1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

If the above gutter goes to the bottom of the original scuppers will the engine mounting bolts fit in the gutter? I faired over those hole but I looks as if they will. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[RickK]

Make sure that the scupper holes you drill are 1"- 1 1/4" ID so they'll accept the expandable type plugs. With the drains in the bottom of the trough (and below the waterline) you may have to plug them in certain circumstances. As for the engine mounting bolts/nuts/washers, make sure you have enough room for the diameter of the washers.

[Duffy1470]

Good info as usual Rick. I was planning on two scupper holes, one on each side of the gutter, excluding the one in the center.  If memory serves, you can't really get to that one to plug it because the engine mount is in the way.

[Duffy1470]

All the deck except center piece is in.  2 layers 1708 and layer of matt

[Duffy1470]

I suspect all the "small" things like bow eyes, hinges, etc.end up taking forever. The bow is dry fitted. I had some aluminum squares and hammered one to fit the front. Plan is to put a healthy amount of 5200 under each aluminum plate and put self locking nylon nuts on it. Is that a reasonable way?

[dbiscayne]

Looks good - but - stainless and aluminum don't play well together in a saltwater environment, noble metal stuff. Aluminum will eventually turn to a white powder unless you can separate contact between the two. I wouldn't do it.
I'd replace the aluminum on the inside of the hull with a few layers of glass. On the outside, since thats not going to see much force against it, could probably just rely on the stainless plate that comes with the bow eye like the factory did it.

[Duffy1470]

Dbiscayne, thank you. I knew aluminum and bronze hated each other but was unaware aluminum and stainless did as well. Saved me. I was literally 20 minutes from installing with 5200 etc. Would have been a real mess. Well ..... poop.

[Duffy1470]

Glassed the bilge exhaust and fuel hose box thing. It's an original piece, so kind of cool. Also dry fitted high speed pick up for livewell pump. Finally drilled that hole in the hull but can't seem to get the Pic to my tablet off my phone.



I have a "hatch" to gover the hole. Will probably either screw or 4200 it down. I hope to not go back in there for a long time and I think the cap will probably get in the way of opening it anyway.


Pic came thru of livewell pump

[Duffy1470]

Got a beefier bow eye and a piece of stainless plate, 3/8 maybe, as a backer. Put 5200 in the places it should be. I think the next move is put the cap back on.  All those bolts makes my head hurt. Am i supposed to put a beed of cAulk or 4200 around the whole thing? I can't remember what all I scraped off.

[RickK]

much better 

[Duffy1470]

Rick, when putting the cap back on do you put a bead of silicone around it and if yes, is easier to put on the boat or the cap?

[RickK]

I remember getting the cap on my boat was a whole different episode than what you're going to go through. Mine was the entire liner, kinda. Yours is just the cap. Both have the shoe-box lip and that lip needs to be sealed between the hull and the cap. I don't remember what I used but I would bet it was just boat life caulk. I bought that at worst marine.

[Duffy1470]

Worst price marine indeed. They are the worst. Do you think 5200 would be a mistake?

[Duffy1470]

Rod / scrub brush / gaff holder and leaning post contemplation.

[Duffy1470]

Drilled holes for livewell and leaning post mounts. Gel coated under livewell and lean post pads. May mount this before i send to paint. Still need to weld back legs on leaning post. Tig welding is ridiculous hard. Will probably get my son to do it.