1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

As before, great info and thank you.

[Ulysses485]

Regarding how long a "grind" will last, I think it really depends on environmental conditions its exposed to. A covered canopy carport type structure is the only way to go in my opinion but it looks like you have a lean to structure to help with that. Making sure rain water doesn't get in will prevent contamination and runoff from trees will prevent algae/mold/mildew from developing. The reality is that you could spend many days grinding only to get to the actual glass work weeks later. The biggest thing is making sure there are no contaminants that have entered into the grinded voids to prevent the best mechanical bond possible. Polyester resin has the weakest mechanical bond with Vinylester being second and epoxy being first. However, polyester is what boats are made of still to today and do just fine with rebuilds as long as the proper prep is completed. Another thing to consider is your finish because if gelcoat is preferred, you will need to be careful not to use epoxy where you plan to finish with Gelcoat. General rule of thumb is that epoxy finishes will stick to polyester/vinylester based resins but Gelcoat (polyester based) will not adhere properly to epoxy resin. Lastly, although heavy woven doesn't need to be grinded flat to create a bond, if there is any leftover wax from the original layup, this could contaminate the repair layup. I always start with a pressure wash to make sure all the glass is free of dirt and debris. Once the woven roven is free of debris you can wipe it with acetone to remove any original wax and then grind away. I personally believe wiping with acetone LAST contaminates the "teeth/grooves" that was created from the grinding and the last step should always be grinding/sanding with heavy grit(36-80) . I also find that a dual action compressed air sander helps a lot to get everything ready right before you start to lay glass. Hope that helps and don't hesitate to ask questions.

[Duffy1470]

Some more pics ..... maybe

[Duffy1470]

Thank you Ulysses. I plan to do the following to the stringers:
1. Obviously grind,  seriously though, rebuild them to transom
2. Laminate Coosa to the outside of the stringers
     A. From the back of the gas tank locker to transom
     B. From as far forward as my wallet can stand on outboard side to transom

I am going to raise deck 2ish inches with the plastic fence posts.  Why does everyone glass on inside of stringers.  Seems like a huge unnecessary pain in rear?  Also, there is a thru hull transducer hole almost perfectly placed right in front of where forward most part of a splash well would be. Does anyone think it feasible to put a livewell there that drains into the splash well.  A livewell that goes all the way to the hull bottom like a gold line. Creates lot s of "where does my bilge pump go?" Issues, but seems like a really cool idea. Thoughts?

[dbiscayne]

2023-A-194-00047  Drainage Permit Number 2023-D-194-00050

The coosa on the stringers will work but the factory trapezoidal stringer shape is pretty strong once they're filled with foam.
I added a strip of glass, probably 1708 that was 4 inches wide, along the inside of the stringers where they met the hull. There is no 'liner' inside the stringers so you're bonding straight to the hull. That actually made a noticeable difference in the wall stiffness.  Wet the strip of glass on a work table, roll it up then bring it up into the boat, nice and easy to get it into the stringer through those little access holes then unroll along the seam. Just be sure to place it mat side down.

The factory foam within the stringers seemed pretty light duty, maybe a density of 2lb/cub foot type foam?  I used a denser 4lb/cf foam its much much stronger and more waterproof. Added weight is minimal probably about 20 pounds more for both stringers than if I used the lighter foam. That might be a better way to go vs. bonding coosa to the stringers.

For the livewell, older Mako's did the same thing, with a plumbing system that let you draw in seawater from outside OR shut that down and recirculate the water within the livewell. Even if overflowing into the splashwell you'll still need a way to get all the water out, drain plug on the bottom of the livewell that drains into the bilge? It's a great idea when it works right. Or it can sink your boat if the plumbing fails.

[Duffy1470]

Yeah, livewells sink a lot of boats for sure. Will cross that bridge later.

[Duffy1470]

I looked in the vendor forum hoping to find a fuel tank supplier and did not. Is there more than one vendor? Surely I am doing this wrong?

[RickK]

Where are you located?  If you're looking at aluminum:
In the NE that was a supplier to Aquasport - http://alloymetalworks.com/
In FL - RDS - http://www.rdsaluminum.com/index.html 
Moved from FL to NC - Florida Marine tanks - https://floridamarinetanks.com/

Look at this sub-forum - https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=5843.0

If you're looking at Poly - Moeller seems to be the brand to look at.  I bought my poly tank for the 170 from a marine surplus place. I had to modify the stringers to fit it in. Also remember you'll have to allow 1-3% for expansion in all directions once gas is pumped into it. It expands once and doesn't shrink back.

[dbiscayne]

I've had good luck with Moeller tanks, huge selection of poly tanks on their web site if thats what you're looking for.

Great Lakes Skipper and Jamestown Distributors sometimes has them on sale.

[Duffy1470]

I am having a moment. The kind where you grind your thumb and fall out the back of the boat only to step on a rake. I will get the new pis up. Bear/bare(?) With me

[Duffy1470]

[Duffy1470]

[Duffy1470]

Finally.  Grinded all the old stringer support glass out of stern. There was a piece of wood glassed along either side of keel that is no longer there. Seems like it should be there which is why I plan on glassing some Coosa down. Also appears the keel is not glassed down the center. It's off about halfway towards the bow by about an inch off to starboard. Odd.  Whoever did last job was less of a professional than me which is to say very unprofessional. Pick up my first run of supplies on Monday. Wish me luck. Will be add8ng glass to transom skin, adding Coosa along keel and  generally adding strengthening  hull where I can before I lay up transom.

[Duffy1470]

Almost forgot. Those are cicadas in the picture. A 13 and 17 year hatch is transpiring here in Tennessee as I type. Thank the good Lord they don't bite. There are thousands of them.  Feel like I am in the exorcist II or something.  Get in your hair in your face in you clothes, the whole time making some high pitched lunacizing noise.

[RickK]

Looking good on the progress. Yeah, those are good size bugs.