1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

The piers are 4 inch squares of left over Coosa from the transom laminated together with a layer of mat in between each layer. I used 4 pieces of 1708 on each vertical plane of the pier after I bedded the piers in thickened resin. The "horns" ar to keep the tank from moving forward. They are mostly gassed in. I'm not finished. Probably will give another layer of 1708 or 2 all around. Where the tank's dog ears (?) mount to the stringers I have added 3 more layers of 1708 or will. There will be a total of at least 5 layers of 1708 plus multiple layers of mat. Should be pretty stout

[Duffy1470]

These boats are NOT square, the level Pic is included to let anyone in the future know there is not a great way to "prove" accuracy.  You will be eyeballing lots of things. The stringers at the bow and stern are level and that is what I am going off of. Is that the correct way? I don't know.

The other pics are of the fuel tank mounting apparatus. Most use pvc tubes cut in half and that is a great. Probably the way to do it on most boats, but my boat's keel is off 1 1/2 inches from bow to stern so I opted for piers to mount the fuel tank on as depicted 8n the pics. Is it right? Sure, or it's not,. I will find out hopefully over the next 20 years.

[Duffy1470]

The guy who fabbed the tank said he has installed tanks both ways with success so I am not terribly worried about it.

[RickK]

You've come a long way since post 1 in fabricating stuff with fiberglass. Looks good.

[Duffy1470]

Kind words Rick. Thank you. 

[Duffy1470]

Dry fitted. There are areas, top of the piers, on the Coosa where there is resin but no glass. They will be covered with gorilla glue ultimate construction adhesive which, according to the label, works on aluminum and fiberglass, underwater, is flexible and gap filling and is only $12 a caulk tube.  First, does it matter that there is only resin in some areas and second, does anyone have experience with this gorilla glue product? I have used their foaming glue and it is amazing, but this is not that.

[Duffy1470]

[Duffy1470]

Tank is in glued with gorilla glue construction adhesive "ultimate" underneath on the the piers and where the dog ears meet the stringers. It is also screwed to the stringers.  Guess we'll see how solid it is the first time I pound the boat over a wave.

Does anyone know how to fix one of these. Seriously, need some advice or link to a good thread on here. Questions like,
?can I lay it flat on the concrete floor and record it
?should I use Coosa to recore or go back with plywood
?if I were to reconfigure, like an anchor locker, is now the time

[Duffy1470]

Also, should hull stiffeners be tabbed to tthe bottom or wait and tab to the deck

[RickK]

You should make sure the cap still is in the proper curvature - don't flatten it or it won't fit anymore. If you have to, put it back on the boat now to make sure it still fits.  Then add any bracing to keep it in the proper shape. If you think it needs the coring replaced, you can use whatever you want to recore it.
 Not sure what you are referring to as to stiffeners.

[Duffy1470]

Roger on the shape. It looks like only sections of cap are cored. Like a two  foot section is cored then there is a one foot gap then two more feet cored, etc. I dont really know what to ask. Perhaps my real question should be, is there a thread on here with some pics you can think off the top of your head?

[RickK]

Go to google and copy the next line and paste it into the search box, and then press enter. Change the wording at the beginning of the line to get the results you like.
recoring the cap +site:classicaquasport.com/smf

[Duffy1470]

Working on the forward bulkhead for the casting deck. Used h80. This stuff is light. Almost as expensive as Coosa. We'll see how it performs as a bulkhead. The advanced plastics (store) people did not recommend it for decks. Apparently its compression strength does not lend itself to that type application.

[Duffy1470]

I guess when I put the cap back on permanently, I will glass the cap to the transom. Can anyone think of some reason not to?



This is my plan for stiffening the hull sides. There's the one in the pic which is even with the aft bulkhead, another 4 feet forward from there, then the front bulkhead will be 4 feet forward from there.  The outer deck rail will run through and be integrated to the stiffeners, The hull sides should be solid as heck with that set up.

[dbiscayne]

Looks good. Be sure to spread the load of those stiffeners, an isolated hard spot along a flexible panel can cause problems down the road. Fillets and wide tape to make the different structural components work nicely together.