1972 191 Rebuild

[RickK]

This is how I ran mine. It takes quite a bit of for planning because you have a lot of stuff coming out of the console and it won't all fit in one pipe. I decided that I needed a place to bring the "stuff" up through the floor in a water protected place. I designed and built cabinets that sit in each corner in the aft, so I needed to run the pipes to the corners - you may not need to do this. Here is the start of the layout https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg106490#msg106490

For me the throttle and shifter cables are the worst for making transitions so I needed to add 3" 45s for the cable to make it through. https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg107047#msg107047

https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg126879#msg126879

[tylertarpon10]

Got the stringers 90% fiberglassed and done.


Used some bonding putty and some PVC board as tank supports. I will put neoprene rubber with 3M adhesive on these for the tank to rest on.


Added another bulkhead to close off the fuel tank compartment.



Waiting for my fuel hose and vent hose to arrive. This is currently how I have my rigging all dry fit and mocked up. The white 3inch pipe is for throttle cables and steering. The grey PVC conduit tube I used 1 & 1/2 inch going toward the back will be for the fuel pickup and electrical wires.
The grey PVC conduit tube heading toward the front under the casting deck will be for electrical wires for nav lights, speakers, etc.



The fuel intake hose will go through the middle port side stringer right by the intake on the tank.



I plan on making this a simple boat and have a removable/mobile livewell and simple electronics but adding more later down the road. Before I begin doing the deck I wanted to see what else I may need to add or plan for before I get the floor bonded down?

I went and got four 3/4 inch Nidacore honey comb panels to start preparing and measuring my deck.
My only questions for this process is how are most people laying their panels across the stringers?

I am not sure if I should span them length wise and have the joints meet on top of the middle stringers OR lay them horizontally?

My layup schedule for the Nidacore is bottom side a layer of 1708 and top side a layer of 1708 and a layer of 3/4 ounce CSM.

[Nates 86 200]

I laid   3  sheets of nida core horizontally on my 200 with 2 layers of 1708 top and bottom . Solid as a rock. I also put down a layer of peel ply on the top last layer to help reduce fairing time. It seemed to work pretty good.

[RickK]

Nice clean work Tyler 

[tylertarpon10]

Found an awesome tower and leaning post that pair nicely together. This tower with a few modifications from my local welder will allow me to utilize the original console from the boat. I plan on shortening the back legs to match the front and have it flush to the floor. Will be a nice half tower!


The original console and the tower is wider than the center stringers however.



Was able to cut out my main deck out up to the start of the casting deck from my nidacore honeycomb panels.


Got my fuel tank coffin and all of the below deck compartments all bilge coated. I will be planning on installing my fuel tank and getting the hoses installed next.




Going forward, Having the tower and leaning post I am unsure how to go about getting these mounted in the future. I know that these honeycomb panels are not great at holding screws. What do you guys recommend I do to keep these from ripping out of the floor or crushing the honeycomb core?

[RickK]

I would cut a section out of the console front to back to make it narrower to fit on the stringer tops, then glass the two sides together. As for the Tower mounting, I would fab some boxes that are as tall as the stringers plus nidacore and glass them to the hull bottom and stringer sides (sorry about your bilge cote). I would make the tops extra thick (maybe 6 layers of 1708) and drill some threaded inserts into them so you can bolt the tower to them. You then notch the nidacore around the boxes and glass the nidacore to the boxes with the top layer of glass you were going to lam onto the sole. Now the tower should be attached securely to the boat, not just the sole.
Here is what I used to attach the tank lid and also the leaning post to my boat
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg114773#msg114773

For the console I made some fiberglass angles and through bolted them through the tank lid. I then found some T-nuts and drilled holes for them to sit in.

[dbiscayne]

I like RikK's idea, just want to point out that if you do it that way be sure to make the boxes where they are glassed to the hull bottom bigger/longer vs smaller. The idea being that you don't want to create a point load or hard spot on the hull that could eventually lead to the hull tearing along the line of the box. The glass between the stringers does move up & down a little, have seen more than one hull 'tear' along a stringer line from too small of connection tab between stringer & hull.

[tylertarpon10]

Haven't posted on here in a few months, but I have still been grinding away at it! I post on my instagram since it is a little easier, If anyone would like to keep track of my daily updates you can. you can follow @Capt_Rupe.

[tylertarpon10]

Cut bilge access hatch and a hatch for the important stuff on the fuel tank.




Bonded the main deck down with little more than a gallon of bonding putty.
Then I used half gallon to fill the perimeter and then create a filet for tabbing. Tabbed the sides with a layer of 1.5 ounce CSM then two layers of 1708.


this is where I am currently. Built a casting deck with supports all from Nidacore. she is a tank and was bonded using the same technique as the main deck. Just finished glassing the front face to the main deck. Just need to sand and prep the original liner to bare glass before I can tab the casting deck In.



Once I get this tabbed I am going to then bring the cap back on the boat and figure out where i need to support it at.

[RickK]

Making good progress