1972 191 Rebuild

[RickK]

@tylertarpon10 - I had the same thing happen when I did my transom. I had a 3/8" inward bow. Couldn't do anything about it so continued on.

[umecheme]

Nice to see another 19-1 rebuild!  I haven't been on here in the better part of a year.  Glad I made it back to see this one in progress. Bringing back lots of memories.  Guess I need to get back to work on mine....

[tylertarpon10]

Life sure does get in the way to slow progress but one step at a time!

Did a bunch of test fitting of the transom core and when I put it in with just two small clamps, the outer skin inward bow was corrected and nearly level.


It took awhile to get the core to sit just right since the fillets and the layers from the skin changed how it sat. I had to angle my cuts around the perimeter of it and seemed to fix that problem. I am not too worried about a small gap between the edge since I will be putting a thick fillet to bed it once it goes in.


Went back and forth on ways to clamp the core to the outer skin and liked this one method I saw somewhere since it did not require drilling holes through the brand-new skin and core.  However, I am a little skeptical to see if these will actually apply enough pressure on the distal end.

This is what I tried to copy.

[tylertarpon10]

Finally found a Moeller 35-gal gas tank in stock and went this route since I did not want to go down the metal custom tank route.

Since this tank does not sit completely within the stringers I am using Tampa Bay Mikes Idea with the 5x5 fence posts and going to cut them in half.


Still figuring out how I should make the tank coffin or tank supports underneath.

I also plan on placing the tank right behind the bow bulkhead almost center of the hull below the console area.
I have seen some 191s cut that bulkhead out completely and place the tank more forward under the casting deck. Does Having it where it is in the picture cause issues with weight/ balance or will it be fine? Id hate to cut out the large bulkhead in front.

[tylertarpon10]

[dbiscayne]

I think I've got the same tank, ended up getting the fittings from Moeller so that I could switch the location of the fuel pickup fitting and vent fitting. Placed my tank in the boat with the fill and vent at the front under the console, and the fuel pickup at the back/low end of the tank.

[tylertarpon10]

@dbiscayne Do you have a picture from when you changed the locations? I may do that as well when I get to that point.

Got the core bonded in this weekend. Went through an entire gallon of bonding putty. I made some peanut butter and filled some of the bottoms after it was clamped. I still need to fill out the remainder of the perimeter on the sides of the core when I get some more putty or cabosil.


If I were to do this again I probably would have just drilled 8 holes through the core and skin and pulled it in that way. I feel I would get better and even bottom pressure.

[RickK]

Yeah, I think everyone that applies the clamping the way you did (including me) had after thoughts on this approach.  The clamps you made will do the job and the result will outlast you.

[dbiscayne]

when I moved the fittings on my tank I had to get the 4 items below, check Moellers website for more information www.moellermarine.com
some of the tank fittings have a hex head that look like they unscrew from the tank but they don't, they just swivel.
the anti siphon valve #2 screws into the withdrawal fitting #1 for the fuel supply.
#3 & #4 were for the vent fitting.

#1 Moeller Aluminum Withdrawal for Tanks, PL3 part on Moeller's site. Hose gets trimmed to required length.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MT95T6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

#2 Seachoice Anti-Siphon Valve, 1/4 In. NPT, 3/8 In. Hose, Aluminum, Meets USCG Regulations,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IZKB36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

#3 ICT Billet 5/8 to 1/2 Inch Hose Barb Splice Coupler, so that I could run 5/8" vent line from the tank fitting.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084KTJ9RD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

#4 Billet Straight 1/4" NPT Pipe to 1/2" .500" Hose Barb Fitting Bare Aluminum AN840-08-04A. Used for the vent fitting.
I could not find a 1/4" NPT fitting with 5/8" Hose Barb anywhere, has to be same material it's screwing into or you'll get corrosion issues. If you do find one with a 5/8 barb you don't need #3 above.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSM3Z68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Or you can source some of the stuff straight from Moeller
https://www.moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/replacement-parts-permanent-fuel-tanks/

link to the 35 gal tank schematic
https://www.moellermarine.com/moeller-marine/fuel-containment/35-gallon-permanent-below-deck-boat-fuel-tank-032535/

[dbiscayne]

the schematic shows a 3/8 NPT fitting at the vent, mine was 1/4 might want to check your tank fittings before ordering parts. Both the fuel delivery and the vent fittings in my tank were the same size.

[tylertarpon10]

Thank you for links and insight!

Over the weekend finished up the transom and tabbed the core to the hull sides.



Went with 2 layers of 1708 and took about a gallon of resin to wet out. Very happy with it and has little to no air bubbles.

[dbiscayne]

Lookin Good!
One thing I found helpful when dealing with 1708, at least for the long narrow strips I used to cover the tops of the stringers and long tab pieces, was the following;
lay out the 1708 woven side down on a big work table then almost completely wet out the mat side.
roll the piece up and let it sit for a few minutes, get another piece done in the mean time.
put a very light coat of resin on the boat surface to be glassed.
take the rolled up piece and bring to the boat, very carefully unroll it taking care not to stretch the glass. It'll stretch a little if you pull to hard. This should be done within 15-20 minutes of initially putting resin on the glass, check it once in a while it'll heat up when it gets close to the resin kicking off gotta work fast or with smaller pieces.

[tylertarpon10]

Been grinding away.
attached the stringers to the transom with homemade forms.


Found out my tank was not going to work with the stringers even raising the deck 3 inches, so I modified them.
I cut them so that it goes straight down that way the entire tank can sit lower.




Now the tank sits perfectly between them with plenty of room to clear the deck.

[tylertarpon10]

Much more room for expansion as well as fill hoses, rigging tubes etc.

[tylertarpon10]

I have begun glassing the fence posts to the stringers and foam filled the other ones. I drilled the limber holes for drainage in the middle stringers which is ready for a pipe and glass.


I put three layers of 1708 on the tops and majority of the sides and its solid. I still need to tab them to the hull. I may add one finaly layer over everything after but not sure yet.


Port stringer back filled and cut to level, The side stringers are solid and wide.


Going to be cutting all foam level and backfilling the inside of the stringers with foam. Once level I will tab them to the hull sides.


I am starting to plan on how to run rigging/ chase tubes for fuel lines, fuel pickup, electrical wires, etc. I plan on using 3 inch PVC pipe with 45 degree elbows but I am not sure on how I should lay it out. Anyone have any suggestions and how to run/place the pipes?