1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

I sanded the end off the center keel to put the drain in and it was in good shape, at least in that one spot, surprisingly. The hull was cored with balsa along the keel and that's the only reason I'm considering it.  Do you know if the balsa coring was factory or someone else's brainchild? There was a thru hull transducer in the back and the hull is so thin I f8gured more glass and core couldn't hurt but if it's unnecessary I won't do it. I think you're saying it's unnecessary.

[Duffy1470]

Just re read Ricky's reply and he said the same as you. That is what I'm doing. Thanks gentlemen.

[Duffy1470]

Dry fitted the stringers. I accidentally made my mold the wrong width, 5 inches wide instead of 6, but got lucky in that I left a small section of the stringers that necked down to 4 inches so they fit perfectly. Blind hogs and acorns and what not.

[RickK]

Duff, seems you might be confusing yourself - maybe it's the heat 
Ulysses is talking specifically about the coring running down the center of the hull. Probe it in several places - if it's good, you're good.

I'm taking about glassing the stringers to the hull. As mentioned earlier, the boat is built in layers - first being the hull, next the stringers are fabbed out of the boat (maybe at that time subbed out?) and then the stringers are glued into the hull, next the liner is installed - liner could include the hull sides and cap as one (like my 170) or could be in pieces like yours, floor/casting deck, hullside/rod holders, cap.
The stringers are made with a mold and they connected the stringers to the hull with roving, a real PITA to grind down, as you found out.

You just need to grind down the roving about 6" out from the stringer and lam them down.

[RickK]

To answer your question about the thickness of the hull, it should be about 3/4" thick in the aft.

[Duffy1470]

3/4 inch, huh? With the exception of where I laid glass to bond the transom to hull it's definitely not 3/4.  I am not questioning you. You clearly know what your talking about. Just so iam clear, about two feet in front of the transom, next to the keel should be 3/4 inch thick? That is really disconcerting. Mine is max 1/4 inch,  when you step on it, which I have been avoiding, it flexes considerably. I just assumed when the stringers were glassed back down it woul stiffen the whole thing up.

Next to transom, it's probably close to 3/4 is that where you are talking about? Also did you include the 24 Oz roving ad, as in use this or is that some sort of pop up? Never mind, I get it, that is the PITA stuff I ground down already.

Did you happen to see the coring question about whether that was factory or someone else's idea.  I understand Ulysses said it is waste of Coosa, I'm just curious at this point.

[Duffy1470]

As always thank you for your time. I am after all a complete stranger to all of you. You're very gracious with your time and knowledge. Thanks.

[RickK]

Yes, thickest at the transom and tapers down to maybe 3/8" and then as you move forward you stay at about 1/4". Hull sides are thin, like 1/8".

[RickK]

3/4 inch, huh? With the exception of where I laid glass to bond the transom to hull it's definitely not 3/4.  I am not questioning you. You clearly know what your talking about. Just so i am clear, about two feet in front of the transom, next to the keel should be 3/4 inch thick? That is really disconcerting. Mine is max 1/4 inch, when you step on it, which I have been avoiding, it flexes considerably. I just assumed when the stringers were glassed back down it woul stiffen the whole thing up.

Glassing the stringers to the hull bottom will stiffen it up. That's why we tie everything together with layered overlapping cloth to make it "one".

Next to transom, it's probably close to 3/4 is that where you are talking about? Also did you include the 24 Oz roving ad, as in use this or is that some sort of pop up? Never mind, I get it, that is the PITA stuff I ground down already.

I used the screen shot of the roving to show the kind of glass they used to join the stringers together and to probably build up the thickness there also. You can see the roving all through the boat.

Did you happen to see the coring question about whether that was factory or someone else's idea.  I understand Ulysses said it is waste of Coosa, I'm just curious at this point.

I did see the coring question but I have not seen added coring in original manufacturing. I've seen where they added coring to add a thru hull raw water pickup or a transducer but not big chunks . Hope that answers your question.

[Duffy1470]

Indeed it does. Thanks.

Here are some more pics for future restorers and personal motivation. That is not a party sock in the pic but rather a vinyl glove which are better than nothing but nowhere near as good as latex (surgical gloves).  Have a great weekend all.

[Duffy1470]

Forgot, first pic is two more layers of 1708 down the middle and out the hull on either side of keel.  The pieces were 50 inches long and 25 wide, so approximately 25 inches on transom and 25 on hull. Did a couple more c9rner pieces.  The best roads in AL, like hwy 25, are a series of pot holes. I suspect my boat will be similar.

[Duffy1470]

Here is actual outline of 1708 laid down

[Duffy1470]

Perhaps the last layer of glass? Before and after. Overlapped withe previous 25 inch wide sheet under the stringer which I think is a good thing but I don't why.

[Duffy1470]

Last two lam8nations overlapped the following way.

[RickK]

Now you have clean glass to tie your stringers into.