1973 196 rebuild question

[Ulysses485]

Duffy, it may require some trimming or routing back some inside corners but I would still think it would be much easier than rebuilding a cap. It seems typical that the front area gets rotted because they were never properly sealed off and the wood rotts out.

[Duffy1470]

I agree with you. I really don't think I will have to do anything to get the cap back on. If I do, it will more than likely be more grinding which is strangely satisfying

[Duffy1470]

Before.... damage to starboard rail. It matches the damage on the cap. This is definitely beyond my skill set, but better than it was.



After... most of the blemishes will be covered by the rub rail

[Duffy1470]

Before... starboard cap damage matches hull damage.



After.... still work to be done, but on its way

[RickK]

Looking good.

[Duffy1470]

What would you use to remove the Grey paint? I have a 7" disc sander from harbor freight, however have been told an orbital sander is the way to go. I fear the disc sander is too aggressive. I have an orbital sander and it barely touches this stuff with 80 grit. It is a tool someone gave to me broken and I "fixed" it. Having never used an orbital sander, I don't know if it is fixed or not.  The disc sander seems to smear the Grey paint, do weird stuff to the underlying gel coat, like remove it or discolor it. I am planning on painting the outside and gel coating the inside. Any pointers at this point would be hugely appreciated.

[Ulysses485]

I assume the gray paint on the outside of the hull? You might want to check into Citri strip. It works pretty good. I have not sanded much paint off but I would avoid it so you don't create issues with the finish using a disc or DA or orbital. Using the citristrip wont affect the gelcoat or glass below so you just remove the paint and helps for later when you go to fair and finish for paint. Hope that helps and makes sense. For gelcoat, there are thinners like Duratec and Patch Aid that will help with allowing the gelcoat to lay flat and reduce orange peel dramatically. With duractec, you could go right to wet sanding and buffing if sprayed and cured right. You do have to get a lot more coats of the thinned gelcoat to maintain proper millage thickness.

[Duffy1470]

You are a wealth of knowledge, Ulysses. Wish I could reciprocate. Thank you.

[Ulysses485]

Its all been trial and error for me. A LOT of youtube videos and reading stuff on DIY fiberglass on the internet. I am no pro but I take my time to get it right the first time (that's the goal at least). I have learned A LOT from these rebuild threads but have always found the specific details were the hardest part and what I struggled the most.

[Ulysses485]

Before.... damage to starboard rail. It matches the damage on the cap. This is definitely beyond my skill set, but better than it was.



After... most of the blemishes will be covered by the rub rail

I would make sure to laminate from the inside where you wont see the repair to make sure its strong. Just make the outside look good and ready for paint.

[Duffy1470]

Roger that U . Got an orbital sander from harbor freight.  It works. Started with 60 grit until could see some gel coat peeking through then switched to 150 grit. Worked well.



Trailer fenders are a problem

[Duffy1470]

There is some damage to the starboard bow that was fixed but needs some attention. Got me thinking about a flats boat inspired spray rail. Anyone ever d9ne that to an aquasport and would it look stupid.







It sure would cover up that damage. Wonder if it would get torn up at the pier or wherever.  Opinions welcome.

[RickK]

Spray rails are installed close to the waterline. Your 12 degree 196 doesn't need spray rails. They are a better fit on a Flat Back 222.

[Ulysses485]

As Rickk mentioned, the 12 degree hulls have a reverse chine design and will act as a spray rail. The flatback hulls don't have a reverse chine design. They start flat in the back and have a sharp entry up front.

[dbiscayne]

Both right. The spray chine along the cap works on flats boats that are really low to the water, probably wouldn't help much at the front of an Aquasport. The reverse chines do the job OK but aren't as wide as they could be to work really good, take a look at an old seacraft they're chines are a little wider and are known for a dry ride. The add on spray rails that are attached down near the chine/waterline work pretty good, basically an extension of the chine.