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Author Topic: 1973 196 rebuild question  (Read 11211 times)

July 15, 2024, 05:45:18 PM
Reply #210

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #210 on: July 15, 2024, 05:45:18 PM »


Rolls


July 15, 2024, 05:46:39 PM
Reply #211

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #211 on: July 15, 2024, 05:46:39 PM »

July 15, 2024, 11:00:15 PM
Reply #212

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #212 on: July 15, 2024, 11:00:15 PM »
I've had some beverages.  Been ciphering  on the boat.  All boats are a compromise. Been thinking of different layouts:
   = flat deck from bow to stern, no casting decks
   = original layout but with deck raised 1 1/2 inches front and back
   = front and back casting decks level with the gunnels.  Back casting deck with splashwell and livewell built in plus space for batteries 
      and 5 gallon buckets, cast nets, etc. Pit in between would have side scuppers.
       
So many decisions. Probably will  do the easiest which is what? What is the easiest? Each casting deck represents a bulkhead opportunity which I want to incorporate in some fashion. Good night everyone.

July 16, 2024, 10:50:07 AM
Reply #213

dbiscayne

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #213 on: July 16, 2024, 10:50:07 AM »
I still go thru all those questions!
Like the idea of the first alternative but you lose a lot of storage, even with a coffin box in front of the console.
A modified front casting deck in a U shape like an older 1980's Mako is a nice compromise, with a removable deck to fill in the U when you don't need seating.
Rear deck is nice for sitting but if I'm fishing off the back of the boat I prefer to be standing on the deck.
Check out what Aquasport had for the 17 back in the '70's.


July 16, 2024, 03:26:33 PM
Reply #214

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #214 on: July 16, 2024, 03:26:33 PM »
The u shape idea is a good one. I have access to yeti coolers at cost (wish I could extend the offer but I cannot). Wonder what it would take to make the "u" perfectly recieve 1 or 2 yeti coolers side by side or otherwise?  Wonder if it would be possible to make the latches accessible, etc. Etc?

Also, the cabinets you made appear to be the best solution to rigging wires etc. Is there a reason you ran your rigging tubes inside the stringers as opposed to outside. Are there any other considerations to the cabinets or things to avoid. If I do not do a back casting deck, I am leaning towards the cabinets. Really look good and functional. I assume that was a mold scenario?

Is there a thread, blue agave, yours or someone else's that details putting gutters in the deck.  I saw the thread about hatch gutters, is it basically the same? I have got to find a cheaper solution for the deck other than Coosa.  Coosa was my original plan but I am already about $2000 in and 9nly the transom and one stringer are complete(ish). Thanks as always. Hope to post some pics this afternoon if I get anything done.

July 16, 2024, 03:29:39 PM
Reply #215

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #215 on: July 16, 2024, 03:29:39 PM »
Oh yeah, cool back casting deck.

July 16, 2024, 07:23:08 PM
Reply #216

dbiscayne

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #216 on: July 16, 2024, 07:23:08 PM »
Plascore is a decent alternative to plywood but doesn't hold a screw, ways around that. Cheaper than Coosa.
Deck gutters are handy but not necessary, keep the non skid a couple inches from the edge of the deck helps the hose blast the mung on its way.

July 16, 2024, 07:33:26 PM
Reply #217

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #217 on: July 16, 2024, 07:33:26 PM »


You can see the overlap on the stringer to transom extension.  Got the starboard stringer tabbed and glassed in this afternoon.  Also a picture of a 30 gallon barrel to simulate a livewell perhaps. I've had too many beers the last two days.  The South is hot and every year, like Christmas, it surprises me and every year it makes the coors lights taste even better than normal. Looks like another deep hike into the mountains will ensue.

July 16, 2024, 07:34:28 PM
Reply #218

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #218 on: July 16, 2024, 07:34:28 PM »


July 16, 2024, 07:35:49 PM
Reply #219

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #219 on: July 16, 2024, 07:35:49 PM »
Does anyone know off the top of their head how deep a splashwell has to be for yamaha f115?

July 17, 2024, 05:36:36 AM
Reply #220

RickK

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #220 on: July 17, 2024, 05:36:36 AM »


You can see the overlap on the stringer to transom extension.  Got the starboard stringer tabbed and glassed in this afternoon.  Also a picture of a 30 gallon barrel to simulate a livewell perhaps. I've had too many beers the last two days.  The South is hot and every year, like Christmas, it surprises me and every year it makes the coors lights taste even better than normal. Looks like another deep hike into the mountains will ensue.
When tying things in, you should use at least 2 layers of cloth and vary the width - either lay a narrow strip and then a wider one or a wide one and then a narrow one, When done wet on wet they melt together so it doesn't matter the order. Typical widths are 3,6,9" or 4,8,12"
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

July 17, 2024, 05:38:02 AM
Reply #221

RickK

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #221 on: July 17, 2024, 05:38:02 AM »
Does anyone know off the top of their head how deep a splashwell has to be for yamaha f115?
Not sure I understand question. Do you mean from the top of the cutout? Or from the transom going forward?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

July 17, 2024, 07:18:28 AM
Reply #222

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #222 on: July 17, 2024, 07:18:28 AM »
Transom going forward. Cant find any dimensions on web and motor is not here. The layering is key I've learned from you. So far I've got 2 layers on port side and one on stbd.

I keep oscillating between fabricating a 1000 different things to what's the quickest easiest. My latest lazy thought is tiller handle, deck chair one level deck. To that end, I assume after stringers are complete it's rigging tubes and fuel tank? Have a great day all.

July 17, 2024, 10:04:59 AM
Reply #223

RickK

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #223 on: July 17, 2024, 10:04:59 AM »
Do you want a splash well or a drain trough? Splashwell takes up space in the aft. Trough collects water from the deck and drains it through the scuppers. A trough allows you to seal up the deck so water doesn't flow into the bilge. If you are looking for the measurements of the engine cowling, you should be able to call and find that out. Here is a 2023 Yamaha outboard spec sheet. https://www.yamaha-motor.com.au/discover/outboard-tech/outboard-motor-dimensions
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

July 17, 2024, 03:10:26 PM
Reply #224

Duffy1470

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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Reply #224 on: July 17, 2024, 03:10:26 PM »
Thank you for that web site. 27 + inches if I read it correctly which is what I remember the measurement to be.  The pictures of the back casting deck you sent appear to have a splashwell about that size.

If no back casting platform:
Because I am raising the deck 1 1/2 inches I was planning on cutting scuppers even with the deck with flaps over them on the outside with no trough.  I am counting on the raised deck and decreased overall weight from Coosa transom, 40% lighter, and water logged foam removal, 100 lbs maybe lighter, and lighter deck to cause the boat to float a little higher. Wasn't going to cut them in until floated the boat upon completion. That is a long way off I fear.

Albury has an interesting splashwell that someone on here copied.  I have seen donzi center consoles from the 80s or 90s with "splashwall" and side scuppers added .  If memory serves those donzis liked to sink from the stern, thus the splashwall and side scupper installation. As discussed before lots of tradeoffs and compromises.


 


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