1975 Aquasport 22-2 Rebuild_PWH70

[pwh70]

Looks to be sitting on her lines. Have you decided where the scuppers will be?

Not their exact location yet, but I was happy to see that the sole looks to be at least a few inches above the waterline under this basic configuration.

[RickK]

 

[pwh70]

Been working on refurbing the casting deck... it's been soft in a few spots in recent years, and I wanted to make sure I was completely inspecting the bilge/hull underneath it.

So I removed it and ground down/removed the old plywood core. (I'm unable to upload a picture of that stage for some reason). After cleaning it up, we added some coosa as a recore in the key spots, and also decided to add a couple bulkheads underneath to provide some additional rigidity (and also create an anchor locker forward). Previously I had been storing the anchor/chain/line in what was the original fishbox. This will allow the anchor to be stored in it's own space and open up the entire fishlocker for storage (or fish). Also added a second bilge pump just forward of the fuel tank, accessible through a 6" cutout in the aft casting deck locker, port side. .



Location of bulkheads... forward BH will be glassed to the hull, aft BH glassed to the casting deck and glued to the hull on install. You can see the cutout in the aft BH for the fishbox drain line to get to its thruhull drain on the port side of the hull.



Reinforced (new) core, glassed in place.



Hull/bilge glass repair is done, forward anchor locker gelcoated, new bilge pump in place, ready to set casting deck back.



After several sets in place and fine tuning of bulkheads, etc - the casting deck is back in place. Still some glasswork to be done, but it is solid. Anchor bracket/hatch will be formed where the coosa can still be seen forward, to allow the anchor to hang just below the deck and the hatch that still needs to be completely cutout.

[RickK]

Is the opening in the front the anchor locker? How does it work? Maybe a close up?  Is it a hanger for a danforth style anchor?

[pwh70]

Is the opening in the front the anchor locker? How does it work? Is it a hanger for a danforth style anchor?

Yes to the first and last questions, but the opening is not fully cut out yet. I previously stored PFD's there in a primitively formed deck locker.
The hatch opening needs to be cutout again through the newly installed coosa core. I cut a slot big enough to fit the anchor inside and define where it will sit, so I can move the hatch opening as far back as possible and still be able to extract the anchor easily.
When it is complete I will certainly post some pics.

Yes, the hatch will open to access a danforth anchor hanging just below. I need to fabricate something all the way aft/bottom of the locker so that the shank of the anchor doesn't bounce against the inside of the hull in waves.

thanks for looking

[RickK]

Look forward to seeing the finished product.

[pwh70]

Starting to fit the deck pieces in place, in preparation for installation. This second piece and the one aft of it will be getting some fiberglass reinforcement on the underside to give the t top, console and leaning post installation screws something besides the Coosa to bite into.
The forward bilge pump, bow light and fuel sender wiring are routed into the rigging tube, and the fuel fill, vent and fuel line are all routed up the starboard side.



Paul

[pwh70]

When not working on deck/hull stuff, I've been repairing/building up my center console to allow for a flush mounted chartplotter, and providing a clean surface for the new gauge, controls, etc.





I glassed in a full section of marine plywood in the console interior, to provide some real estate to easily mount the necessary electrical "stuff" without having to epoxy studs or zip tie holders in specific spots, etc. It's a little heavier than without it, but I think it will make organization under the console much easier.



All the deck pieces were fitted and checked against the bulkheads and measured for mounting points of the center console, leaning post, etc.
Reinforcement was added to the underside of each piece, either for the span between the stringers or to provide a reinforced spot for mounting screws to bite into. In some places a "backbone" was glassed in between the stringers to eliminate the flex that is inherent to Coosa board. Cutouts in the backbone(s) are for the rigging tube.







Three of the four deck pieces have been glued and screwed into place. Hoping to place the final aft section tomorrow.



Thanks for looking,
Paul

[RickK]

Coming along nicely 

[larro]

Hi Paul, very nice work! Question what size was the fillet did you have to use to close the gap from the stringer to the hull and did you use 1708?
Thanks
Larro

[pwh70]

Question what size was the fillet did you have to use to close the gap from the stringer to the hull and did you use 1708?

Thanks, Larro... I can't believe that with all the pictures I've taken, I don't have a good one of those stringers after the reinforcement was done. It wasn't a traditional fillet and cloth as you might expect. We initially sprayed the gap between the stringers and hull using a fiberglass chop gun, then a layer of 2415 woven roving mat was laid into the corner over the chop, and then another layer of chop was sprayed on... then it all gets rolled in with the resin that is applied in each of the 3 layers.

The only picture I have shows the inside of the stringer (not the outside gap that you are probably asking about) and it has been coated with gelcoat so there isn't much detail to see. The unpainted portion is the top of the stringer - it runs down about 8" and is blended into the hull before it steps down directly to the bilge. I'm sorry I don't have anything better.



In other news, I finished installing a new thru-hull and seacock, and a new bilge pump. The final (aft) deck section was installed and the deck edges were glassed up onto the liner.



This is a birds-eye view of the same stringer section mentioned above.







Thanks,
Paul

[RickK]

Did you squirt some glue (thickened resin) up behind the liner on the sides? The liner usually isn't glued very effectively to the hull side and you tied into that. Hopefully you glued the floor to the stringers well, so that will keep everything tied together.

[pwh70]

Did you squirt some glue (thickened resin) up behind the liner on the sides? The liner usually isn't glued very effectively to the hull side and you tied into that. Hopefully you glued the floor to the stringers well, so that will keep everything tied together.

No, I didn't do that. The previous 3(!) decks were tied in similarly to only the liner, so hopefully there won't be any issues. Yes, the deck is glued and screwed into the stringers and all bulkheads and reinforcements, and tied into the transom and foredeck (which is newly reinforced with two bulkheads that are attached directly to the hull). It should be pretty sturdy (I hope!)

Here it is fully glassed over, today.



Thanks for looking - Paul

[RickK]

Hope so too.

[larro]

Paul, thanks for answering my question, I have a similar issue with my 20 Osprey, the stringer was cracked from the gas tank coming loose and wearing on it. I love the leaning post, Did someone local make that? please keep the progress reports coming!
Larro