1974 22-2 Rebuild

[AES1990]

Hi all, I have been on the hunt for a 22-2 for a while now and recently found one in the keys relatively untouched minus the bottom paint (Any suggestion's on removing is greatly appreciated), auto paint on the hull sides, and a transom repair.  The transom is rotten, stringer foam is wet, and the floor is soft so it will be getting a full rebuild.  I plan to clean out the stringers & re-foam, enclose the transom and replace with coosa, and if funds permit a coosa floor.  We will be using the boat for inshore fishing around pine island, scalloping the crystal river area, and fishing Tampa bay.  I have spoke to Randy that has built a few towers for members of the forum about a folding half tower so that I can get it into my barn.  I also plan to install a port bracket if I can find one used, if not I will go with a jack plate.  The forum has been a huge help learning what needs to be done and how to do it, there were a few topics that I couldn't find answers to or I'm just not searching hard enough if anyone has information. 

1. Console dimensions- the original console is 36" wide and is more suit for a seated driving position, I was thinking going to a 30-33" wide console and around 48" tall.  Does that seem to be the norm with these rebuilds? 

2. Are there any disadvantages to using a poly tank vs a aluminum tank?  The poly seems more trouble free but wasn't sure for this application. 

3. Has anyone enclosed the transom and built a livewell in the center with jump seats on either side?  I see some Dorados and Pair marine boats have them and it seems like a good way to add seating without taking up to much real-estate. 

Look forward to starting the build and sharing updates.   

[RickK]

Welcome to the site.

The beauty of doing a rebuild is that you do it the way you want and the only thing holding you back is your imagination and maybe some skills. We can help you with both.
I would start by making a detailed drawing on some graph paper, of the boat interior. Draw the shape of the sole before you cut it out and lay a 2x2 on top of the gunwale cap across the hull and measure down from it to the existing sole top.  Do this at the back of the boat and every 18" moving forward. In the places that the sole has been removed measure to the top of the exposed stringers and also the bottom of the stringers both sides. You also want to measure from one side of the hullside to the map out where the stringers are currently - so measure to each side of the stringers, top and bottom, all the way across the hull. This drawing will become very valuable as you plan your rebuild.  You will know exactly where the stringers are under the new sole because you measured everything before hand. As you remove the sole make sure to measure the exposed stringers and add to the drawing. As you try to make the boat self bail better, because the engines are heavier, you'll usually raise the new sole. Having all the measurements will help you know how much to raise it.
Measure the existing console placement front and rear and from the same side of the hullside that you did the stringer measure. This will help you as you try to offset the set back of the motor on the jackplate or porta.

Console: Many of our members have made their own console, taller and narrower so we have examples in the rebuild forums. I totally changed mine.

Tower: You need to plan how the tower will mount and plan in reinforcements before you start the build - doing it later will cause too much anxiety. The drawing will help you here also.

Also, it's better for viewing if you upload the pics you take to the free member gallery in the photo gallery. You don't have to guess how to size the pics, the gallery sizes them for you. Follow the instructions here http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0  - don't attach them - you are limited by file size and guessing what size to make the file will usually reduce the pic too much. Uploading them into your "member gallery" is better for viewing and the system takes whatever size you upload and resizes it to the best size.
Spend a few minutes to absorb the instructions. It's really easy. Remember if using a phone to take pics, to hold the phone horizontal with the lens to the left.

[pwh70]

I'm doing a very (very) similar rebuild to yours right now - I'm also closing in the transom (with Coosa) but I'm hoping to find a flotation bracket vs a Portable or jack plate. I am also interested in a center transom livewell with storage or seating to either side, but I think I'm going to get the deck on and put the boat in the water with the outboard on the new bracket to see how she floats, before I do anything else that might affect the draft.
I went with a poly tank vs aluminum... half the cost and I found one on the shelf. I've looked around and haven't heard of any cautions on using them.
Looking forward to watching your rebuild.

Paul

[AES1990]

Thanks for the info Rick, very good suggestions.  I went and bought some graph paper as you suggested and drew the boat out prior to removing the sole.  Once I remove the sole I will map out the stringers. 

Paul that's good to know on the tank.  Do you know what model it is?  I have been searching and found a 52 gal moeller for around $600.  My buddy has a flatback with the livewell in the transom and its nice having it there compared to the leaning post in my opinion.  Good idea on seeing where the draft lands before moving forward.   

I was thinking since I will need to recore the cap can I go ahead and remove the cap then remove sole then start on the transom and stringers?  Any downside or risk having the cap removed for an extended period (6 months+-) while I am working on the hull?  I would brace it up very well.   

[pwh70]

Paul that's good to know on the tank.  Do you know what model it is? 

I found it at Summit Racing (summitracing.com) - their model number is MOE-032552, Moeller model # is 32552. They had 1 left in stock when I got mine, but that was a bit of time ago.

I'll let someone with more experience answer the sole question... good luck! I'm going to "place" the tank tomorrow and mark out the bulkhead locations.

[AES1990]

Thanks for sharing Paul, thats the tank I found as well.  I will add that to my wishlist.  Good luck on installing the tank. 

If it's not a good idea to remove the cap for a extended period of time can the liner be removed without taking the cap off?  The reason being is i'd like to add 1 or two layers of 1708 to the hull sides to stiffen them up after I re-foam the stringers.   

[AES1990]

Making decent progress with the tear down, only working on it a few hours a week.  I got the sole & casting deck removed, cut back the stringers at the aft of the boat that were against the transom, and popped the cap loose.  In cutting back the stringers I noticed a piece of plywood inside the stringer where the original tank bulk head started, Is that something the factory did?  It doesn't look like the boat had ever been touched except maybe a new fuel tank at one point.  Also the previous owner had installed a aluminum plate on the transom to try and get a little more life out of it.  Unfortunately the fiberglass had delaminated beneath that aluminum plate, as you can see in the pictures I can nearly pull a section of it off.  My thoughts are to go ahead and cut the transom out similar to I believe it was Capt. Joes build and fill back in with new glass. Thoughts?  When trying to remove the transom form the inside any pry bar or chisel I use easily goes through the outer transom skin.  Some parts are are somewhat ok but you can definitely tell certain spots are very brittle   If I do go the route of cutting the transom out do I need to overlap the new glass with the old glass any or just fil the void?  I have already braced the rear up with a 2x4 across the top of the hull about a 10" in front of the the transom. 

 

[dbiscayne]

I've had good luck with poly tanks, many years of trouble free service. Keep an eye on Great Lake Skipper and Jamestown Distributors, they get them in once in a while for a nice price.
Also check Moeller's website for a full list of the tanks they make.
Transom replacement can be done a couple of ways, I removed the inner skin and left the outer skin intact. Yes to overlapping the glass onto the existing.
Are you going to completely close off the transom and use a bracket?

[RickK]

Yup, the boat got it's moneys worth from that transom.
As Dbiscayne asked, decide your new transom config - standard 20" notched, enclosed with fixed bracket or porta-bracket.

If you cut out the transom entirely I would leave a 2" lip around the edge to be able to clamp the melamine to something.
You also want to glue in a pvc pipe since as you add 6 layers of 1708 plus the 1.5-2" of core to the transom, you move the low point of the point forward.

Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124

Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556

Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262

Capt Bob installed a poly tank in his Explorer/Walkaround and his wife said she could smell gas - poly permeats the gas smell through.

[AES1990]

Thanks for the reply's gentlemen.  I have found a few tanks on market place that are fairly price, I just have to drive a few hours to pick one up.  I'll likely stick with a poly tank due to price, if the wife starts complaining of fuel smells she can stay on the dock lol.  My plan to to fully enclose the transom add a slight half moon and will install a porta bracket.  Good call out on the PVC pipe Rick, definitely on my radar.  Just so I am clear if I remove the transom like Capt. Joe would I overlap the new glass on to the outer skin or the inner skin?  Correct me if I'm wrong but would the layup be 1 layer of 1708 to fill the transom void then another 3 full width layers tabbing to the inside hull bottom & hull sides using 4,8,12 overlapping layers?  I put a picture from joes build below so you know what I am referencing.   

[RickK]

Personally, since your transom outer skin is so compromised, I think I would cut out the entire transom and leave a 2" reveal around the edge so you have something to tie the melamine sheet to, to give you a nice flat starting point. Before you cut out the transom, be sure to screw a 1x2" to the top of the hull side, across the boat to stabilize the hull shape. Put one about every 2 feet going forward.
You then grind the inner glass down to clean glass at least 16" forward of the transom and that includes the hull sides, the hull bottom and the 2" lip around the transom cut out. Then lean the melamine up against the back of the transom - you need to figure out how to fasten the melamine to the hull. Clamping is the most obvious way along the top, since the transom is now cut out.

[Dribs]

Hey all. I know this is 22-2 thread but I think this might apply since you are rebuilding yours. I have a 1972 196 that has a small soft area where the deck meets the transom. I tried posting pictures but they were all too large. . My question is since there is nothing permanently supporting it underneath in the bilge area. If I cut that section out and replace it what is the best way to support the new section. I plan on glassing it into the section of deck that is solid and the transom, which is solid. Will that be enough support once the glass is set up and how should I support in in the mean time while the glass is setting up?  I’ve checked all the usual places, google and YouTube, but can only find full deck replacements or areas supported from below. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.

[RickK]

If you want to post a pic when you talk about your boat, which you should, follow the instructions here http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0  - don't attach them - you are limited by file size and guessing what size to make the file will usually reduce the pic too much. Uploading them into your "member gallery" is better for viewing and the system takes whatever size you upload and resizes it to the best size.
Spend a few minutes to absorb the instructions. It's really easy. Remember if using a phone to take pics, to hold the phone horizontal with the lens to the left.