1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

What you see in the pic is a 25 inch wide by 40 in long piece of 1708 laid 12 inches on the hull and 12 8nches on the transom and 4 inches up the gunnel. Did this on both sides of hull. The two pieces overlap in the center on the transom above the drain.  Then another piece on both hull sides fr9m bottom to top.  A lot of the builders on this site are just better at laying glass than me, really talented builders. About the most I can manage at a time is the 40 x 25  piece 9f 1708 and that was wit help from my s9n, who also has never worked with glass. At the end of the day, though it's satisfying to see your work, whether it's perfect or not.

Thanks all for your help everyone.

[RickK]

Clamp a 1x2 across the aft of the hull sides and use it to hang the cloth on and down into the boat. If you are going to lam 2 layers, clamp 2 layer onto the 1x2.  Then you let is hang into the boat where you can trim it and cut pleats for the corners. When you have both layer trimmed, flip them out of the boat. Then mix resin and roll it on the core and flip the first layer back into the boat. Roll and resin roll everything flat, bubble free and tucked into the corners. Wet the first layer down again and flip the 2nd layer in and repeat.






Link to where I did this in the rebuild
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg89625#msg89625

[Duffy1470]

I tried to do that and screwed it up. I couldn't get my head around that I am not enclosing the transom and cut the pieces to size and tried to clamp them to the transom instead of a board across the top which obviously failed. I was also using that 40 Oz crap, blah blah blah..... listen to what the people here are doing and copy them precisely. I will give the "hanging gardens" technique another try. Thanks.

[RickK]

Yes, you'll be cutting off some of the upper part of the cloth that is filling the cutout. You won't be wetting that part anyway.

[Duffy1470]

Now my next problem. I can only get 25 inch wide rolls of 1708 locally here in middle TN and I don't want to spend the money anyway.  3 x 25 = 75..... I need to do these vertically across the back off the board onto the transom.

Question:
- in the corners where the glass bunches up
          *do you cut a slit and overlap the pieces? Or
          *do you cut a wedge and butt the edges instead of overlapping?
          *does it matter?
I've done both and can't see that it matters. Looks a little stronger to overlap but it's a little harder to glass, likely bubble area. Have a great day everyone.

[dbiscayne]

The corners get tricky, you described it right. Happens on inside and outside corners but obviously no overlap on the outside corners.
Personally I overlap just about every time if it's not in an area that'll be exposed as part of the finished product. I do the trimming after most of the glass has been placed with resin to hold it so you end up cutting in the right spot.
Just keep a rag w acetone handy to clean the scissors I always end up w resin on them. Found it helps to cut just a little further up into the glass than I think I need.

[Duffy1470]

Thank you dbiscayne. The overlap where no one else sees it makes sense. I will do that.

[Duffy1470]

Cutting after it's we out, i just did that and it's brilliant. Thank dbiscayne

[Duffy1470]

More progress. 3 layers of 1708. Plan is to copy Rickk and dbiscayne's builds. Once I get this dry fitted, will use thickened poly to glue it to the existing stringers. Then it is two layers of 1708 down each side, foam,  two 3/4 inch planks of coosa glued together with a layer of csm on top to raise deck and finally 2 more layers of 1708 over the top

[Ulysses485]

Duffy, you’re making some great progress! I have been watching along in the background. Nice work on laying up the stringer in the mold. I’ve learned that anywhere you can possible use mold techniques will save a good bit of work and makes for professional looking work as well. It also helps to save a ton of work on fairing and filling and getting a flat sanded finish. I learned the hard way trying to cold mold the top of my ‘81 console.

I have a comment on the double stacked coosa. Have you seen the fence post trick people use to raise the stringers? Seems much more cost effective because that 3/4” coosa isn’t cheap stuff. It’s great for transoms but not necessary anywhere else.

[Duffy1470]

I did see the fence post method and can't find the post. The cost of coosa is a concern. Is there anything special i need to do for where the console and possible future t top mount to the deck. My initial plan is to take a 115 yamaha I have  that is r8gged for a side console and do just that, rig a simple side console with all the rigging going under the cap. I suspect I will upgrade the motor and will want a center console at some point so I'm going to run all the tubes etc as I rebuild.

Have any of you seen or heard of anyone coring the hull sides with divine cell? I am not putting the liner back in and I thought that might be a good solution, remembering that I don't know anything.

Thanks for the kind words Ulysses. I forgot to mention copying your builds, also. Been extremely helpful to access yalls info and pics.

[Duffy1470]

I d9nt know if the pic is good enough to see. I am having a difficult time getting the 1708 over the corner of the transom. How rounded does the corner need to be or should I use csm?

[Duffy1470]

Also, my transom is 21 inches. Long story of stupidity how it got that way. It's not going to get shorter. Does everyone agree these are my options:
1. Cut an inch off the transom
2. Dont cut the transom and Get a jack plate, manual or otherwise to compensate for the engine being to high

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

[Ulysses485]

Maybe I missed it if you already have a motor with a 20” shaft but why not go with a 25” transom? Probably not something you want to hear at the stage you’re at but now would be the time to make the correction. 25” transom on this size and style of hull is fairly typical with the new range of horsepower available.  However, a 20” will work just fine assuming it’s strictly inshore and backwater style fishing you’re looking to accomplish. To answer your question, I would not add ANY additional weight to a 20” transom by means of a jack plate and would correct the height now to 20” if you a already have a motor with a 20” shaft length. However, I would think strongly toward raising it to 25” vs 20”. Just my opinion. Either will work but it depends on your end goals.

[Duffy1470]

Thank you Ulysses. If I were to tack on 4 more inches, what would that process look like? Is it as simple as filling in the cutout  with some Coosa and glassing?