1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

Anyone else having gallery problems? I am getting a blank blue screen.

[RickK]

We are having a problem now with our gallery. I have our host helping figure it out. Bare with us.

[Duffy1470]

Sorry you're having issues.  Technology and flat head screws. They're the same

[Duffy1470]

Got some pvc. The kind a boat plug fits in perfectly. It is the thinner wall stuff but that's what I am going with.  Going to put about a foot down for the aft drain. Got all the holes patched in the transom. Will put some mat and Biax on inner skin next.  I am a slow worker and this work is slow. A lot of watching paint dry. Pretty cool though. 

[RickK]

Yup, lots of watching, sometimes days of just looking to figure out the best way. The pipe will be fine.  Make sure you use thickened resin to glue it down and create fillets along to pipe to make it easy for the cloth to conform easier.

[Duffy1470]

What's the word on the gallery? I have pics and questions. Here are the questions:
    = I constructed the transom clamps and have a of 3/4 plywood transom form to compress and straighten the inside.
    = can I cover the ply wit h plastic to keep the glass from sticking when I lay glass
    = how much space at the bottom of the ply where it meets the hull do i need to leave for laminatebuild up?
    = everyone uses 1708, I got 400 08, how much bigger is that? I was planning on 2 layers instead of 3. Supplier gave it to me

[RickK]

Hi Duffy. I don't have an answer on the gallery yet. The ISP is ghosting me.

Are you trying to build up the inside layer of the transom glass? You can use a cheap painters plastic drop cloth on the wood so the resin won't stick to your form. If you're trying to straighten the transom typically you lay glass across the width of the transom and out on the hull sides about 4-12". Usually the laminations overlap by 3-4", so first layer would extend 4" pat, the next layer would extend 8" past, the 3rd layer, 12" past. It could also be 3,6,9" of overlap.  You do the same overlap along the bottom where the transom meets the hull bottom.
Then you use your clamps to force the transom straight.

Can you get more info on the material your supplier gave you? 1708 is 17 oz plus it has a 3/4 oz CSM sewn onto it.  What is the weight of the material they gave you? 4 oz, 40 oz? Do they have a web site we can go to and see the material and it's specs? here is a link to US Composites site - I couldn't find a 400 08 but I did find a 40 woven glass https://www.uscomposites.com/cloth.html. 1708 can be found here https://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html

Hope all this makes sense.

[Duffy1470]

It does all make sense. It is 40 Oz with a layer of mat sewn on back, so maybe one layer? On the hull and bottom overlap, I guess I would need at least 1/2 inch of space from the plywood cutout? Right now the ply wood is the exact shape and size of the transom so no room to make the fabric turn without the plywood getting in the way..

Let me know if isp continues to ghost. I have an i/t guy that might could help

[RickK]

That's some heavy cloth and a resin hog for sure. Strength in building up the transom skin is layers - the 1708 is perfect. I would think the 40 oz is good for bulk, not strength, like the webbing between the stringers?
Also, you going to have to tie in whatever you've planned for the transom core itself. Usually that's 3 layers to tie the entire transom to the hull and stringers and then you have a strong connection transom to hull. That means you can push the hull with a big motor.

[Duffy1470]

The 40 Oz is too much. Glassed some last night. Impossible to work with. It was like a cartoon sweater. Strands would attach to the roller from the opposite side of the hull and pull up a corner or a middle section all the way on the other side.  Is that normal to have 5 foot strings from the cloth attach to roller or did I do something wrong or is it poor quality material. Again, very frustrating but hey, I have a grinder and can make it disappear. 

Any word on gallery. Posting pics is motivating, somehow.

[RickK]

Yeah, cloth can be a pain sometimes. If you can, pre-wet the cloth, roll it up, carry it to the application site and carefully unroll it onto the spot using a resin/laminating roller.
As for the Gallery, when the datacenter rebuilt the PCs they installed new DB software that doesn't get along with our Photopost software. So, we're still trying to get it back up.

[Duffy1470]

Good luck with the DB stuff.  The software world, where users pay a lot, get unwanted updates, get spied on by strangers, and own nothing is 1000 times worse than flat head bolts. I do not envy you. It does however allow us to enjoy things like classic aquasport, though

At any rate, ground the 40 Oz crap off the transom. It came out like cotton candy. Was weird. Think I mixed it a little cold. Maybe it wasn't fully cured after 2 days. 15 CCs of mek is not enough for 2 qts of poly resin at 85 degrees Fahrenheit. In my limited experience.

Here is a real question. I can get 1 whole transom cut out from a sheet of Coosa and almost another whole one. The 2nd cut out would be missing the vee. There would be enough left over to easily fill in the missing vee. Seems like an opportunity to add a strong back or something

[Duffy1470]

I answered my own question by using two full pieces to make the transom core.

[RickK]

Sorry for the delay. I think that was the wiser choice using 2 full pieces. More money but more piece of mind. Plus now you have leftovers for other things.
As for the gallery, if you want to post pics right now you'll need to scale the pictures to decrease the file size and then "attach" them. Make a copy of the original and then scale the copy to 1024x800 pixels. When we get the gallery connection back you can upload the originals and I can replace the pics in your post for you.

[Duffy1470]

I laminated two layers of 1708 on the transom, overlapping onto hull s8des and bottom. I'm not unhappy with the outcome. Makes me appreciate some of the true c4aftsmen on this site, though.
Next steps:
1. Clamp the Coosa transom to new skin with a thick layer of thickened poly tramelled on to the entire surface
2. Smear more thickened poly around the edges
3. Glass 3 more layers of 1708, overlapping to hull sides and bottom
4. Glass one layer of csm over that
5. Move on to stringers

Do those steps sound reasonable?