corner of your boat.  What does that go to?  I had a hole in the same place on my 230 that had been filled in.  We thought it was an oops at the factory.  I see that you have them on both sides.  Some kind of pickup for raw water?

Rick,

Those are for the self bailing cockpit.  At rest in the water, those are just high enough above the waterline to allow cockpit water to drain unless you have a couple of folks in the rear of the boat.  The waterline appears to be a tad high in the rear.  When I sea trialed the boat, looked like they worked great.  By the way, bottom paint looks really nice When it gets warm plan to paint it a dark red color with a black waterline stripe.

[rsh19904]

I knew it would be red!!  Good Man!