1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

What happened to the gallery. Everything has changed. Trying to upload pics but screens are all different.  Anyone have any insight?

[Duffy1470]

[Duffy1470]

Felt the deck would need support across the gutter. Will tab the gutter to the transom and the support to the gutter and the stringers. Should be solid. Decided to go with Coosa to raise stringers. I had the material, so I am moving forward with it.

[Duffy1470]

[Duffy1470]

 With this new gallery format that just appeared, I noticed I only have two pics actually in my gallery. Anyone have any insight as to where I posted the rest of pics from?  Seems like the site just got tablet friendly or something. Before, I pressed enough buttons to make the pics appear in my thread, but I don't really know what I was doing or where I was downloading them.

[Duffy1470]

[NCSportfisher]

I just joined, and i read the entire thread so far. I am in the stages of figuring out what i am going to do with my 196.... I can see this will be a huge learning curve for me and these threads will help!

[RickK]

Welcome aboard NCSportfisher 

Duffy, the designer just told me that you should have all your images now. Let us know if you need help finding them. I'm learning the new gallery too.

[Duffy1470]

Shockingly, all my work is ever so slightly off a little bit so will have to make some adjustments here and there but starting to make sense.  Plan is to bed the first layer of Coosa on top of stringers in thickened resin, lam the 2nd layer of Coosa to the first with mat, grind or router all the edges round (probably do that before laminating),  put a layer or two of 1708 over all of it.

[RickK]

  Looking good.
Question: Where, if anywhere, will the water pool up that you're trying to drain off your deck? And it will.

[Duffy1470]

Answer to your question Rick, but first, welcome ncsportfisher. Feel free to ask questions directly on my thread. I put all this stuff on here so people m8ght benefit from it. Rick, ulysses485, umecheme, tampabaymike and more have all been ridiculously gracious with me, so any way I can help, let me know.

Rick, I suspect water will pool in the stern corners and the corner by the rigging tube box thing. I have a question for you.  Do I need to add anything to the stringers for mounting consoles leani g posts, t-tops, etc. Also is there some compelling reason to not glass your console to the deck and forego screwing or bolting it? Do people do both? Also, should I use some sort of bonding putty or construction adhesive to bed the stringers in? A whole caulk tube of gorilla glue construction adhesive is only $10 +/-. Can't imagine what 5200 would cost

[Duffy1470]

I can now imagine the cost of a caulk tube of 5200. It is $31.99 on the site I looked on.

[RickK]

Pooling: If it were my boat (and I wish I had done this on mine) I would figure out a way to cut off the last bit of the deck, as wide as the trough and starting at the port hull side and the box you made and I would have those deck pieces drop/slope about a 1/4" toward the trough and glass everything together. You won't lose any structure if you glass it well.


As for planning how you secure the console, leaning post and even your t-top you might consider using these. Use 1/4-20 thread. Mount them from the bottom coosa up through a hole you drill and also small holes in the bottom coosa for the spines to slide up into. To keep the threads clean I bought 1/4-20 all-thread and cut the all-thread into 3- 4" pieces and screw them into the t-nut.




You mentioned you are going to lam another layer of coosa on top of the one shown - drill a matching hole through it for the all-thread and when you figure out the deck material drill matching hole in it too.  You should use one of these for each hole in the console, leaning post and t-top. Yes a lot of work but they will never come loose, the t-nuts would have to be ripped thru the coosa and all the layers.
When I rebuilt my console I cut off the bottom flange and made a toe-kick all the way around it


Since I didn't have a flange anymore I had to figure out how to attach the console to the fuel tank lid. I made "L" brackets and used the t-nuts to secure the "L" to the lid and the console to the "L".








I used these on my leaning post but I don't have the faith in their retaining power that I have in the t'nuts when the t-nuts are installed from the bottom up. They are called threaded inserts.


This pic shows the all-thread coming up through the leaning post.


When you install the leaning post you replace the all-thread with 1/4-20 bolts - I used countersunk head.

[Duffy1470]

I was considering not doing a fuel tank hatch but the advantages of mounting the console to it and access to all the rigging are many. From the looks of your gallery it did not appear your fuel tank hatch had a channel, only a lip and I'm guessing you used silicone or 4200 and screws to waterproof and secure it?

[RickK]

Originally my tank was above deck, inside the console, so no need for a hatch. '72 or '73 is when they started to put the tanks under the floor. When I rebuilt everything I found a poly tank I could fit under the floor, hence I needed a hatch. A lot of the Aquasports had what looked like a hatch but really wasn't, more like a "where to cut to access the tank" line. My hatch actually mounts to the stringers and the bulkheads. No channel. Sealed with 4200 - it's not permanent and non-yellowing.
If you install a new tank or a poly one (which should last forever), you shouldn't have to access the tank, so no need for a lid. I opted for a lid.