1972 240 Rebuild

[Captnbrody]

I started sanding the transom and the floor around the transom. As i removed the deck i found that the stringers were delaminating in multiple spots and the port stringer has a vertical crack.


My plan is the complete the transom using kay-cel, 1 sheet of 3/4" board and 2 sheets of 1/2". Im going to patch some of the existing holes with 1708 and lay 1 piece woven roven to level out the inside skin. I will be using epoxy for the entire re-build below deck.

[RickK]

The hull looks incredibly clean. The lack of bonding putty on the tops of the stringers or anywhere for that matter is almost scary.  What was holding everything together? What held the liner to the stringers?

[Captnbrody]

The bonding putty was on top of the stringers heavy, but real thin on the sides of the hull. I used a grinder with a sanding disk and a chisel to knock it off, it came off in pieces.  If you look closely in the pictures you can see chunks of the putty in the bilge area and the upper side of the transom. I’m still working on those areas.

[Ulysses485]

Looks like your jumping right into it! The stringer tabbing looks nonexistent on the outside of that stringer tabbing. Did you buy the boat with the deck partially gutted? It looks like someone has been in there before. If you look at the seahunter that i started and eventually sold, it had similar failure to the stringer tabbing. I guess the weight forward because of the cabin and the shorter stringer bodies. The current build of my 240cc doesn't have nearly as bad of stringer tabbing failure but its a 74 and the stringers are taller and a different layout because they were primarily outboard boats. Show some overall interior photos of the boat. Looks like you got the cap off! Great start to your rebuild. Don't hesitate to share and ask questions. I'm deep in to rebuilding a 240cc myself and spent a couple hours Sunday doing some final grinding before I start glassing. 

[Captnbrody]

Looks like your jumping right into it! The stringer tabbing looks nonexistent on the outside of that stringer tabbing. Did you buy the boat with the deck partially gutted? It looks like someone has been in there before. If you look at the seahunter that i started and eventually sold, it had similar failure to the stringer tabbing. I guess the weight forward because of the cabin and the shorter stringer bodies. The current build of my 240cc doesn't have nearly as bad of stringer tabbing failure but its a 74 and the stringers are taller and a different layout because they were primarily outboard boats. Show some overall interior photos of the boat. Looks like you got the cap off! Great start to your rebuild. Don't hesitate to share and ask questions. I'm deep in to rebuilding a 240cc myself and spent a couple hours Sunday doing some final grinding before I start glassing.

I’ll get some overall pics uploaded this week. I cut the deck out right before the side console and removed the liner with it.
I’ll be following build pretty closely.

[Ulysses485]

Ok I see. The glass just looks weird in certain areas, like it wasn't factory but maybe its been ground down some?

You can see below in my old 240 Seahunter that there was a good bit of glass as part of the "tabbing". It was like they used a a sheet of glass and  then a piece of tape for the tabbing on top. Its like this in my 240cc that I am redoing now as well.



Anyways, if the tabbing is gone, it will make it easier to prep the area for new glass tape tabbing. Are you getting rid of the cabin? 

[Captnbrody]

It’s been a while since I’ve posted…..the build is still alive but the summer heat and rain have made progress very slow. What I’ve done in the last few months is added 4 layers of 1708 to the existing transom and glued up the Coosa board for the coring. The coring is (6) layers of 1/4”. I went with the 1/4” because I couldn’t get 1/2” to make the bend correctly and the 1/4” provided way better contact to the existing skin.

[RickK]

Nice work - should be good and stout now 

[Captnbrody]

Ive made a little more progress over the last few weeks. The transom core was glassed in, the foam in the stringers was removed and i power washed the inside. Here are some pictures of how she currently sits.








My next move is going to be grind all surfaces inside stringers and re-tab them to the hull. Then grind the exterior tabbing off in the areas its still hanging on then re-tab. I plan to lay one layer of 1700 fiberglass across the entire bottom of the hull and inside stringers. I'll shim up the stringers to lay the glass under them prior to re-tabbing.

There is one thing I have been going back and forth on, should i re-core the cap and put it on the hull prior to doing the work on the stringers? What do you guys think?

[Ulysses485]

Your are making some good progress! Are you planning on raising the stringer heights. Something I realized when I changed from the seahunter hull to the CC hull is that the stringer configuration is different for the inboard setup but most importantly they are shorter stringers. The outside of mine measure about 12'' with the inside measuring about 16''. From my notes and memory I recalled these same measurements being 10'' and 14'' respectively. This could be a big deal with regards to maintaining a self bailing hull. I also do recall the cockpit depth being 22'' on my current CC whereas the previous sea hunter I had was what looked to be closer to 24'' so it all made sense.

Regarding your question, I would put that cap on while doing stringer work whether its cored or not. I think leaving it factory for now might be best because re-coring it will cause it to grab whatever shape its in depending on what you have supporting it. My plan is to finish all my stringers with foam and all tabbing before I pull the cap to re-core etc. I will probably also gut the transom and redo it before the cap as well.

[Captnbrody]

Im kind of thinking the same thing about re-installing the cap. He is a photo of mine that I have shimmed up on saw horses to keep the shape.

There really isn’t much core material in it, only on the bow area and the rear corners and narrow strips down the sides where the rod holders mount.

[Ulysses485]

Yeah I would just throw it on top of the hull to keep the hull shape. The only thing about having it flat on saw horses is that if you recore it, it would lock in the shear line shape almost flat and it’s definitely not flat. Depending on the thickness of the core and the glass type you use, it could put you in a bad position to curve the cap with the shear line of the hull. It was very slight and the 1/2” core I used turned out to flex a little but it was really solid and move just enough to form back to the curvature of the hull. My plan is to build some form of box structure to keep it in shape while on the hull and lift it off and flip it to core it.