1974' Aquasport 240 CC Rebuild

[Duffy1470]

Itch much? I wish I had pulled the liner out whole. Very nice

[Ulysses485]

Itch much? I wish I had pulled the liner out whole. Very nice

Pulling the liner is definitely the way to go IMO. Having a liner is going to really help me with the finish. However, I am not sure how coring the hullsides is going to work out considering it will add thickness.

The itch + cooler evenings + compressed air shower + lathered up loofa deep scrub in the shower is the way to go. LOL!! I think my tolerance to the glass is the only way I am able to tolerate all these projects!

[Duffy1470]

That's going to be tough to core the hull sides and keep the liner. I guess it depends on how thick the coring is, whether the coring goes to the top of the hull ( to screw the cap into) and how much the liner will flex. Seems like it could be done.

[Ulysses485]

That's going to be tough to core the hull sides and keep the liner. I guess it depends on how thick the coring is, whether the coring goes to the top of the hull ( to screw the cap into) and how much the liner will flex. Seems like it could be done.

The scrimmed and scored divinycell core will stop short of the top of the hullside. There will be either 2'' of built up glass or another core material (i've seen mat/core-mat/mat/core-mat/mat used)  that will hold screws for cap/rubrail. On second thought, I probably need to start with the 2'' so i dont make a mess on top of the hullside coring. I will probably test fit the liner panels when I get things finished up.

SEE BELOW EXAMPLE... NOT MY BOAT OR PHOTO:

[Duffy1470]

That's pretty bad arse. Do it.

[Ulysses485]

That's pretty bad arse. Do it.

No Doubt! Its NOT a matter of if, but a matter of HOW!  I met a boat building last year that I picked up the coring materials from. He walked me around some large cat style racing hulls and it was extremely impressive how strong and stiff the hullsides become with coring materials in them.

[Ulysses485]

As it turns out, I had TERRIBLE contact from the Coosa to the exterior skin. I made the mistake of rushing to bed the coosa in the coring compound right after two (2) large 1708 glass layups after MANY hours. It was in the late evening/early morning and knew I should have waiting till another day. Oh well, everything is repairable with fiberglass, right? Just throw more $$$$ at it. HAHAHA

After much thought of a repair and having to fill the void with Arjay transom pour, I decided to pry it off and redo it again. Thankfully, it had very little contact (only at the top) and after cutting the fillets at the edges with a multipurpose blade, it let go fairly easy using a pry bar stuck in the corner pocket.

Pictures AFTER Coosa was pried off:

[Ulysses485]

Chipped most all the cured Arjay bonding compound off the coosa and transom over the weekend. Used a heavy duty paint scraper and hammer. Grinded all the rest smooth and came up with some better ideas to clamp/pinch the coosa into the transom skin.

[Ulysses485]

I guess I missed the photos from grinding all the core bond off the Coosa board and the inner side of the outside transom skin. I did decide to laminate the inner skin of the Coosa before I bedded it in to save my back a little. That way I can tab in the bottom and sides with a couples and layers and just one full layer to tie is all together. It was solid before and now its solid as a rock.

Three (3) layers of 1708, trimmed/sanded with 40 grit and set in place. I will have to fair the inside with thickened resin to get a flatter surface so i don't end up with voids.

Here is a photo dump from this past weekend.

[Duffy1470]

Very nice. Thick. Good.

[RickK]

Lookin' good Ulysses    Did I read on a previous post that you're going to pour the rest of the transom? Looks like you have a nice tight fit to contain the pour.

[Ulysses485]

Very nice. Thick. Good.

Yeah it should be pretty stout when its all put together! Looking forward to being done with this transom, its been a long time coming.

Lookin' good Ulysses    Did I read on a previous post that you're going to pour the rest of the transom? Looks like you have a nice tight fit to contain the pour.

When I set the Coosa transom the first time, I did plan to use Arjay 6011 pour transom in the corners. Plans changed when I ripped it back out. Pour ceramic would have been nice for screwing things into like trim tabs but it would have added unnecessary weight and cost.

Since de-bonding the core,  the plan is to fill the corners will a high density pourable foam (probably 6lb just to be on the safe side). I may have to tabb in the sides to prevent any push out from the pressures of the expanding foam (it will also be bonded to the center outer skin at that point as well). See below photo what I am up against (I still haven't trimmed as that will be one straight line cut across the back of the transom when finished. The cap will be bonded to top of transom and tabbed to the underside for additional structure).

[Ulysses485]

Its time to finish and put this 240 back together!! Good Weather is coming! Got the outer skin leveled out and reset the Coosa back in and a layer of 1808 tabbed in. This time I used thickened resin trolled with a layer of 3/4oz matt on each side (transom skin & inside of Coosa). I used the freezer bag method it was still messy but worked out well.

[RickK]

That'll be solid.

[Ulysses485]

That'll be solid.

I checked it last night and it sure did kick off solid! It will be rock solid and probably the only 240 (that I have seen) that will have cored hullsides (3/8'' scrimmed and scoredDivinycell)....just like I did the flatty (@1/4'').

I will knock down sides and layup a 3ft piece of 1708 and overlap transom a few inches to get ready to core the sides and tie the stringers back into the transom. Not sure how I want to setup the knees for extra transom. I want to make sure I don't block myself from accessing the motor mount bolts for the porta bracket once there is a transom livewell installed etc.

Anyone know what the magic # is for mounting height of a 21'' setback porta bracket? Ill be looking into this soon and might even drill the holes to know what obstacles I have.