1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

Added drains to the anchor locker. White holes.


Floor in under casting deck storage area. Will add more floor or will bulkhead up fr9m there. Haven't decided yet.


Grinded more on cap.  This boat was wrecked at some point. Hard to tell what they did to fix it. Notice one vent hole larger than the other and bow core only partially encapsulated.

[Duffy1470]

In the previous pics.  The anchor locker drain holes are 3/4 pvc glued in with a healthy amount of gorilla glue construction adhesive ultimate. I don't know how it lasts but seems to be pretty stout stuff. The panel is 3/4 inch honeycomb with a layer of 1708 on each side and a layer of Matt on the topside.. put a thin fillet down all the joints then used 2 strips of 1708 4 and 6 inches to tab it in.  Had a random piece of 1708 laying around, that is what you see lam'd in the center bulkhead. It was there, I had extra resin, it got laminated. I hate wasting resin. Lots of random pieces of glass have been stuck on this boat.  Did most of the inside of the rail with random glass and left over resin.

[Duffy1470]

Decided to add a little more floor. Thought it efficient to use the existing bulkhead from the anchor locker and gain additional space.

[Duffy1470]

The plan

[Duffy1470]

Drain hole in forward storage

 
Pieces lam'd for storage area

[Duffy1470]

Lam'd other side of storage floor tonight. I think the install schedule is this:
1. Glass honeycomb on top of stringer (wedge shaped pieces)
2. glue forwad floor piece to above stringers
3. Glass floor to anchor locker bulkhead, hull sides and everywhere else I can
4. glass in vertical piece between upper and lower floor
5. Fit and glass in vertical stringer bulkheads for sides of storage and casting deck support

[RickK]

Sounds like a good plan.

[Duffy1470]

I sent mcallgeyver this same post as a question as he has fabricated a casting deck.
Here are steps I am contemplating for a casting deck:
1. Melamine lay up table big enough for whole casting deck.
2. tape down gutter plugs
3. releasing agent
3. Layer of mat (minus hatch area)
4. Layer of 1708
5. Honey comb core weighted down, wait to cure
6. 1 or2 layers 1708 over core
Comments are invited and appreciated

[Ulysses485]

Duffy, you are just moving right along! Great to see a build with consistent updates....unlike mine...LOL..

Regarding your casting platform I would definitely go the mold route! I haven't set honeycomb down on a mold but I would be curious how well it it does dry on a wet laminate. I almost feel like setting it up with a layer of 1708 and a layer of matt that you grind down a little would serve better to set in the mold of the casting deck. Either way, I am curious of your findings because I am planning to do this with my entire deck of my 240 with gutters and hatches etc.

[Duffy1470]

Sure enough Ulysses. The deck is a month or so off. Will need to wait for the weather to lighten up a little. We don't have long winters in tn but we do have them. Highs in the 20s today. On a lam that big I would want lows at least in the 50s for a few days.

[Duffy1470]

Been thinking about the deck core and what Ulysses said about laying dry core on wet.  Think I will put a layer of mat on the honeycomb and then lay it down wet on wet and weight it down.

[Duffy1470]

Guess what grinding in cold weather does just like hot weather........ it sucks. Ground the bow area in preparation for glass8ng in storage bulkheads and floor.


Before or after grinding

[RickK]

You're getting closer to buttoning it up. Yup, grinding sucks 

[Duffy1470]

Rick, or whomever, what did you do to your honeycomb in areas where you screw or bolt  deck hinges or anything else for that matter. Is extra glass enough? I still have some 4008 (40 Oz stuff) I could use. Surely that would do it.

[Ulysses485]

Duffy, because I have a bunch of this 1'' honeycomb material I have done a lot of research on it. However, I have only laid up one panel for a fuel tank compartment bottom.

With that being said, I read somewhere where someone drilled out the topside laminate of glass, stuck the short side of an Allen key in the hole and spun it on a drill to sort of create a void. You just need to make sure you don't poke thru the bottom when making the hole in the top so it doesn't drain thru the bottom. Once that's done, you can fill it with thickened resin or a strong filler material that you can fill up in a big syringe so its solid thru.  Haven't tried it myself and its another step that comes with using honeycomb board material but seems like it would work pretty good. This might likely happen after finishes are complete (when laying out) so I would throw down some masking tape (to protect the finish) around the areas that are getting hinges and do them all in one shot.