1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

And thank you for previous responses and future ones.

[RickK]

Did you glue the 2 pieces of coosa together, maybe with CSM between?
The questions/steps you posted all look correct. 

[Duffy1470]

I did use a layer of csm in between 2 pieces of Coosa. Very solid.

[RickK]

I did use a layer of csm in between 2 pieces of Coosa. Very solid.

[Duffy1470]

Glued transom on this afternoon. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the earlier guidance.

[Duffy1470]

How long should I wait to unclamp the transom? It's been a day and a half. Maybe another day or now is fine?  Is Christmas here yet? I want to open my present.

[RickK]

It's not going to get any harder, so she's done. It's grinding time to rough up the inside of the core and touch up the places the new laminations will meet the sides and bottom.

[Duffy1470]

Pulled clamps and all is good. Very exciting. Thanks for all the help.

[Duffy1470]

Trying to post a pic

[Duffy1470]

Okay, that was older Pic. Put drain in as Rickk suggested. Very solid very easy instructions.  Thanks Rickk

[Duffy1470]

Transom. Will get other pic of clamps. I left way to much space at bottom. Does it matter if the thickened poly resin smeared into the gaps on the side of the core crack? Port side fillet(?) Cracked horizontally about every 2 inches. I'm going to glass over it at least 3 times with 1708 so do I care?  I don't think I do.  Any input would be appreciated.  Thanks

[Duffy1470]

Clamps and braces

[RickK]

Transom. Will get other pic of clamps. I left way to much space at bottom. Does it matter if the thickened poly resin smeared into the gaps on the side of the core crack? Port side fillet(?) Cracked horizontally about every 2 inches. I'm going to glass over it at least 3 times with 1708 so do I care?  I don't think I do.  Any input would be appreciated.  Thanks

If the fillets are too thick using poly, they will shrink and crack. I had many a measuring cup with left over kicked-off poly in it, crack. So it's normal. The fillets are filler and not structural. They also help the cloth transition around corners, so the next layer of fillet needs to be smooth and topped off with the core. Do you have any coosa scraps that you can glue in at the bottom to fill the gap? It will help to support the cloth as it transitions down to the bottom. It'll also give you a good place to lay your next fillet to help the cloth transition around the corners.

[Duffy1470]

I do have scraps left over. So smear the resin in then kind of mush a strip of Coosa into it to fill the remaining void, maybe at a 45 ( plus the Angle of the transom)  angle to the hull and transom to make a curved transition? I think that is what you are talking about. That is what I am going to do.

[Duffy1470]

Back to reply #89 and the last step there, the stringers. I have read posts about boats that had a "broken back" when new stringers were laminated in and would never run correctly again, i.e. couldnt be trimmed. I assume the "broken back" referred to the keel bending into a bow shape. The back third of my stringers were floating, not tabbed to hull. How do i make sure all is straight? Is this a rare thing i probably dont need to worry about. My plan is to look down the keel from under and eye ball it or maybe get a 12 or 16 foot 2 x 4 and lay it up against the keel from underneath.  If it isn't straight, how much is too much?

Feel like I am way over thinking this.